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What should I do with this somewhat uncommon Stanley plane part?

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Forum topic by Marn64 posted 07-11-2017 06:37 PM 2359 views 0 times favorited 9 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Marn64

295 posts in 623 days


07-11-2017 06:37 PM

Topic tags/keywords: question plane lever cap bedrock

So as some of you may remember, about a year ago I found a type 3 Stanley Bedrock 602 for a song. The blade is missing, the cap iron is bent, and the lever cap, while still a bedrock 602 lever cap, is of a later type study and therefore not correct to this early bedrock. Now, a later type 602 lever cap can sell for a fair amount of money on ebay, certainly not as much as a early 3 line bedrock 602 lever cap like the one I am looking for, but still a decent amount. The way I see it, I have a few options. I am aware that this question and my options are quite subjective and subject to personal choice but I would like to get somewhat of a consensus on what the rest of you think.
1. keep it in my parts stash for a future plane down the road and don’t remove the rust
2. keep it for myself in the parts stash but remove the rust
3. sell it on Ebay in current condition
4. sell it on Ebay with rust removed
Bear in mind, if I do keep it in current condition, I would consider using diluted simple green to kill off any active rust spots.


-- Benjamin, Milwaukee


9 replies so far

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Smitty_Cabinetshop

14847 posts in 2455 days


#1 posted 07-11-2017 06:56 PM

This looks like a very typical (and common) pre-war lever cap for a #2-sized Stanley bench plane. What differentiates it as being specific to a #602? I honestly don’t know / not a Bedrock guy.

That has a bearing on whether it is a sell piece or not.

-- Don't anthropomorphize your handplanes. They hate it when you do that. -- OldTools Archive --

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Marn64

295 posts in 623 days


#2 posted 07-11-2017 07:46 PM


This looks like a very typical (and common) pre-war lever cap for a #2-sized Stanley bench plane. What differentiates it as being specific to a #602? I honestly don t know / not a Bedrock guy.

That has a bearing on whether it is a sell piece or not.

- Smitty_Cabinetshop


I was under the impression that the black japanning behind the letters was unique to bedrocks, I could be wrong about that though.

-- Benjamin, Milwaukee

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ShaneA

6864 posts in 2435 days


#3 posted 07-11-2017 07:50 PM

Selling “as is” gives the potential new buyer the option of how they would like it to appear. Since it is not a 3-line or 1-line Bedrock cap…the value will not be as high as possible. It is a desirable pc to someone who needs it though. The market will dictate the price.

Edit: I believe what you are seeing as Japanning is just dirt/patina? Could be wrong though

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JayT

5453 posts in 2048 days


#4 posted 07-11-2017 07:56 PM

Starting with the type 7 Bedrocks, Stanley used the exact same lever caps for both the Bailey and Bedrock lines. I really don’t know what the value of one of the single line “Stanley” caps for a #2 is, but because they are more common than earlier caps that were marked as “Bedrock”, due to being used on both lines of planes, that is why they sell for quite a bit less than earlier types.

Personally, I’d kill any active rust and leave the cap on the plane until you find a correct one. That might take a while, so no reason to leave the plane incomplete until then.

Earlier Bedrocks, with two and three line caps, had japanning behind the letters. I don’t believe any of the single line ones did, whether marked “Bedrock” or “Stanley” (really late ones with the kidney shaped hole had that hideous orange paint, but not japanning)

-- In matters of style, swim with the current; in matters of principle, stand like a rock. Thomas Jefferson

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Marn64

295 posts in 623 days


#5 posted 07-12-2017 05:45 PM


Starting with the type 7 Bedrocks, Stanley used the exact same lever caps for both the Bailey and Bedrock lines. I really don t know what the value of one of the single line “Stanley” caps for a #2 is, but because they are more common than earlier caps that were marked as “Bedrock”, due to being used on both lines of planes, that is why they sell for quite a bit less than earlier types.

Personally, I d kill any active rust and leave the cap on the plane until you find a correct one. That might take a while, so no reason to leave the plane incomplete until then.

Earlier Bedrocks, with two and three line caps, had japanning behind the letters. I don t believe any of the single line ones did, whether marked “Bedrock” or “Stanley” (really late ones with the kidney shaped hole had that hideous orange paint, but not japanning)

- JayT


That is actually a pretty good idea, I still need to find a blade and chipbreaker for this plane, I will keep the bent chipbreaker so I still technically have the original part. Do you perhaps know what the period correct blade would look like (in terms of the stanley markings at the top?) As for the lever cap, I am almost certain there is japanning on this lever cap, take a look at this pic I took. The glossiness of the japanning doesn’t show up in the picture, and a lot of it has worn off, but it sure looks like japanning to me.

-- Benjamin, Milwaukee

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Smitty_Cabinetshop

14847 posts in 2455 days


#6 posted 07-12-2017 06:08 PM

This from Leach’s Blood and Gore site, re: dating your bedrock via lever cap (japanned or otherwise, as he doesn’t say one way or another):


... there are some other telltale ways to date your Bed Rocks. Chief among the other ways is the lever cap and its embossing. The earliest models have “STANLEY/R. & L. Co./BED ROCK” cast in three separate lines (that’s what the / means). Starting around 1910, the lever caps have “STANLEY/BED ROCK” in two lines. A few years later, just “BED ROCK” is cast. From ca. 1925 onward, “STANLEY” is all that appears.

Using that info, a SW-logo’d cutter would be appropriate to your plane.

EDIT: See fine print under Type 13, Subsection #1 here.

-- Don't anthropomorphize your handplanes. They hate it when you do that. -- OldTools Archive --

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Marn64

295 posts in 623 days


#7 posted 07-13-2017 12:51 AM



This from Leach s Blood and Gore site, re: dating your bedrock via lever cap (japanned or otherwise, as he doesn t say one way or another):

... there are some other telltale ways to date your Bed Rocks. Chief among the other ways is the lever cap and its embossing. The earliest models have “STANLEY/R. & L. Co./BED ROCK” cast in three separate lines (that s what the / means). Starting around 1910, the lever caps have “STANLEY/BED ROCK” in two lines. A few years later, just “BED ROCK” is cast. From ca. 1925 onward, “STANLEY” is all that appears.

Using that info, a SW-logo d cutter would be appropriate to your plane.

EDIT: See fine print under Type 13, Subsection #1 here.

- Smitty_Cabinetshop


The 602 I have is a type 3 (1900-1903), the lever cap is not original. Would the blade have been a sweetheart back in 1900?

-- Benjamin, Milwaukee

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JayT

5453 posts in 2048 days


#8 posted 07-13-2017 01:34 AM

No, it would have been a two line stamp on the iron. Stanley on top with Pat Ap’l 19.92 on the second line.

Here is the best Bedrock type study out there.

-- In matters of style, swim with the current; in matters of principle, stand like a rock. Thomas Jefferson

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Smitty_Cabinetshop

14847 posts in 2455 days


#9 posted 07-13-2017 04:46 AM

Nope. SW matches the cap. JayT is correct. Just know that not all planes left the Stanley factory in accordance with the type studies. They weren’t aware of the studies. They cranked out product and many times used up inventory with “mismatched” parts with reckless abandon. So, your plane may have had that lever cap since the beginning. They made have found your ‘earlier’ body and sold it, no problem, with a later lever cap and a SW cutter. Or not. Who’s to say for sure?

-- Don't anthropomorphize your handplanes. They hate it when you do that. -- OldTools Archive --

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