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Brad nailer, Rebuild or Replace

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Forum topic by ChefHDAN posted 07-24-2017 02:15 PM 466 views 0 times favorited 15 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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ChefHDAN

992 posts in 2688 days


07-24-2017 02:15 PM

My PC BN200a stopped shooting nails last night after 13 years of use, (yes oiled regularly). Searching here I’ve found some older posts recommending the rebuild over the replacement because of the “cheaper” quality of the nailers. Given that I paid $100 for it in 03, and that they’re selling for the same now, I guess there have to be some corners cut. Looking on CL i’m seeing them within my regular commute for $15 to $40, and of course the plain boxed ones from the compressor tool kits are numerous. The rebuild kit is about $50 to $60, and this is where I’m torn to just pick up a CL one, but of course, i’d have no idea how well cared for it was. Also wondering what part it is that is needed, and whether the whole kit is needed. Have any of you had to consider this and what did you learn?

-- I've decided 1 mistake is really 2 opportunities to learn.. learn how to fix it... and learn how to not repeat it


15 replies so far

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lew

11846 posts in 3594 days


#1 posted 07-24-2017 02:30 PM

Is it leaking air? That may be an indicator of what you need to replace.

I repaired my old Bostitch several time but recently replaced it with a “Grip-Rite” nailer. So far it is working well.

-- Lew- Time traveler. Purveyor of the Universe's finest custom rolling pins.

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ChefHDAN

992 posts in 2688 days


#2 posted 07-24-2017 02:41 PM

No audible leaks, just no action of the driver. Checked the easy stuff jam pressure etc, depress safety, pull trigger & Nothing.

-- I've decided 1 mistake is really 2 opportunities to learn.. learn how to fix it... and learn how to not repeat it

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teejk02

476 posts in 964 days


#3 posted 07-24-2017 03:34 PM



No audible leaks, just no action of the driver. Checked the easy stuff jam pressure etc, depress safety, pull trigger & Nothing.

- ChefHDAN

If it sounds like it is operating but fails to drive nails, look closely at the front and you might find that the “driver” rod is no longer retracting (seems to be a common failure). You can verify that by retracting it manually. If so most likely it is the internal “bumper”. I swallowed hard and bought the rebuild parts. The part itself is only plastic and amazed they can charge that much for it but such is life on most tool repair parts.

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waho6o9

8034 posts in 2416 days


#4 posted 07-24-2017 03:45 PM

Take it apart and clean it up and see what u find, maybe it’s something simple.

My Paslode did the same thing and after a good cleaning and straightening out a bent metal piece
I got it to work.

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ChefHDAN

992 posts in 2688 days


#5 posted 07-24-2017 04:28 PM

If so most likely it is the internal “bumper”. I swallowed hard and bought the rebuild parts. The part itself is only plastic and amazed they can charge that much for it but such is life on most tool repair parts.
- teejk02

Found a PC site to order individual parts, not sure where to see the bumper, planning to begin disassembly and see if I can get it online for fewer parts.

-- I've decided 1 mistake is really 2 opportunities to learn.. learn how to fix it... and learn how to not repeat it

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waho6o9

8034 posts in 2416 days


#6 posted 07-24-2017 06:25 PM

http://www.ereplacementparts.com/porter-cable-bn200a-brad-nailer-parts-c-129_1717_2145.html

Sometimes the above site is worth the postage to get parts to your shop.

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waho6o9

8034 posts in 2416 days


#7 posted 07-24-2017 06:33 PM

http://www.ereplacementparts.com/images/part_p_163100_4237553447.gif?osCsid=e8denncqbsrq46j9ajp37fqg04

Yup the rebuild kit is 60.00 plus S&H etc… and a new one is around 100.00 makes it a tough call.

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Dwain

478 posts in 3698 days


#8 posted 07-24-2017 06:33 PM

I think you are right to get the rebuild kit. Yep, $50 or $60 spent, but you know the history of the nailer and with any luck you will have a close-to-new nailer after the rebuild kit. Now, I’m not familiar with rebuilding nailers and just tossed a PC I’ve had since 2000, but IF YOU KNOW the rebuild kit will fix the problem, then do it. It’s obviously the best solution. I would suggest it’s even better than replacing the one bad part. If you buy a used one on CL you may be getting the same rebuild kit in six months anyway.

I just spent $100.00 for a couple of parts for my Hitachi 3.25hp router. Frankly, I could almost replace it for that kind of money, however, I know the history of the tool and I am very comfortable with it. I hope to have the router for another five or 10 years. Then, it’ll be time to move on.

