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Forum topic by theshed posted 08-11-2017 12:26 AM 471 views 0 times favorited 12 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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theshed

10 posts in 70 days


08-11-2017 12:26 AM

Has anyone had any experience with the Ridgid 3612 contractors saw. I see one for sale for $300.00 on Craiglist.


12 replies so far

View toolie's profile

toolie

2088 posts in 2407 days


#1 posted 08-11-2017 12:44 AM

if its in decent shape, run, don’t walk, to buy it. IMHO, probably the best 10” contractor saw ever made. and the gray colored Ridgids that were made in the USA by Emerson Electric are guaranteed for life against manufacturing defects regardless of ownership. a really terrific 10”, CI, dual voltage, 1.5hp table saw with a Herc-u-lift, the best mobile base ever attached to a power tool.

-- there's a solution to every problem.......you just have to be willing to find it.

View knotscott's profile

knotscott

7725 posts in 3154 days


#2 posted 08-11-2017 04:48 PM

Nice saw with a good fence at a decent price if in good shape. Can’t hurt to offer $250 and go from there. This is a big step up from a portable jobsite saw.

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

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syenefarmer

463 posts in 2859 days


#3 posted 08-11-2017 11:15 PM

What toolie said x 2.

View ChefHDAN's profile

ChefHDAN

968 posts in 2628 days


#4 posted 08-12-2017 01:44 PM

I have had the 3612 for over 12 years, it’s my first TS and I’ve learned an amazing amount over the years and have yet to find a task it will not do. Mine was a floor model being sold off in the great HD Grey Tool Sell off. I paid $300 and the rails were bent, so the tool manager opened a new 3650 and gave me the fence and rails from it, which work fine if not perhaps a bit better.

On my saw, seen here you can see a few of the mods I’ve made.
a) changed mobile base to a Herc-U-Lift, (old one now on jointer)
b) added a 3/4” melamine ply with a maple wrap to the right side wing for my router. The rectangle brace is just held in place by tension when I lower the saw from the herc-u-lift.
c) used tempered hard board and adhesive velcro to close the back with 3 pieces, has to come off though for bevels
d) 4” DC fitting to bottom of saw
e) and of course, crosscut sled, panel sled, aux / sac fence, fingerjoint sled, miter sled, miter spline sled etc etc

I kow there are better saws out there but for the money and the amount of time I get to play with it I’m very happy and would agree first bid at $250 and see what else might be being sold along with it blades sleds throat plates etc.

Good luck

-- I've decided 1 mistake is really 2 opportunities to learn.. learn how to fix it... and learn how to not repeat it

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theshed

10 posts in 70 days


#5 posted 08-12-2017 11:16 PM

Did not buy the saw mentioned earlier, but found another one, in better shape for $250.

ChefHDAN – took a look at your saw, awesome. Really like the router table attachment. I plan on doing the same with my Rockler router table.

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toolie

2088 posts in 2407 days


#6 posted 08-13-2017 02:06 AM



Did not buy the saw mentioned earlier, but found another one, in better shape for $250.

ChefHDAN – took a look at your saw, awesome. Really like the router table attachment. I plan on doing the same with my Rockler router table.

- theshed

great. please post some pics when you get the saw. if properly maintained, that saw will accommodate anything you want to do outside of a production environment.

-- there's a solution to every problem.......you just have to be willing to find it.

View ChefHDAN's profile

ChefHDAN

968 posts in 2628 days


#7 posted 08-13-2017 11:09 AM



Did not buy the saw mentioned earlier, but found another one, in better shape for $250.
- theshed

Another 3612?

-- I've decided 1 mistake is really 2 opportunities to learn.. learn how to fix it... and learn how to not repeat it

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theshed

10 posts in 70 days


#8 posted 08-13-2017 11:22 AM

Yes, will pick up this coming wednesday. Ironic, this is the first saw I saw when I started looking, came around again, made on offer, he took it. He also has an Excalabar slider for sale. He was trying to sell the saw and slider as a package. I did not want the slider. Now he broke them apart and selling individually.

Work started on my shed (what I call my workshop). Excavator dug trenches yesterday for footings, stone to go in today I hope. Will post pictures as we move along. 14×22 size. adding as a third stall garage.

