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Question about danish oil...

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Forum topic by Mark posted 12-23-2010 05:52 PM 1182 views 0 times favorited 9 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Mark

1801 posts in 2738 days


12-23-2010 05:52 PM

Topic tags/keywords: question

So I have dansih oil, I’ve used it for very minor things but I’ve never finished a nice project with it. I was browsing at this one project which I loved and the finish was great. The finish was danish oil. I wanna try it but I don’t know what to expect from danish oil or any steps before or during the application. I want to practice before anything. any ideas?

-- M.K.


9 replies so far

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patron

13537 posts in 2805 days


#1 posted 12-23-2010 06:03 PM

it will darken the wood
let it ‘cure’ for a bit
and then add more
wipe after a few minutes
and let dry good
more if you like
after it has cured good
wax away

i believe only lacquer and varnish
don’t darken the wood

-- david - only thru kindness can this world be whole . If we don't succeed we run the risk of failure. Dan Quayle

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Mark

1801 posts in 2738 days


#2 posted 12-23-2010 06:09 PM

and what do u wax with?

-- M.K.

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patron

13537 posts in 2805 days


#3 posted 12-23-2010 06:11 PM

min-wax natural
or renaissance wax
just not liquid car wax

-- david - only thru kindness can this world be whole . If we don't succeed we run the risk of failure. Dan Quayle

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TheDane

4997 posts in 3127 days


#4 posted 12-23-2010 07:08 PM

I use Watco Danish Oil, and apply as Patron suggested. After the second coat, I let it dry for about a week, then apply topcoat (usually wipe-on poly). After the poly cures for a few days, I use Renaissance wax.

—Gerry

-- Gerry -- "I don't plan to ever really grow up ... I'm just going to learn how to act in public!"

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Mark

1801 posts in 2738 days


#5 posted 12-23-2010 07:17 PM

thx patron and gerry…I’m curious as to using it on future projects.

-- M.K.

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Rick Dennington

5179 posts in 2659 days


#6 posted 12-23-2010 09:14 PM

Hi Mark,
Haven’t talked to you in a while….been really busy in my shop. About the Danish Oil…. I think Gerry and David gave you some good, sound advice on its use…. Here’s what I’m doing now (for the past month). I bought a BIG (73”) HD tv before Thanksgiving, and I needed a entertainment center to house all the surround sound components. So I designed a cabinet to do just that. It’s made of 3/4” oak ply and solid oak facing to cover the raw ply edges. After I got the cabinet and the drawers built (sanding all the parts before assembly), I wiped it down with mineral spirits (I hate tack cloths), let it dry for about an hour (the spirits will show you what the wood is going to look like with a finish on it), and applied the first coat of Danish Oil. Saturate the wood really good (flood it), and wipe it down in about 30-40 minutes, letting the oil soak in. Then I waited about 12-14 hours to put the 2nd coat on (that was this morning) let it soak for another 30 minutes, and wipe it down. Gerry said he let his dry for a week, but I think you can apply your top coat in about 72 hours or so. Either way is fine. I usually put 1-2 coats of oil, and 2-3 coats of a mostly wipe-on poly. I’m at the point now where I’ve got to wait that 72 hrs. or so. But….I don’t think you need to rely just on the Danish Oil only for a finish personally….It’s not hard enough to protect the wood for good protection from scratches, spills, etc. Anyway…...that’s my take on Danish Oil and how I use it. Done that many times for customers. I guess they liked it…..haven’t had a return yet…..lol. Good luck with your project, Mark.

-- At my age, an "all--nighter" is not having to get up and pee...!!!

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TheDane

4997 posts in 3127 days


#7 posted 12-23-2010 09:49 PM

Just a quick followup on the waiting time after the second coat … I have had a few instances when the Danish Oil would ‘pop’ thru the poly (looked like little beads of brown sweat). I have found the longer I let it dry, the lower the chances of this happening, and since I don’t do this for a living, time isn’t so much of a factor.

This probably relates to temperature and humidity in the shop … the stock itself was at about 8%, but in the summer time the ambient temperature and humidity can be fairly high in my shop. This past summer, I started running a dehumidifier in the shop, which seems to eliminate the problem.

If this happens, just wait until the poly dries, then wipe the beads off with a clean cloth, then sand and apply additional coat(s) of poly.

And Rick is right … Danish Oil by itself doesn’t afford much protection. It is okay for stuff that gets no traffic (e.g. picture frames, etc.), but if the piece is going to get a lot of wear, poly is good … lacquer may be better. When I do wipe-on poly, I never do less than 4 coats.

—Gerry

-- Gerry -- "I don't plan to ever really grow up ... I'm just going to learn how to act in public!"

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Mark

1801 posts in 2738 days


#8 posted 12-24-2010 01:07 AM

okay thx alot rick and gerry, I was kinda hoping someone would tell me how durable danish oil would be by itself. My head is full of info now. Thanx again

-- M.K.

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canadianchips

2354 posts in 2461 days


#9 posted 12-24-2010 01:57 AM

Mark. I used WATCO oil lots. Back in the day ….when mahogany was in and affordable all my finisher ever used was Danish oil.The secret is to let it dry a long time. MOST people quit using it because of the time it takes to finish a piece of work. The beauty of it is: if you do scratch your work you can apply another coat and blend it in without removing all the previous finish. On tables I coat with wax. (I prefer black bison wax) Once again the wax can be waxed over to cover light scratch marks.

-- "My mission in life - make everyone smile !"

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