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removing squeeze out from end grain cutting board

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Forum topic by toolie posted 08-13-2017 02:04 AM 550 views 0 times favorited 8 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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toolie

2094 posts in 2465 days


08-13-2017 02:04 AM

I’m going to try making end grain cutting boards. The first attempt is with construction pine just to see what kinds of issues are part of making these boards. Here are two pics of both sides of the first attempt.

I’ve already scraped off the almost dried squeeze out with a hand scraper and its time to plane them down, then crosscut and reassemble with the end grain up. But whats the word on titebond glue and planer blades? If the glue will adversely affect the planer blades, I could, instead, use my drum sander with 60 or 80 grit to clean off the glue prior to planing.

How have others dealt with this issue? Thanks.

-- there's a solution to every problem.......you just have to be willing to find it.


8 replies so far

View Rich's profile

Rich

1978 posts in 425 days


#1 posted 08-13-2017 02:34 AM

Since you have a drum sander, I’d use that. PVA glue won’t damage your planer blades, but once you get to the flattening of the end grain glue-up, you’ll want to use the sander, not the planer.

I’d recommend something like DAP Weldwood plastic resin glue though. It’ll stand up to moisture better than even Titebond III.

-- No matter how much you push the envelope, it'll still be stationery.

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toolie

2094 posts in 2465 days


#2 posted 08-19-2017 10:11 PM

here’s the finished product.

first cutting board of pine. just wanted to see what mistakes can be made so i screw up less when working with walnut, cherry and maple.

hopefully, these are going to be fun. Rich was right. flattening end grain first time out really didn’t go terribly well with the planer. really glad i have a drum sander.

-- there's a solution to every problem.......you just have to be willing to find it.

View Gilley23's profile

Gilley23

384 posts in 218 days


#3 posted 08-20-2017 12:56 AM

That looks really good! I like the mix of the different grain patterns.

View Slider20's profile

Slider20

119 posts in 357 days


#4 posted 08-20-2017 04:17 AM

Looks nice. I’ve had decent luck just chamfering the leading and trailing edges and putting it in the planer. However, I’ve only made end grain boards out of hard wood and they machine much better than soft woods. I use Titebond III and have a Dewalt DW735 with no ill effects on the blades.

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Srini

29 posts in 616 days


#5 posted 08-21-2017 03:11 PM

I am also trying on pine. My biggest challenge is how to glue up end final grain strips w/o them misaligned. I do not have drum sander.

Toolie, any advice here?

View ClammyBallz's profile

ClammyBallz

424 posts in 973 days


#6 posted 08-21-2017 03:48 PM



I d recommend something like DAP Weldwood plastic resin glue though.

You suggest using formaldehyde based glue on a cutting board?

View Rich's profile

Rich

1978 posts in 425 days


#7 posted 08-21-2017 04:09 PM


You suggest using formaldehyde based glue on a cutting board?

- ClammyBallz

Yep. I wouldn’t spread it on my toast, but once it’s cured it’s fine. Keep in mind too, we’re talking about glue line contact anyway. It’s not like it’s being used as a topcoat.

-- No matter how much you push the envelope, it'll still be stationery.

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toolie

2094 posts in 2465 days


#8 posted 08-21-2017 05:32 PM



I am also trying on pine. My biggest challenge is how to glue up end final grain strips w/o them misaligned. I do not have drum sander.

Toolie, any advice here?

- Srini

i had a similar problem with the board being square. regarding misalignment, you need a flat surface and an edge to register the strips against so the board is relatively square. thinking about fabricating a jig before moving into pricier hardwoods.

i planned on making the board a bit larger than final size and squared it up ona TS based crosscut jig.

-- there's a solution to every problem.......you just have to be willing to find it.

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