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Forum topic by Amateurwoodwork posted 07-17-2017 02:00 PM 529 views 0 times favorited 26 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Amateurwoodwork

7 posts in 9 days


07-17-2017 02:00 PM

Topic tags/keywords: cabinet doors hinges overlay

I built a tall linen closet for our hallway. And I built the doors too wide by about 1/4” so the euro-style hinges I am using leave a gap when the door is closed. Is there anything I can do to fix this? Even a different type of hinge?


26 replies so far

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waho6o9

7889 posts in 2272 days


#1 posted 07-17-2017 02:12 PM

Are there any adjustments on the hinges?

Blum has a plethora of hinges that will work.

https://www.blum.com/us/en/01/#2

Are the hinges mounted on the face frame?

Welcome to LumberJocks Amateurwoodwork!

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Redoak49

2574 posts in 1684 days


#2 posted 07-17-2017 02:58 PM

A picture would help us help you.

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rwe2156

2576 posts in 1176 days


#3 posted 07-17-2017 03:10 PM

Gap where? Give us a pic.

-- Everything is a prototype thats why its one of a kind!!

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Bluenote38

47 posts in 84 days


#4 posted 07-17-2017 04:24 PM

Use and “T” astragal molding.

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Amateurwoodwork

7 posts in 9 days


#5 posted 07-17-2017 04:25 PM

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Amateurwoodwork

7 posts in 9 days


#6 posted 07-17-2017 04:28 PM

Sorrythe pictures are sideways. So you see the door closed, inside of open, and the from the side where the gap is. I do understand that it is common to have some space but I have almost a 1/2 inch and I’ve adjusted all that I can. My last solution, aside from rebuilding the doors, is to run trim that will partially cover the gap.

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bbasiaga

916 posts in 1690 days


#7 posted 07-17-2017 04:31 PM

Can you just reset the hinges back by that 1/2”?

Brian

-- Part of engineering is to know when to put your calculator down and pick up your tools.

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DS

2274 posts in 2116 days


#8 posted 07-17-2017 04:37 PM

The usual remedy is to trim the doors on either side.
By fudging the hinges, you’ve created a situation where the geometry no longer works within specs.

I can see you’ve tried multiple hinge holes on the back of the door. Use the hole placement specified for the maximum overlay for that hinge and no more than that. The rest will need to be adjusted in the actual door size.

BTW, 5 hinges is probably overkill on this door. 3 or 4 hinges should work fine.

Tip: Test your hinge overlay geometry with a piece of scrap material until you get a good setup. (No one likes Swiss cheese cabinet doors)

-- "Hard work is not defined by the difficulty of the task as much as a person's desire to perform it.", DS251

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AlaskaGuy

2911 posts in 2004 days


#9 posted 07-17-2017 04:54 PM

What hinge and base plate did you use?

Did you set the base plates back 37mm from the front of the cabinet to the base plate screw holes?

How far from the edge of the door are your cup holes?

How about a close up picture of the hinge?

We are talking about the gap between the door and the cabinet in picture 3 of my pictures right?

-- Alaskan's for Global warming!

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rwe2156

2576 posts in 1176 days


#10 posted 07-17-2017 10:11 PM

Don’t panic. You don’t need to rebuild or anything.

Most euro hinges are designed to screw into the shelf pin holes, which I believe are set back 37mm. This is where the problem is. All you have to do is reset the mounting plates to that distance.

BTW 3 hinges would have been fin for that door.

If you’re planning future cabs I recommend invest in a shelf pin drilling jig. This makes locating the hinges a snap.

-- Everything is a prototype thats why its one of a kind!!

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Loren

8997 posts in 3343 days


#11 posted 07-17-2017 10:40 PM

I think perhaps the OP is using full-overlay hinges
installed in such a way that the door completely
overlaps the case by 1/4”. In order to do this
the 35mm holes have to be drilled in further
than normal from the door edge and the hinge
cranked forward to allow the door to clear the
case when opened. This would be causing the
large gap seen from the side when the door is closed.

Unfortunately full overlay hinges don’t actually
do a full-overlay. They are designed to have
about 3/32” of the case frame (edgeband)
exposed at the edge.

The solution I think in this instance is to use
a different type of hinge.

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AlaskaGuy

2911 posts in 2004 days


#12 posted 07-18-2017 07:57 PM

Bump…..

-- Alaskan's for Global warming!

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builtinbkyn

1361 posts in 636 days


#13 posted 07-18-2017 08:36 PM

If you’re talking about the gap between the back of the door and the edge of the casework when the door is closed, those hinges should have fore/aft adjustment on the piece that’s mounted to the cabinet. Adjusting it will pull the door closer to the case. Other than that, I’m not sure I understand the question.

-- Bill, Yo!......in Brooklyn :)

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DS

2274 posts in 2116 days


#14 posted 07-18-2017 10:12 PM



I think perhaps the OP is using full-overlay hinges
installed in such a way that the door completely
overlaps the case by 1/4”. In order to do this
the 35mm holes have to be drilled in further
than normal from the door edge and the hinge
cranked forward to allow the door to clear the
case when opened. This would be causing the
large gap seen from the side when the door is closed.

Unfortunately full overlay hinges don t actually
do a full-overlay. They are designed to have
about 3/32” of the case frame (edgeband)
exposed at the edge.

The solution I think in this instance is to use
a different type of hinge.

- Loren


+1

This is what I see is happening.
If this is my cabinet, I am adjusting my door size for the maximum overlay spec of the hinge.

Do you really want the door sticking past the case end by 1/4”? (Even if you found a hinge that could make it?)

-- "Hard work is not defined by the difficulty of the task as much as a person's desire to perform it.", DS251

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DS

2274 posts in 2116 days


#15 posted 07-19-2017 04:00 PM

BTW, to fill all the mis-drilled holes along the one edge, I might put a long rabbit down that side and fill it in by gluing a solid wood strip to cover it.

-- "Hard work is not defined by the difficulty of the task as much as a person's desire to perform it.", DS251

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