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Applying Veneer over box joint MDF?

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Forum topic by soilarch posted 01-14-2011 06:20 AM 3063 views 1 time favorited 9 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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soilarch

5 posts in 2158 days


01-14-2011 06:20 AM

I’m making a box out of 1/2” mdf for a sharpening machine. I plan on covering it in veneer. Have I screwed the pooch by using box joints? They are not perfect by a long long shot. While I sit here and look at the thing the thought occurs to me that I’ll need to use extra glue, wood putty, or something to fill in the tiny voids after I glue it up. (Think mudding drywall)

Can that be done? I’m using plain old titebond.

P.S. this site is responsible for me stepping out on the limb and trying veneers….and wood dyes for the first time.

-- Micah 6:8


9 replies so far

View Todd A. Clippinger's profile

Todd A. Clippinger

8901 posts in 3567 days


#1 posted 01-14-2011 06:39 AM

As I understand it, you have used box joints and want to cover them entirely with veneer?

Being that the substrate is MDF if will not be an issue because it is dimensionally stable.

If you feel that the joints are uneven or have voids, do what any pro contractor does. Fill the voids with Bondo body putty (sold in the big box stores along with other wood putty) and sand flat. No problem-

Do not use the drywall mud as you suggested.

One way to apply veneer by using TiteBond is to paint both surfaces with an even coat and let dry. Then apply the veneer with an iron. I use a shop towel, that is a blue paper towel, in between the iron and the veneer. The veneer should be ironed on within a couple hours of applying the glue for best results.

I do not like using contact cement for applying veneer because it tends to creep and crack over time.

-- Todd A. Clippinger, Montana, http://americancraftsmanworkshop.com

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Todd A. Clippinger

8901 posts in 3567 days


#2 posted 01-14-2011 06:41 AM

Oh, one more thing; if this site has prompted you to step out on a limb with your woodworking, then it has done it’s job:)

-- Todd A. Clippinger, Montana, http://americancraftsmanworkshop.com

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soilarch

5 posts in 2158 days


#3 posted 01-14-2011 06:55 AM

Wow, though I’m mechanically inclined I doubt I ever would have thought to let the glue dry and use it as an iron on.

Yes, basically I was wondering what type of filler “spackling” the glue would work with. I’ll likely try you iron-on titebond routine out on some scraps as I’m limited on space and equipment. (Put it this way, I finally bought a table saw a couple months ago and I’m in heaven…”Hey, look! A straight line, a perfectly straight line!!!”

Thank You. I’ll make it a point to post some pics of the finished piece. Flamed maple, hopefully dyed a dark reddish orange, and some type of burl or ebony accent stripe(I bought a variety pack of veneers at woodcrafters.) With 4 ugly spinning disks on top to sharpen with of course.

-- Micah 6:8

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cabmaker

1507 posts in 2277 days


#4 posted 01-14-2011 07:35 AM

Since your going to venier it why the box joints. You probably don t want to back up now. You can use most any type wood filler if you think you need it. I cant see your joints so I dont know how good or bad they are. Are you cutting your own venier? Either way I personally have had great success with sprayable contact cement for the past thirty yrs. anyway. As mentioned above bondo will work but may cause you some undue labor and if not prepped properly may telegraph thru your venier unless it is 3/32 or thicker. Enjoy

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soilarch

5 posts in 2158 days


#5 posted 01-14-2011 08:34 PM

I figured box joints would be the strongest. I realize it may not make much difference now. The reason I’m building this is because my truck and most of my sharpening equipment got stolen about 3 weeks ago. Due to that I don’t have my veneer caliper/micrometer to measure the veneer. It’s the run-of-the-mill stuff they have at woodcrafters in the bags of 12” length. The piece will be inside but must be picked up and handled a lot, it will have climate variations but I will not be leaving it in my truck during any extreme temps.

I realize I’m asking a lot of the veneer considering it’s application and my experience with it, but these machines aren’t cheap to build, insane to purchase, my customers (hair stylists) will see it in their salons, and it’s the backbone of my operations….....so it needs to look good.

I’ve had a very warm welcome here on my profile. Thanks to all, and if there’s any more advice I am certainly all ears, er um…eyes.

-- Micah 6:8

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soilarch

5 posts in 2158 days


#6 posted 02-03-2011 07:37 AM

Well, you all have gotten me on my way down a slippery slope. Far, very far from perfect but here’s the first side. Don’t know how dark I’m going to dye it just yet, but I bought black, yellow and red transtint and have practically memorized the “2 dye 4” blog by trifern. I’m thinking the same thing left a little darker.

A big thank you to all.

-- Micah 6:8

View GaryK's profile

GaryK

10262 posts in 3456 days


#7 posted 02-03-2011 08:09 AM

Looks good. Now your hooked!

-- Gary - Never pass up the opportunity to make a mistake look like you planned it that way - Tyler, TX

View Lee A. Jesberger's profile

Lee A. Jesberger

6821 posts in 3447 days


#8 posted 02-06-2011 09:26 PM

Great job with the veneer.

Be careful, it can be very addictive!

Lee

-- by Lee A. Jesberger http://www.prowoodworkingtips.com http://www.ezee-feed.com

View soilarch's profile

soilarch

5 posts in 2158 days


#9 posted 02-10-2011 12:58 AM

Update….plenty of mistakes…plenty left to do on wiring and what-nots. The wood portion of it is done though besides a bottom basetrim of purpleheart.

I did some test pieces of die…and it was waaaaaay above my pay-grade. Each day this machine isn’t up and running is another day I don’t make money so it was an easy decision.

-- Micah 6:8

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