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Sanding odd shaped objects

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Forum topic by kellyintx posted 01-13-2011 12:03 AM 3975 views 0 times favorited 6 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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kellyintx

3 posts in 2324 days


01-13-2011 12:03 AM

I’ve have had a Legacy Wood Mill for a few months now and finally got a little Christmas money and bought some new router bits. My question is what do you sand the odd shaped parts with? I saw somewhere on the web a disk that was made to go in a drill press that was fuzzy and had a taper to it. It was yellow in color and was what some people were using but I can’t remember what it was called and Google is no help. If someone knows what I am talking about or if you have something better I’m open for suggestions. Thanks in advance.


6 replies so far

View TJ65's profile

TJ65

1358 posts in 2514 days


#1 posted 01-13-2011 06:54 AM

Well there are several ways you could sand those hard to get to places. If there isn’t a lot to do make suitable shaped sanding sticks from ice cream sticks (you can buy pkts of them) or use the harder style polystyrene packing material and cut that to shape.
Those discs you were talking about I think are called Scotchbrite Radial Bristle Discs. I have only a web site in Australia but you get to see them. I haven’t used them. Flap discs are another way and cheaper as you can then make your own using material backed sanding sheets. Or use the dremel

-- Theresa, https://sites.google.com/site/tmj65treasure/

View TopamaxSurvivor's profile

TopamaxSurvivor

17671 posts in 3140 days


#2 posted 01-13-2011 11:03 AM

You could make a formed sandiing block with some expoxy. Cover the profile you want to sand with some kitchen wrap like Cling. Mix up some epoxy and put a good size gob on, put a block for structural strenght that is somewhat to the form of the profile. When it is dry, you have a formed sanding block. Be carfeful not to let the epoxy edges wrap around, you may have a tough time getting it off your form.

-- Bob in WW ~ "some old things are lovely, warm still with life ... of the forgotten men who made them." - D.H. Lawrence

View Nomad62's profile

Nomad62

726 posts in 2422 days


#3 posted 01-13-2011 11:56 PM

Steel wool works well. A friend of mine with much more patience makes custom scrapers from old bandsaw blades that work incredibly well. Topamaxes idea is great!

-- Power tools put us ahead of the monkeys

View Stephen Mines's profile

Stephen Mines

225 posts in 2155 days


#4 posted 01-23-2011 05:01 AM

Of course method depends on the detail (and size) of the turning. A simple rope turning (or barley twist) can be sanded several ways:

1, This requires variable speed, best to set up on a lathe rather than the Legacy: adjust speed to suit (maybe 50 rpm, depends on piece) then attack the piece with sand paper in a fast, end to end motion, repeatedly until machine marks are erased; you can use progressively finer paper if necessary and hand protection if you’re doing a lot of it (I use welders gloves). . .and be VERY careful your hands don’t run into trouble at the head or tail stock.

2: On large rope turnings (6”-14” dia) I use an inflatable bag sander (from 3” to 8” dia) driven with a heavy duty flexible shaft from a 1 hp variable speed motor; the motor is mounted on a trolley that runs in a channel 4’ above the bed of the lathe and allows me to walk the length of the turning; inflate the sander with just a little air to adjust to the contour of the piece and keep it constantly in motion (rapid, back and forth). On these large pieces a seperate stroll down the lathe is necessary for each lead if they’re large. What with the weight of the bag sander and the torque of the flexible shaft you will soon be a contender for arm wrestling…it is hard, grueling work.

3. I saved the best method for last: concentrate on making clean, chatter free cuts. I have steady rests (usually made out of lengths of suitable size pvc that is cut lengthwise a little less than half round…the workpiece nestles in it) that ride on the saddle/carriage, operator side of the workpiece and I hold the workpiece against the steady with both hands while it is turning and being cut. Be super alert, those cutters don’t have to go to the dentist twice a year to be sharp, and your hands are pretty close to chaos. Rig a guard around the cutter if feasible.

This is specialty stuff, most turners will bring their turned pieces to a complex turner for the detailing, but if you have a Legacy you’re probably already hooked on spirals and twists! Good luck! Stephen

-- Stephen Mines (Saltmines@aol.com)

View Jim Finn's profile

Jim Finn

2412 posts in 2386 days


#5 posted 01-23-2011 06:00 AM

do a search for a “sanding Mop” That may work for you.

-- "You may have your PHD but I have my GED and my DD 214"

View racerglen's profile

racerglen

3112 posts in 2245 days


#6 posted 01-23-2011 12:46 PM

Other tools that are available are sanding drums and flap wheels. Both can be chucked in a drill press or hand drill, or a Dremel trype tool.
They are out there in various grits and sizes, some drum sanders have an inflateable centre, so a soft pressure alows you to follow a curve closer, while a higher pressure is for more of a staright line. The Scotchbrite pads are also available in many grits, from rip the rust of your garden hoe to the finest, a white pad that equates to the abrasive effect of a paper groscery bag, great for a final polish up on a finish.

-- Glen, B.C. Canada

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