Do what you can to save the nailer you have.

-- When you earnestly believe you can compensate for a lack of skill by doubling your efforts, there is no end to what you CAN'T do

View fivecodys's profile

fivecodys

838 posts in 1475 days


#9 posted 07-24-2017 08:25 PM

MY BN200 did the same thing. It was pretty old and I just couldn’t justify dropping that much for the refurb kit so I cheaped out and bought a HF 18 gauge brad nailer on sale for $20. I thought that this would get me by for a few months until I decided what I was going to replace it with. I’ve had it a few years now and other than being kind of loud it has worked fine.

-- Chem, Central California

View Gart's profile

Gart

26 posts in 1255 days


#10 posted 07-25-2017 12:02 AM

Ditto. Mine quit retracting. Took the top off and found the plastic bumper had disintegrated.

Found a replacement through Amazon for $17.00. Expensive piece of plastic but cheaper than replacing everything. Took 5 minutes to install at most. LINK

Gart

View dhazelton's profile

dhazelton

2611 posts in 2135 days


#11 posted 07-25-2017 12:13 AM

I would buy the rebuild kit ONLY if it replaces every part that could wear ensuring you have a new gun when you are done.

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ChefHDAN

992 posts in 2688 days


#12 posted 07-25-2017 10:51 AM

Thanks LJ’s for the thoughts and opinions.
I went out to the shop last night with the intention of beginning disassembly to try & determine where the malfunction was. One item not mentioned in my OP was that the plastic nose piece fractured and broke off shortly before it stopped shooting. I figured it as inconsequential as it’s just there to minimize denting. Working backwards I went from the safety, to the depth arm and then to the trigger. Part #20 in the diagram above shows the little piece of black metal which is contained inside the U shaped metal piece of the trigger. It appears that my frequent oiling and residual build up of dust and debris, somehow managed to get this piece of metal stuck into the “unsafe” position and would not allow the trigger to fire. After a bit of jiggling I heard a click and then voila it was firing again. I liberally sprayed the mech out with WD40 and blasted it from the compressor and all is well.

Had I not thought to come here to cast the question and seek advice I’s likely already have the part on the way, many thanks to you all for the “Stop & Think” help!

-- I've decided 1 mistake is really 2 opportunities to learn.. learn how to fix it... and learn how to not repeat it

View teejk02's profile

teejk02

476 posts in 964 days


#13 posted 07-25-2017 01:50 PM



Thanks LJ s for the thoughts and opinions.
I went out to the shop last night with the intention of beginning disassembly to try & determine where the malfunction was. One item not mentioned in my OP was that the plastic nose piece fractured and broke off shortly before it stopped shooting. I figured it as inconsequential as it s just there to minimize denting. Working backwards I went from the safety, to the depth arm and then to the trigger. Part #20 in the diagram above shows the little piece of black metal which is contained inside the U shaped metal piece of the trigger. It appears that my frequent oiling and residual build up of dust and debris, somehow managed to get this piece of metal stuck into the “unsafe” position and would not allow the trigger to fire. After a bit of jiggling I heard a click and then voila it was firing again. I liberally sprayed the mech out with WD40 and blasted it from the compressor and all is well.

Had I not thought to come here to cast the question and seek advice I s likely already have the part on the way, many thanks to you all for the “Stop & Think” help!

- ChefHDAN

For future reference the “bumper” is #120 on your parts diagram. Like someone else mentioned, mine also disintegrated (almost like it was eaten by the oil). Also for future reference, if you ever rebuild it, DO NOT remove the top part with the air exhaust deflector. It incorporates a tiny ball and spring and some idiot spent hours looking for that little ball when it shot out of the gun. The shroud can stay on.

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teejk02

476 posts in 964 days


#14 posted 07-25-2017 01:52 PM



Ditto. Mine quit retracting. Took the top off and found the plastic bumper had disintegrated.

Found a replacement through Amazon for $17.00. Expensive piece of plastic but cheaper than replacing everything. Took 5 minutes to install at most. LINK

Gart

- Gart

Might need an impact driver to loosen those hex bolts, otherwise it isn’t a bad job to fix.

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ChefHDAN

992 posts in 2688 days


#15 posted 07-27-2017 04:44 PM

Thanks Teejk02, I think I read your advice to another person when I searched LJ for information, the spring & ball warning was part of what had me being ever so cautious to have to begin disassembly.

-- I've decided 1 mistake is really 2 opportunities to learn.. learn how to fix it... and learn how to not repeat it

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