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Forum topic by jim_s posted 08-08-2017 05:46 PM 364 views 0 times favorited 6 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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jim_s

3 posts in 125 days


08-08-2017 05:46 PM

I am having a blade tracking problem with my Grizzly G0555LX bandsaw. This also has the riser block installed. I’ve read the manual, watched the videos, made the adjustments, etc. As soon as I put on a blade smaller than 1/4 inch I cannot get it to stay on. In my case 3/16 and 1/8 inch blades of different brands. Some from Woodcraft and some Timber Wolf blades from Suffolk Machinery.

In a nutshell, if I install a blade 1/4”, 3/8” or 1/2”, I have not problem. Anything smaller is where the problem starts. For example, install a smaller blade and one of two things happen. Turn the wheels by hand (several hundred revolutions) and the blade stays in place. Apply power and it comes off immediately. Or install the blade and turn by hand the the blade will walk right off the wheels. If you can get it to track by hand spinning only, the slightest adjustment of the tracking knob (a couple of degrees) and it will come off.

It appears to me as if the crown on the wheel is to great for a smaller blade. Almost as if it is balanced on a knife edge. I’ve spoken to Grizzly about this and they recommended that I sand a slight flat into both tires. But here is my concern with this fix. I’ve spent several hours looking on-line and have never seen a fix like this recommended. Has anyone run across something like this? Or this solution?

Thanks.


6 replies so far

View rwe2156's profile

rwe2156

2710 posts in 1314 days


#1 posted 08-08-2017 05:53 PM

No I haven’t but I have two saws that both have flat tires I have no problems like you describe.

I think what Grizzly is saying sounds right, though.

Isn’t the tire usually crowned rather than the wheel? Can you buy a set of flat tires for that saw?

Other than that, if you’re trying to use a 1/8” blade, perhaps you should be cosidering a scroll saw?

-- Everything is a prototype thats why its one of a kind!!

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jim_s

3 posts in 125 days


#2 posted 08-08-2017 06:27 PM

Thanks for the quick reply.

I believe you are correct about the crown being in the tire. I have not checked for other options in the tires. Flat vs. crowned. Seeing as the advertised spec of the saw says it can function with blades this narrow you would think….I don’t have a problem with attempting to sand a small flat surface on the tires. I’ve never seen this as a recommendation which is why I’m checking with the “experts” here.

The scroll saw is a good idea except when cutting bandsaw boxes that are several inches thick. The use for the narrow blade is for the tight radius encountered in some boxes.

Reviewing my original,post, I failed to mention that the blade guides are not engaged. At one point I actually removed the upper and lower guides from the saw to get a clearer view of what was happening.

Thanks.

View splintergroup's profile

splintergroup

1687 posts in 1056 days


#3 posted 08-08-2017 08:02 PM

Small blades are tricky, but certainly not impossible.
Place a pointer near the crown of each wheel so you can see if there is any shifting of the apparent crown or excessive runout as you spin the wheel by hand (no blade installed).

If it appears the crown “moves around”, sanding the tire will let you restore the crown.

Also consider the possibility of failing bearings. Given you had tracking by hand then lost it when you applied power could indicate the wheel(s) shift a bit when under power, Simply trying to shift the wheels by hand at 9 & 3 o’clock should let you know.

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jim_s

3 posts in 125 days


#4 posted 08-14-2017 03:01 PM



Small blades are tricky, but certainly not impossible.
Place a pointer near the crown of each wheel so you can see if there is any shifting of the apparent crown or excessive runout as you spin the wheel by hand (no blade installed).

If it appears the crown “moves around”, sanding the tire will let you restore the crown.

Also consider the possibility of failing bearings. Given you had tracking by hand then lost it when you applied power could indicate the wheel(s) shift a bit when under power, Simply trying to shift the wheels by hand at 9 & 3 o clock should let you know.

- splintergroup


splintergroup, thanks for the suggestions. Sorry for the delay but sometimes life gets in the way.

I did not see any shifting or runout as you mentioned. As an added check I also looked at how centered the crown was on each wheel. Both seemed to be right in the center.

I checked for bearing wear as you suggested on both wheels at the 9 and 3 o’clock positions. And just to check myself I also checked at a few other locations as well. Of course I needed to put a blade on the wheels with a minimum amount of tension or the top wheel would rock due to the adjuster and tracking mechanism.

I’m contemplating sanding a flat spot on the tires as suggested by the manufacturer. Just thinking, not doing and open for any more suggestions.

Thanks.

View cabmaker's profile

cabmaker

1621 posts in 2642 days


#5 posted 08-14-2017 03:15 PM

jim,,,, i would not recommend sanding a flat spot on your tires unless you are reestablishing the crown.

Your problem may very well be the weld in the blade

I hint of being out of true in the blade will be very noticeable in a narrow blade

View bbasiaga's profile

bbasiaga

1003 posts in 1829 days


#6 posted 08-14-2017 03:31 PM

Are you sre you have the right amount of tension? If it tracks fine by hand but pops off under power it could be that there is not enough friction to hold it on the tire. The tension gauge on the back is not always accurrate, and with the riser installed may be way off.

Brian

-- Part of engineering is to know when to put your calculator down and pick up your tools.

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