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Dyeing Maple Plywood

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Forum topic by Medici posted 08-03-2017 11:55 PM 405 views 0 times favorited 11 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Medici

43 posts in 396 days


08-03-2017 11:55 PM

Topic tags/keywords: question tip maple spray gun finishing refurbishing veneering sanding modern arts and crafts

So I’ve searched around, and have found some great info, but would like some answers on a few things. I am planning on making a simple desk with fabricated metal legs, with maple plywood as my base, and maple edge banding.

I have searched far & wide, and in my location (Albany, NY), there is just no retail store in a 1 hour driving radius that offers cabinet grade (A-grade) maple plywood. It’s all wholesale distributors. That being said, I am biting the bullet and buying some 3/4” maple plywood from Lowe’s. I’ll do some digging, and will try and get the best piece I can, but it won’t be as perfect as the high end stuff, unfortunately. Plywood veneers are thin, so I’ll be using 320-grit between coats of everything.

I have read that people suggest to seal the plywood with a 50/50 mix of de-waxed shellac & denatured alcohol; but, I plan on using some of my Charles Neil blotch control instead – Is this going to be good enough?

I am dyeing the maple with some Transtint “vintage maple” dye with a solution of distilled water mixed in. Then I am going to do a few coats of semi-gloss shellac.

Am I missing anything, or can anyone suggest anything?

P.S. – I’m not spraying anything.. all either rubbed/brushed.


11 replies so far

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Loren

9560 posts in 3462 days


#1 posted 08-03-2017 11:59 PM

I’ve found that plywood dealers are generally
happy to deal with walk-ins but prefer to be
paid by cash or check. If you haven’t made some
calls, perhaps you should. Just call and ask
to speak to a salesperson.

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Medici

43 posts in 396 days


#2 posted 08-04-2017 12:01 AM



I ve found that plywood dealers are generally
happy to deal with walk-ins but prefer to be
paid by cash or check. If you haven t made some
calls, perhaps you should.

- Loren

I’ve called a couple places, non were interested in individual sales unfortunately. The saddest part is that I work in a furniture manufacturing company that keeps stock of Maple, Cherry, and Walnut plywood.. and our distributor wouldn’t sell me, an employee of their customer, an individual piece.. and they’re literally next door to us in our industrial park..

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Andybb

527 posts in 418 days


#3 posted 08-04-2017 02:22 AM

You can’t order it through your job? I might dive the hour otherwise. Also, my experience is that the transtint dyes don’t seem to penetrate much so sanding is dicey at best. Practice on some scrap 1st.

-- Andybb

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Medici

43 posts in 396 days


#4 posted 08-04-2017 02:38 AM



You can t order it through your job? I might dive the hour otherwise. Also, my experience is that the transtint dyes don t seem to penetrate much so sanding is dicey at best. Practice on some scrap 1st.

- Andybb

Like I said, no I can’t get it from my job. And I WOULD drive an hour or so, but there isn’t anything around. Upstate New York is notorious for being just a poor, shitty area. Not a lot of distributors of lumber, electronics, etc. Big box stores dominate most areas.. And the places that DO sell what you want are out dated, so they don’t typically have websites or onlinestores.. so i haven’t heard of anything.

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Rich

1881 posts in 404 days


#5 posted 08-04-2017 02:39 AM



Also, my experience is that the transtint dyes don t seem to penetrate much so sanding is dicey at best. Practice on some scrap 1st.

- Andybb

Agreed, especially the practice part. I’d recommend raising the grain with some distilled water and sanding that smooth first, so after the dye you can get by with some 400 grit (or, I like the Mirka Mirlon Total pads) and not cut through the dye. Charles’ blotch control is a good idea too before you apply the dye.

-- No matter how much you push the envelope, it'll still be stationery.

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Andybb

527 posts in 418 days


#6 posted 08-04-2017 02:59 AM

I could have sworn your original post said something about you working for a cabinet shop right next door to a distributor or did I see that someplace else? I thought that maybe your job could order it or order one extra piece next time they need that same material. I misunderstood. I thought you said it was an hour drive to the nearset distributor.

Just realize that the dye is going to be your most delicate layer, much more so than the first layer of veneer. Maybe, like Rich said, raise the grain then sand to 220, apply the dye then seal it with a few coats of whatever and sand that to 320 or 400, not the dye layer directly.

-- Andybb

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Medici

43 posts in 396 days


#7 posted 08-04-2017 10:56 AM



I could have sworn your original post said something about you working for a cabinet shop right next door to a distributor or did I see that someplace else? I thought that maybe your job could order it or order one extra piece next time they need that same material. I misunderstood. I thought you said it was an hour drive to the nearset distributor.

Just realize that the dye is going to be your most delicate layer, much more so than the first layer of veneer. Maybe, like Rich said, raise the grain then sand to 220, apply the dye then seal it with a few coats of whatever and sand that to 320 or 400, not the dye layer directly.

- Andybb

Ahh yeah, sorry for the misunderstanding. I think I’m going to go with what rich said. Thanks!

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OSU55

1397 posts in 1804 days


#8 posted 08-04-2017 11:11 AM

For future reference blotch control. Are you spraying the shellac? Transtint can be mixed directly into the shellac, creating a toner, which will increase color intensity and blend lite/dark areas. Shellac is not a good top coat choice for a desk – just not tough enough. Oil or water based poly is a much better choice.

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Medici

43 posts in 396 days


#9 posted 08-04-2017 12:59 PM



For future reference blotch control. Are you spraying the shellac? Transtint can be mixed directly into the shellac, creating a toner, which will increase color intensity and blend lite/dark areas. Shellac is not a good top coat choice for a desk – just not tough enough. Oil or water based poly is a much better choice.

- OSU55

This helps a lot! I’ll pick up some shellac to try it today before I go further. I am not spraying.

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CharlesNeil

2113 posts in 3685 days


#10 posted 08-04-2017 03:09 PM

using a dye is ..quick on quick off, spraying a wet coat and then wiping back asap is the best way ..just filmed a youtube on it be up, in a couple of days .. Charles Neil woodworking

what ever you use .. skip the foam brushes use a stain pad or something that will hold alot of liquid and haul a**,

To answer the ops question, our Blotch control is all you need

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Medici

43 posts in 396 days


#11 posted 08-04-2017 04:47 PM



using a dye is ..quick on quick off, spraying a wet coat and then wiping back asap is the best way ..just filmed a youtube on it be up, in a couple of days .. Charles Neil woodworking

what ever you use .. skip the foam brushes use a stain pad or something that will hold alot of liquid and haul a**,

To answer the ops question, our Blotch control is all you need

- CharlesNeil

You’re a legend, I appreciate the feedback!

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