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Priming oak with water based primer - tanin issue

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Forum topic by AAANDRRREW posted 07-20-2017 01:52 PM 405 views 0 times favorited 8 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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AAANDRRREW

210 posts in 1009 days


07-20-2017 01:52 PM

All,

I’ve been painting doors and trim and the like white per my wife’s request. I have been using bullseye 1-2-3 water based primer with good results, except for the occasional tanin bleed through. I have been fixing this issue by just touching the small portions up with oil based coverstain primer. I much rather use the water based due to ease of cleanup and noone complains about the smell. My latest project is painting our kitchen cabinet doors. After an entire weekend of prep and spraying, every single damn door has some bleed through to some extent. I went back and touched them all up with a roller/brush in the affected areas, but now of course I will need to sand more to make sure everything is uniform when I paint.

My question is, if this tanin bleeds through and I plan on using a water based enamel paint (Hallman Lindsay’s aqua alkyd) will it continue bleeding through or will it stop at the primer stage?


8 replies so far

View rwyoung's profile

rwyoung

409 posts in 3309 days


#1 posted 07-20-2017 05:10 PM

Zinser BIN primer/sealer. The stuff with real shellac, not the waterbased or “artifical shellac” stuff. Doesn’t smell (much), easy cleanup, dries quick, sands easily and seals well. Compatible with most topcoats.

-- Don't sweat the petty things and don't pet the sweaty things.

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AAANDRRREW

210 posts in 1009 days


#2 posted 07-20-2017 05:13 PM

So, the BIN – I saw it on the shelf. Assuming clean up with mineral spirits? Sprayable? I got great results shooting the 1-2-3 with a little bit of water and floetrol

View OSU55's profile

OSU55

1424 posts in 1826 days


#3 posted 07-20-2017 07:29 PM

Clean up with dna. Sprays well, may need to thin with dna depending on your spray method. Excellent primer.

View Fred Hargis's profile

Fred Hargis

4757 posts in 2330 days


#4 posted 07-20-2017 08:09 PM

Just a suggestion, I’d clean with household ammonia. It absolutely destroys shellac, rendering the brushes, spray guns, whatever truly clean. DNA will dilute it, but at least in my experience) always leaves some trace amount behind. Just mix a cupful with some warm water and go to work. Besides, it will be quite a bit cheaper than DNA. Just a caution: ammonia can stain aluminum like the cup of your gun. Doesn’t hurt it, but will stain it.

-- Our village hasn't lost it's idiot, he was elected to congress.

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OSU55

1424 posts in 1826 days


#5 posted 07-21-2017 03:18 PM

Ammonia does work very well to clean off shellac. I dont use ammonia in my guns, but brushes etc. after stripping any heavy dried shellac with dna.

View Bill White's profile

Bill White

4805 posts in 3797 days


#6 posted 07-21-2017 03:24 PM

I’m in Fred’s camp. I use ammonia as well. Doesn’t take a lot, and a couple of washes leaves everything clean.
After cleaning my badger bristle brush (BIG BUCKS), I wash it with shampoo. Been doing this for years.

Bill

-- bill@magraphics.us

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AAANDRRREW

210 posts in 1009 days


#7 posted 07-21-2017 03:28 PM

Thanks guys – just to confirm, we are talking about dna and ammonia when using the BIN, not the Cover stain, correct?

But going back to my original question – IF I didn’t touch up the tannin bleed areas and just made sure water WB primer was fully cured and sprayed the WB paint, would it still bleed through again?

View Fred Hargis's profile

Fred Hargis

4757 posts in 2330 days


#8 posted 07-21-2017 05:30 PM

The ammonia is for the BIN that’s shellac based only…I think they now offer BIN in other formulas. Cover Stain is an oil based primer, use MS or paint thinner for it. No idea about your original question, but I don’t think I would chance it.

-- Our village hasn't lost it's idiot, he was elected to congress.

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