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what order to finish piece with brass inlays

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Forum topic by whiteshoecovers posted 07-25-2017 02:25 PM 404 views 0 times favorited 8 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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whiteshoecovers

54 posts in 917 days


07-25-2017 02:25 PM

I’m starting a project where I will be inlaying brass (square 1/8” bar stock) into walnut. I’ve attached a image of part of the pattern. I think I’d like to just use a danish oil or similar on the wood. My question is: what is the best order for this project. I am thinking to first finish the walnut before doing the inlay. I have heard that any sanding after the brass is in place will cause the pores in the walnut to fill up with brass dust, and I certainly don’t want that. I have also considered that the brass may need to be lacquered, which I would need to do once inserted. So is it:

fine sanding of walnut
CNC the inlay pattern
final sanding and oil
inlay brass
lacquer

Also, I was going to make a jig to pre-bend the brass in the scallop shape and file the ends to the correct angle to make inlaying go as smooth as possible.

Thanks

QK

Edit: The radius of the scallops are about 7/8”


8 replies so far

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sras

4658 posts in 2962 days


#1 posted 07-25-2017 02:54 PM

I haven’t sanded brass on wood, but when I have a similar question I try a few different processes on a piece of scrap…

-- Steve - Impatience is Expensive

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whiteshoecovers

54 posts in 917 days


#2 posted 07-25-2017 03:31 PM



I haven t sanded brass on wood, but when I have a similar question I try a few different processes on a piece of scrap…

- sras

Thanks, I am doing a small (16” square) test piece to see if I am happy with the pattern and process. I thought I’d also try to get a head start by surveying the collective wisdom of this community.

QK

View bigJohninvegas's profile

bigJohninvegas

382 posts in 1295 days


#3 posted 07-25-2017 03:46 PM

I use powdered metals with turning. Always use 50/50 mix of shellac and alcohol to seal the wood before adding the powder metal. Then sand it off smooth. The shellac mix is thin and sands away. Never had a problem with the brass as long as I seal the wood first. Have you thought of using powdered metal vs the solid bar for the inlay?

-- John

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DS

2819 posts in 2253 days


#4 posted 07-25-2017 03:53 PM

I’ve done something similar using polished steel inlays.

The groove for the inlay was CNC cut and the metal was plasma cut from sheet stock to precise dimensions.
The parts were dry fitted then finished separately.

The finished parts were then mated with a silicone adhesive. It came out great.

-- "Hard work is not defined by the difficulty of the task as much as a person's desire to perform it.", DS251

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whiteshoecovers

54 posts in 917 days


#5 posted 07-25-2017 04:22 PM


I ve done something similar using polished steel inlays.

The groove for the inlay was CNC cut and the metal was plasma cut from sheet stock to precise dimensions.
The parts were dry fitted then finished separately.

The finished parts were then mated with a silicone adhesive. It came out great.

- DS

Hey, that’s a great idea. I’ve worked with a local water jet cutter who could kill this, thought that does take a lot of the “craftsmanship” out of it.

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oldnovice

6419 posts in 3201 days


#6 posted 07-25-2017 10:18 PM

bigJohninvegas, the link to ”powder metal” leads to a Mazda 3 license plate frame.

-- "I never met a board I didn't like!"

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bigJohninvegas

382 posts in 1295 days


#7 posted 07-26-2017 01:27 AM


bigJohninvegas, the link to ”powder metal” leads to a Mazda 3 license plate frame.

- oldnovice


What link?

-- John

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oldnovice

6419 posts in 3201 days


#8 posted 07-26-2017 03:25 AM

Sorry, bigJohninvegas, it’s one of those artifacts on this site which takes words and makes them look like Web links!
Why this happens is beyond me!

-- "I never met a board I didn't like!"

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