View harriw's profile

harriw

128 posts in 1986 days


#9 posted 08-14-2017 03:41 AM

I bought my 3612 about 5 years ago. If I remember right, they were asking $350 or maybe $400… claimed they bought it from a neighbor who “bought it new for $1000” or something crazy like that, they’d never even used it. I wrote them a polite email explaining I was very interested (that was THE saw I’d been searching for for months), but they were mis-informed as to its value (I provided links, etc.), and I’d be happy to come buy it if/when they were willing to come down. A month or 2 went by, and I got an email out of the blue asking if I was still interested….. I drove an hour to get it, paid $300, and was thrilled to have it (I knew I’d overpaid, but as I said this was the saw I’d been looking for, and I was willing to pay to get it).

I’ve been extremely happy with it since. I’ve found that the extruded aluminum fence has a bit of a wiggle to it (somewhere between .003 to .005” out in some places). But that really doesn’t make any difference. The arbor has a touch of run-out too, but it hasn’t been a problem. Love the 36” rip capacity (it’s actually more like 37 or 38” actually). No idea why people ever bought the 2424 new… makes so much more sense to shift it all over.

Adding dust collection is quite straight forward. Home-made zero-clearance inserts are simple to make. The Hercu-lift is fantastic. Outfeed tables can be a bit tricky, but I finally built a free-standing version that just sits behind the saw and works flawlessly. I know it’s technically an “under-powered” saw, but it has no problem spinning an 8” dado set (mine is an Oschlun). I use thin-kerf Freud blades on it (a premier fusion for cross-cutting and thin ripping, and a 24-tooth rip blade for heavy rips), with excellent results.

Just a fantastic saw. Doesn’t get any better for a contractor saw.

-- Bill - Western NY

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theshed

10 posts in 70 days


#10 posted 08-15-2017 09:37 AM

As I am in the planning stage of setting up my shop. I am curious what the best dust collector setup is for the Ridgid 3612 table saw?

View syenefarmer's profile

syenefarmer

463 posts in 2859 days


#11 posted 08-15-2017 06:01 PM

Here’s what I did to mine. I closed off the back of the saw using two pieces of 1/4” hardboard. I epoxied some rare earth magnets to the hardboard to hold it to the back of the saw. You will have to do some cut-outs to the hardboard to accommodate the belt, motor mount posts and blade guard assembly post. Pretty basic and I do have to remove one side when I want to do bevel cuts but overall effective. Next I took a piece of 1/2” plywood and cut out a piece the size of the bottom of the saw or slightly smaller. Then I cut-out a hole in the center of the piece and mounted a PVC toilet flange. If you the smaller route, slide the piece into the cavity of the underside of the saw. If you go the larger sized route, install the plywood between the saws bottom and the saw stand. I hooked a 4” dust hose to the toilet flange and hooked that up to my DC. If I were to do that part over again I would have run some 4” PVC pipe straight down from the closet flange and then a 90° street elbow before hooking up the dust hose.

My version is by no means the best way for dust collection with this saw but it is pretty efficient. My guess is that I probably capture between 95-98 of the sawdust I produce. Every now and then I do have to remove the throat plate and vacuum out the cavity of the inside of the saw but that’s to be expected I think.

Enjoy you saw as I know you will be very happy with it.

View ChefHDAN's profile

ChefHDAN

968 posts in 2628 days


#12 posted 08-21-2017 06:42 PM

I’ve got the same as described by farmer, with the addition of sealing the interior space where possible with caulking and using Velcro to attach a fairly heavy strip of leather over the front slot for the height wheel. I purchased a plastic fitting here and then cut a 4” flex hose to exit to the back with about 6” hanging past the bottom brace of the lift so that I can attach to a 10’ hose to the DC. I’m using fas-lock quick fittings but would use the Rockler ones if I do it over. Biggest dust issue I have is when taking small slices because the sawdust gets away from the throat plate but I just can’t think of a mobile portable way to get an overarm collection set up with the way I use my shop and store everything.

-- I've decided 1 mistake is really 2 opportunities to learn.. learn how to fix it... and learn how to not repeat it

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