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Brad nailer, Rebuild or Replace

3K views 15 replies 8 participants last post by  ChefHDAN 
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
My PC BN200a stopped shooting nails last night after 13 years of use, (yes oiled regularly). Searching here I've found some older posts recommending the rebuild over the replacement because of the "cheaper" quality of the nailers. Given that I paid $100 for it in 03, and that they're selling for the same now, I guess there have to be some corners cut. Looking on CL i'm seeing them within my regular commute for $15 to $40, and of course the plain boxed ones from the compressor tool kits are numerous. The rebuild kit is about $50 to $60, and this is where I'm torn to just pick up a CL one, but of course, i'd have no idea how well cared for it was. Also wondering what part it is that is needed, and whether the whole kit is needed. Have any of you had to consider this and what did you learn?
 
#2 ·
Is it leaking air? That may be an indicator of what you need to replace.

I repaired my old Bostitch several time but recently replaced it with a "Grip-Rite" nailer. So far it is working well.
 
#3 ·
No audible leaks, just no action of the driver. Checked the easy stuff jam pressure etc, depress safety, pull trigger & Nothing.
 
#4 ·
No audible leaks, just no action of the driver. Checked the easy stuff jam pressure etc, depress safety, pull trigger & Nothing.

- ChefHDAN
If it sounds like it is operating but fails to drive nails, look closely at the front and you might find that the "driver" rod is no longer retracting (seems to be a common failure). You can verify that by retracting it manually. If so most likely it is the internal "bumper". I swallowed hard and bought the rebuild parts. The part itself is only plastic and amazed they can charge that much for it but such is life on most tool repair parts.
 
#6 ·
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If so most likely it is the internal "bumper". I swallowed hard and bought the rebuild parts. The part itself is only plastic and amazed they can charge that much for it but such is life on most tool repair parts.
- teejk02
[/QUOTE]

Found a PC site to order individual parts, not sure where to see the bumper, planning to begin disassembly and see if I can get it online for fewer parts.
 
#9 ·
I think you are right to get the rebuild kit. Yep, $50 or $60 spent, but you know the history of the nailer and with any luck you will have a close-to-new nailer after the rebuild kit. Now, I'm not familiar with rebuilding nailers and just tossed a PC I've had since 2000, but IF YOU KNOW the rebuild kit will fix the problem, then do it. It's obviously the best solution. I would suggest it's even better than replacing the one bad part. If you buy a used one on CL you may be getting the same rebuild kit in six months anyway.

I just spent $100.00 for a couple of parts for my Hitachi 3.25hp router. Frankly, I could almost replace it for that kind of money, however, I know the history of the tool and I am very comfortable with it. I hope to have the router for another five or 10 years. Then, it'll be time to move on.

Do what you can to save the nailer you have.
 
#10 ·
MY BN200 did the same thing. It was pretty old and I just couldn't justify dropping that much for the refurb kit so I cheaped out and bought a HF 18 gauge brad nailer on sale for $20. I thought that this would get me by for a few months until I decided what I was going to replace it with. I've had it a few years now and other than being kind of loud it has worked fine.
 
#13 ·
Thanks LJ's for the thoughts and opinions.
I went out to the shop last night with the intention of beginning disassembly to try & determine where the malfunction was. One item not mentioned in my OP was that the plastic nose piece fractured and broke off shortly before it stopped shooting. I figured it as inconsequential as it's just there to minimize denting. Working backwards I went from the safety, to the depth arm and then to the trigger. Part #20 in the diagram above shows the little piece of black metal which is contained inside the U shaped metal piece of the trigger. It appears that my frequent oiling and residual build up of dust and debris, somehow managed to get this piece of metal stuck into the "unsafe" position and would not allow the trigger to fire. After a bit of jiggling I heard a click and then voila it was firing again. I liberally sprayed the mech out with WD40 and blasted it from the compressor and all is well.

Had I not thought to come here to cast the question and seek advice I's likely already have the part on the way, many thanks to you all for the "Stop & Think" help!
 
#14 ·
Thanks LJ s for the thoughts and opinions.
I went out to the shop last night with the intention of beginning disassembly to try & determine where the malfunction was. One item not mentioned in my OP was that the plastic nose piece fractured and broke off shortly before it stopped shooting. I figured it as inconsequential as it s just there to minimize denting. Working backwards I went from the safety, to the depth arm and then to the trigger. Part #20 in the diagram above shows the little piece of black metal which is contained inside the U shaped metal piece of the trigger. It appears that my frequent oiling and residual build up of dust and debris, somehow managed to get this piece of metal stuck into the "unsafe" position and would not allow the trigger to fire. After a bit of jiggling I heard a click and then voila it was firing again. I liberally sprayed the mech out with WD40 and blasted it from the compressor and all is well.

Had I not thought to come here to cast the question and seek advice I s likely already have the part on the way, many thanks to you all for the "Stop & Think" help!

- ChefHDAN
For future reference the "bumper" is #120 on your parts diagram. Like someone else mentioned, mine also disintegrated (almost like it was eaten by the oil). Also for future reference, if you ever rebuild it, DO NOT remove the top part with the air exhaust deflector. It incorporates a tiny ball and spring and some idiot spent hours looking for that little ball when it shot out of the gun. The shroud can stay on.
 
#16 ·
Thanks Teejk02, I think I read your advice to another person when I searched LJ for information, the spring & ball warning was part of what had me being ever so cautious to have to begin disassembly.
 
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