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Forum topic by Camper posted 12-25-2010 02:41 AM 2571 views 0 times favorited 5 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Camper

232 posts in 2317 days


12-25-2010 02:41 AM

Topic tags/keywords: question roof carpentry fascia

Hello LJs and happy holidays,

While this is no woodworking I figured I could get some good advice from you all. Below is a side view of my roof. Actually its the fascia. The 2X10 cedar and the 1X?? boards in the picture have rotted out along one side of the house. In some areas the rot its on the surface 1/2” deep, in a few areas its rotten through the cedar.

I would like to replace the boards but I cannot figure out how I would nail the new boards since the drip edge is covering where I would put the nails and it cannot be taken out without getting the actual roof involved in the repairs. It seems the existing nails were there before the drip edge was put on.

The other alternative is to nail at angle from underneath the drip edge but in this case I would not be able to fix the 1X?? in place. So I am not too excited about this option.

The question here is, can I nail through the drip edge? Also would I need a framing nailer for this or could I do this with a hammer? I figure I would need to put about 20-30 VERY LONG nails.

Alternatively, is the anyway I can patch all this up until I have to replace the roof which is probably another 10 years. After all. all this seems just “cosmetic”. Can anyone provide me with some detailed info as to how I would prep the wood to eliminate rot, what epoxy to use etc?

Thanks in advance.

-- Tampa-FL


5 replies so far

View canadianchips's profile

canadianchips

2345 posts in 2458 days


#1 posted 12-25-2010 05:18 AM

You didn’t mention what type of roofing material is used .
Typically you want to remove ALL rotten material from the edge of roof. If you don’t more moisture is going to be trapped and the rotting process will just get worse. I would NOT nail through the drip edge. The idea of the drip edge is to shed the water AWAY from the wood. Yes you can nail large nails with just a hammer. Houses were built with just hammers. 24 oz would be nice !
You might be able to cut your drip edge, intall the new material needed then tuck a NEW drip edge under the remaining old one. Once again, without knowing what roof material you have, I can only guess. (In Florida I am guess tile roof) Make sure you use a good caulking when re-installing your new drip edge. Spending a few dollars NOW will save you a lot of money later.

-- "My mission in life - make everyone smile !"

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Camper

232 posts in 2317 days


#2 posted 12-25-2010 05:33 AM

The roofing material is shingles.

I see what you are saying regarding not nailing through the drip edge. The interesting part is that the “drip edge” (at least I think that’s what it is) is flat up against the 1x?? in the picture(even though it seems like I left a little gap in the drawing). It may as well be just glued on it. It actually is not because i can raise it slightly off the 1X??. Also if the drip edge is supposed to shed the water away, it would somewhat be curved out, rather than flat right up against the backing wood….would it not? I obviously am no roof expert…

The idea of tucking a new drip edge under the old one is a good one but I think the old one is nailed(fixed) onto the plywood under the shingles, so I would not be able to slide it in all the way or fix it onto the plywood.

-- Tampa-FL

View Mike's profile

Mike

93 posts in 2626 days


#3 posted 12-25-2010 06:40 AM

Your bottom row of shingles should be 2 layers. A starter shingel with the top shingle offset so the gaps don’t line up. The nails should be up about 6 to 7 inches from the bottom edge. Your should be able to fit a flat bar or wonder bar up under the shingles and remove the nails from the drip edge.

Remove and replace all the rotten boards. If it gets into the bottom of trusses, remove as much as you can and coat it with copper green or a similar preservative. Then add a cripple on the side of the truss as needed to give you a good nailing surface for the new facia.

I like to use deck screws to install the new facia. You can get them in various lengths at the lumber yard. You can reinstall a drip edge with a kick out on the bottom which will shed the water away from the structure.

Make shure the new drip edge goes under the felt. Agean you should be able to lift the shingles enough to sneek a short roofing nail under and into drip edge. I use the flat bar to sit on the nail and pound out farther on the bar to get the nail in without damaging the shingles. Generaly you can also put the flat bar on the nail and hit it thru the shingles so as to do as little damage as possable. You want to try to do this with one hit.

When you are putting the new facia on make shure you put it on with the angle of the roof so it dosn’t push up the shingles. You don’t need to bevle it just lower it down so the front ekge is in line with the slope or the roof.

Good luck

-- Mike, Cantral Oregon

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Camper

232 posts in 2317 days


#4 posted 12-27-2010 04:53 AM

Hello Mike, thanks for the detailed explanation. I’ll go over there again tomorrow and see if I can talk myself into taking on this job…

-- Tampa-FL

View GaryL's profile

GaryL

1094 posts in 2292 days


#5 posted 12-27-2010 05:08 AM

Mike’s explanation is excellent. If you want your replacement work to last for the long haul, prime and paint all six sides before installation. Do this to your fascia and freeze board (the smaller 1x). If you make any cuts during installation, simply have a throwaway chip brush and primer handy and coat the cuts generously ( without having a sloppy mess). Another extra step would be put a bead of caulk on your butt joint and squeeze your pcs together and then nail or screw. End grain is always a moisture wick.

-- Gary; Marysville, MI...Involve your children in your projects as much as possible, the return is priceless.

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