Setup question on planer

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Forum topic by D_Allen posted 12-25-2010 12:26 AM 1280 views 0 times favorited 10 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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495 posts in 2201 days

12-25-2010 12:26 AM

I am going to get the material I need to make an auxiliary table for my Ryobi planer. It will extend through the machine across the metal extension tables. I understand that this can help reduce snipe, which I have been unsuccessful at getting rid of by adjusting the extensions.
My question is, should there still be a slight incline on the metal extensions or adjust them to be flat clear through the machine?

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10 replies so far

View AaronK's profile


1436 posts in 2882 days

#1 posted 12-25-2010 01:08 AM

i would adjust them to be coplanar with the bed (ie, flat “clear through” as you say.

The angled extensions that come on these planers are a only sometimes working solution to the problem of too short a bed. when I tried to plane some very long pieces using only the extension tables on my planer (which HAS a cutterhead lock), they didnt work: the long length of the pieces caused the workpiece to bow in an upward convex shape. this pushed the middle parts of the board length harder up against the cutter head. The end result were pieces with a sort of reverse snipe: thicker near the ends and thinner near the middle. VERY FRUSTRATING! the lesson: you need some sort of help on longer pieces, and the idea bed is like that of a jointer – preferably as long as your workpiece on both in and out feed tables.

View D_Allen's profile


495 posts in 2201 days

#2 posted 12-25-2010 02:50 AM

Thanks AaronK, that is what I figured.
I have a piece of melimine shelving that I am going to try first to try to determine how much flex there is from end to end, if any. I may end up getting a piece of countertop with particle board or perhaps gluing my own laminate onto some baltic birch ply.

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View live4ever's profile


983 posts in 2427 days

#3 posted 12-25-2010 04:29 AM

Rule of thumb I’ve heard in multiple places is to elevate the ends a penny’s thickness.

-- Optimists are usually disappointed. Pessimists are either right or pleasantly surprised. I tend to be a disappointed pessimist.

View juniorjock's profile


1930 posts in 3183 days

#4 posted 12-25-2010 04:48 AM

Cut your boards a little long…..... if you have any snipe, no problem. It’s not like you’re wasting a tree or anything.
- JJ

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1878 posts in 2978 days

#5 posted 12-25-2010 04:50 AM

This is how I did mine and I’m happy with the results. I made the inny and outy tables coplaner with the bed, but they are adjustable should I need or want to change them.

I give the end of the board a slight lift when I start a pass and another at the end of a pass. I’ve found that this gives the least amount (usually none) of snipe. It’s something that you kind of get the feel for.

-- Joe

View AaronK's profile


1436 posts in 2882 days

#6 posted 12-25-2010 04:55 AM

the point is, with a long and fixed bed you dont need to raise the ends – if it’s long enough you dont even need a cutter head lock – and you wont get snipe.

D_allen – the main thing is that the bed that you make shouldnt flex. if it flexes, then you’re no better (or worse) off than the stock table extensions, but you’ll have wasted your time. reinforcement is the key here – possibly using a torsion box design. Some people use the planer set up in line with a long flat workbench on either side that has been adjusted to exactly the height of the planer bed. That way the support doesn’t flex.

View HorizontalMike's profile


7063 posts in 2331 days

#7 posted 12-25-2010 05:48 AM

Early on I needed to build infeed/outfeed tables for my planer and found plans to make it with less than a sheet of 3/4” plywood. The biggest piece I have run through thus far are my 3”x12”x8’ bench top halves:

The adjusting mechanism is like Joe’s and the rest is much, much simpler. This will get me by until I decide if/when I need something better. I get NO snipe with these long extensions.

-- HorizontalMike -- "Woodpeckers understand..."

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Jim Finn

2390 posts in 2339 days

#8 posted 12-26-2010 04:34 PM

D Allen: Yes, Melmane shelving is what I use. Mine is over 1” thick and works well the way you discribed mounting it.

-- "You may have your PHD but I have my GED and my DD 214"

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495 posts in 2201 days

#9 posted 12-26-2010 06:37 PM

I don’t know of any melamine that is 1” thick so, did you use 2 pieces? How did you fasten them together?

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495 posts in 2201 days

#10 posted 12-26-2010 09:40 PM

Well now this is interesting. I have tried to make an adjustment to the extension tables that was actually not even an adjustment. Apparently I just made a bad assumption. The extention tables pivot on bolts that have a slotted end and a nut to tighten so the bolt will not move. I was under the notion that these were concentric and that turning them slightly would raise and lower the extention table next to the planer bed. Actually it looks like that is what happens but it is not working like that. All these bolts do is change how far the cone shaped end engages the side of the table. If one or both are backed off, the table will lower slightly but it will also be ‘floating’ from side to side. Now I see why it was making me crazy. I’d turn one sde and the other side was changed too. I didn’t expect that to happen but I see now why it was happening.
So, now I think I am going to try this planer with the extention tables removed and see if I can do a better job of controling the snipe. I can’t do any worse!

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