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Forum topic by Quailguy posted 08-11-2017 11:28 PM 903 views 0 times favorited 22 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Quailguy

49 posts in 1025 days


08-11-2017 11:28 PM

I’ve been asked to inlay a challenge coin into the stock of a rifle for a charity event. My idea is to drill the stock with a Forstner bit of the same diameter as the coin and have the coin flush with the stock. Any ideas on how to glue the coin in? I assume an epoxy, but I see there are several different types depending on application.

Thanks in advance
Quailguy


22 replies so far

View woodbutcherbynight's profile

woodbutcherbynight

3635 posts in 2242 days


#1 posted 08-12-2017 01:59 AM

The epoxy will work. I have done this in the past on wear items like desks and chair backs. Something to keep in mind. While it may be dry to to touch it needs cure time to complete the process. Install it and leave it sit for several days to insure a good long lasting bond.

-- Live to tell the stories, they sound better that way.

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Loren

9606 posts in 3481 days


#2 posted 08-12-2017 02:14 AM

I would use whatever epoxy I had on
hand. If you need to buy some, J-B Weld
is a good choice for general use.

That’s not a stress area so any general
use epoxy should be ok.

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Quailguy

49 posts in 1025 days


#3 posted 08-12-2017 02:48 AM

Hey, thanks you guys! I assume, based on your opinion of epoxy, that I don’t need to rough up the glue side. This will an easier project than I first thought.
Thanks again
Quailguy

View GR8HUNTER's profile

GR8HUNTER

2951 posts in 546 days


#4 posted 08-12-2017 02:52 AM

I like THIS :<))

-- Tony Reinholds,Pa. REMEMBER TO ALWAYS HAVE FUN

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Rick_M

10606 posts in 2214 days


#5 posted 08-12-2017 03:00 AM

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Kelly

1821 posts in 2778 days


#6 posted 08-12-2017 04:34 AM

For that, it would seem even a dollop of silicone would work. It’d sure be easier to clean off, if need ever arose.

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Rich

1973 posts in 423 days


#7 posted 08-12-2017 04:49 AM



Helpful reference
http://thistothat.com/

- Rick M

That’s a winner I just bookmarked. Thanks Rick.

-- No matter how much you push the envelope, it'll still be stationery.

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Quailguy

49 posts in 1025 days


#8 posted 08-12-2017 05:06 AM

I think You’ve got it figured out for me. Appreciate the glue reference site, I’ll use it for everything.
Thanks again to all who helped out.

View Binn's profile

Binn

93 posts in 2787 days


#9 posted 08-12-2017 06:03 AM

Quailguy,

I would recommend using a dab of Locktite PL3 urethane adhesive , it will glue anything. I use it when I need a strong glue, in the past I glued a 6×6 post to a cement walkway for some ext. stairs. Those post are still there where I installed them. Home Depot sells it in a tube, they have the PL8 or PL3, get the PL3. I had a ceramic mug that the handle got broken off, so I made a handle out of cypress wood and glued it on the side of the mug and it has never moved, that mug is my favorite coffee mug, lol. Hope this will work for you!.

-- Barry, Louisiana

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splintergroup

1687 posts in 1056 days


#10 posted 08-12-2017 02:17 PM

Epoxy would be my choice. A fellow at a wood store mentioned to me he uses “Go” glue (amazon has it). He uses it to attach skins to metal bottle openers without rivets.

Your application is low stress so any of the many mentioned options would be adequate.

View josephf's profile

josephf

171 posts in 1930 days


#11 posted 08-12-2017 05:37 PM

I have tried several different epoxy’s .including jb weld for glue sticking metal to wood .For instance magnets to wood .they fail general after awhile. the coin isn’t under any load so it is different . that comment about using silicone made me laugh .though i have had to remove flashing silconed to wood before and that stuff was seriously stuborn .
i was picking up epoxy recently to adhere a metal pipe into a post for a client . i needed alot .guy at supply house said something that made me think .He pointed out pl premium wood adhesive says on the label for wood to metal ,but none of the epoxy he cared actual said for metal to wood .
This thred has me thinking .Maybe epoxy isn’t so great .smells and cost alot .Or is it the type of epoxy .

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Quailguy

49 posts in 1025 days


#12 posted 08-12-2017 06:48 PM

It is unlikely this .22 rifle will spend much time at the range as it is being engraved along with the challenge coin, but who knows. If it just sits in someone’s gun safe, double sided tape would probably work. I’m thinking any or all of everyone’s suggestions will be more than adequate. I’ll post pictures when its all done.

Thanks to all

View msinc's profile

msinc

98 posts in 337 days


#13 posted 08-12-2017 09:03 PM

I have a few suggestions…I have been doing gunsmith work for 37 years and this might be helpful. First off, I would suggest that you at least try the Forstner bit in a piece of scrap wood BEFORE you gunch up the stock and find that it cut slightly too big. The idea that you have the perfect sized bit to some random sized coin and it’s going to jump right in the area you have bored out and fit properly is probably not going to happen. It might appear to be the right size, but you need to see what it leaves in the wood when done cutting, not what the bit measures. It needs to fit very close to look and be right.
Second, I routinely glue a lot of wood and metal, not just on guns but many projects. I would suggest that you use some type of transparent epoxy and not the JB Weld or any other opaque “weld” type. The transparent epoxies seem like to me that they have the ability to actually soak into the wood some and produce a possibly better hold. One other thing I would highly suggest is that you not only rough up the back side of the coin thing, but you also degrease it just prior to gluing it in. It also helps to soak into the wood if you heat {maybe “warm up” is a better way to say it} the epoxy some just prior to gluing. This will also help it to kick off and cure quicker.
As to the “other way” to inlet this coin into the stock….draw a very close line around it and use a very sharp small chisel to cut away the wood. Cut only in towards the middle, never outward towards the line you have drawn. Take your time and go easy. A little at a time while taking your time can mean the difference between ending up with a nice job or looking for a bigger coin or possibly even another stock for the rifle!!! Good luck.

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Quailguy

49 posts in 1025 days


#14 posted 08-12-2017 09:19 PM

That makes perfect sense. I know the coin diameter is 1.75”, still waiting to get the actual coin for the thickness. I’m not a carver, so making the smooth round edge will my challenge. I was given a practice stock, so I will be able to try at least 2 times before I do the real thing. Would you recommend a curved chisel or a 1/8” – 1/4” flat chisel? Those 2 I have on hand. It’s going into a birch Ruger 10/22 stock, so it’s not the end of the world to get a new one if necessary. I have about 6 weeks to complete it, so I have time to fix any mistakes. The other issue is the stock is curved so the horizontal edges with be slightly deeper. The guy says that is not an issue for him.

This Forum always has great information from very knowledgeable folks!

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patcollins

1605 posts in 2699 days


#15 posted 08-12-2017 09:25 PM

I would use shoo-goo to affix metal to wood.

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