Help on finishing

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Forum topic by sandhill posted 12-23-2010 07:44 PM 1153 views 0 times favorited 6 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View sandhill's profile


2128 posts in 3348 days

12-23-2010 07:44 PM

Topic tags/keywords: finishing

I was thinking I would try a new approach for my questions and they would be better understood in this little video “A picture is worth a thousand words” comes to mind.

6 replies so far

View CharlesNeil's profile


1602 posts in 3294 days

#1 posted 12-23-2010 11:20 PM

lets get these handled, nice panels, your problem is your not done applying finish, give them about a 400 or 600 light sand, then lay them flat , and using a foam brush lay on a nice wet coat of the arm r seal, and let it dry, then sand it back, and see if the pores are filled, you simply need to build more finish up, and 60 degress is fine for arm r seal, will dry slower but it will do ok , if you need more or have questions post here or email me, glad to help

View DonH's profile


494 posts in 2241 days

#2 posted 12-23-2010 11:32 PM

Good idea with the video.

I have worked with quilted makore before and it is a pretty tough wood. I didn’t have the pore issue with the stuff I bought as the grain was really tight and a few coats of tung oil did the job.

Recently I just completed finishing some tables with chamoire mahogany tops. This is wild grain with a lot of reversals and very open for half the twists and tight for the other half. I followed the basic process that Charles outlined but it took lots of coats (again I was using tung oil) I would say well over 30 coats with in between sanding for the first 15 or so then 0000 steel wool from then on. In the end a mirror finish but the point is that do not be surprised if you end up with a large number of coats if the grain is really open. The quilted makore looks great with that mirror like finish so it is worth pursuing. The nice thing about finishing is that if you are not happy just put on another coat until you are…simple!

Best of the season to you


-- DonH Orleans Ontario

View CharlesNeil's profile


1602 posts in 3294 days

#3 posted 12-23-2010 11:51 PM

don is correct, however arm r seal will build much quicker than tung oil, it also dries very well, and laying it flat and layin down a wet coat helps buiild it faster, just keep an eye on it and dont get too carried away, and have it run over the edges and under , it takes about an hour or so for it, to tack up and not run

but he is also correct, you have to get sufficent build, and it has to dry, oild go on super thin, so many coats can be needed , usually 4 or maybe 5 of the arm r seal will handle most wood, cherry, maple, 3 coat because its a denser wood,

View RickLoDico's profile


55 posts in 2485 days

#4 posted 12-24-2010 12:25 AM

I don’t have your answer but wanted to say that a video question was an excellent idea. Hopefully we’ll start seeing more of them around the forums. Well spoken too, BTW.

-- He who fights with monsters might take care lest he thereby become a monster. And if you gaze for long into an abyss, the abyss gazes also into you.

View sandhill's profile


2128 posts in 3348 days

#5 posted 12-24-2010 01:09 AM

Thank you for the help Charles and Don, that sure clears it up for me and as I suspected I needed to build up a few more coats but was not sure. I have put the first coat of Charles Neils sealer on all the cherry parts and will give them all another coat tomorrow then apply the stain after Christmas.
Charles, 60 degrees may be fine for finishing but I was talking about it being to cold for me! LOL Got spoiled down here in Florida and have to ware a coat below 70 degrees. Thanks again guys

Rick glad you enjoyed the video it makes asking a question a lot easier and more personnel. I think I will use this method more and more when I feel it necessary to make things clearer.

View sandhill's profile


2128 posts in 3348 days

#6 posted 01-06-2011 08:44 AM

Thanks guys

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