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How to secure live edge slab to a steel base?

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Forum topic by ModernWoodWorkz posted 08-13-2017 11:43 PM 354 views 0 times favorited 4 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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ModernWoodWorkz

7 posts in 227 days


08-13-2017 11:43 PM

Hey guys. I wanted to ask how each of you are connecting a live edge slab to a steel base to account for expansion.

I’ve seen a couple photos from the internet but if anyone can lay down specific details it would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you in advance.


4 replies so far

View runswithscissors's profile

runswithscissors

2559 posts in 1860 days


#1 posted 08-14-2017 04:01 AM

I glued up a “slab” for a coffee table because I didn’t have wide enough boards. This was from a beech I’d taken down several years before. I made up legs with stretchers from 1 1/2” pipe. Instead of using pipe flanges (which seemed too big for the scale of the table) I welded square plates to the tops of the legs. When I first screwed them in place, a crack started forming very soon. So I filed the screw holes into an oblong shape and refastened, leaving the screws just snug enough to prevent wiggling, but not so tight as to prevent wood movement. The incipient crack then went away, and it has worked fine since.

The slab is not reinforced with an apron. This doesn’t seem to be a problem

-- I admit to being an adrenaline junky; fortunately, I'm very easily frightened

View jerryminer's profile

jerryminer

800 posts in 1277 days


#2 posted 08-14-2017 04:39 AM

Screws in slotted holes is my go-to solution.

-- Jerry, making sawdust professionally since 1976

View Loren's profile

Loren

9613 posts in 3483 days


#3 posted 08-14-2017 04:51 AM

The easiest approach imo is to attach two
battens with slotted screw holes to the
bottom of the slab. Then the batten ends
can be fastened to the base. The method
avoids making slotted screw holes in steel.

View William Shelley's profile

William Shelley

477 posts in 1305 days


#4 posted 08-14-2017 11:31 PM

Use a 3/4” NPT tap to tap a blind hole directly into the slab, if it’s thick enough. Assuming your ‘steel base’ is iron plumbing pipe.

-- Woodworking from an engineer's perspective

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