| Forum topic by Steven H | posted 878 days ago | 2821 views | 0 times favorited | 11 replies | ![]() |
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878 days ago |
My client wants me build a box (up to 2 FT high) What wood is best for holding the water? Thanks -- shdesign3.com |
11 replies so far
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#1 posted 878 days ago |
Oak barrels hold whiskey so it would have to hold water. Since it probably won’t stay wet all the time, keeping the joints swelled tight, I would look at something like cypress. Or if she would accept a plastic liner you could build it out of most anything. -- Father of two sons. Both Eagle Scouts. |
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#2 posted 878 days ago |
EDIT Firecaster hit reply first :-) I suspect many woods are going to be fine, it will be the joinery since equilibrium moisture content kind of goes out the window when you are going to fill it with water. -- "_If we did all the things we are capable of doing, we would literally astonish ourselves_." Edison |
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#3 posted 878 days ago |
If you seal the wood good enough, any wood should hold water I would suspect. Epoxy is used to seal wooden boats, but you could probably use poly or some sort of varnish I would suspect. When I think of barrels that hold wine and wiskey, I think I saw on the Discovery channel that they are made very tight. That metal band around them isn’t just for looks, it’s for holding the joints tight. This may be hard to do without some sort of device to hold them tight. I know wooden boats that aren’t completely sealed (mostly older boats), are not water tight when they are first launched. What happens is the wood actually absorbs water and swells, becoming watertight. If her soaking box were to every dry out from not being used frequently it may begin to leak. Just some thoughts to consider….. -- Dothan, Alabama Check out my woodworking blog! http://woodworkingtrip.blogspot.com/ Also my Youtube Channel's Facebook page https://www.facebook.com/SailingAndSuch |
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#4 posted 878 days ago |
I saw Roy compress the grain on a wood box for hold water. The compressed the grain beating it down with a narrow object, planed it somoth. When it was assembled, the compressed grain swelled up and it was water tight ;-)) Might give a little extra insurance it that technique is used in the joints. -- "some old things are lovely, warm still with life ... of the forgotten men who made them." - D.H. Lawrence Wake Up America!! Please read; http://www.commondreams.org/view/2009/01/26-0 |
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#5 posted 878 days ago |
These guys make wooden bathtubs, try their link through custom made. http://www.custommade.com/subscriber-site/2475/official -- Karen - a little bit of stupid goes a long way |
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#6 posted 878 days ago |
Along Sailor’s thoughts, when building a strip built kayak you wrap the hull inside and out with fiberglass and epoxy. Something like a tub would be a breeze and allow use of almost any wood and add in some design work if desired. |
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#7 posted 878 days ago |
I would consider a fiberglass covering on the inside similar to the sheathing wooden canoe builders use. That way you can use any wood you want regardless of the water tight capabilities. -- Max the "night janitor" at www.hardwoodclocks.com |
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#8 posted 877 days ago |
Some species of oak work, others don’t. Southern red oak, for instance, has open tubercules that feed the sap. Water will run out of it like it is filled with pin holes. Most (all but about 5 species) of white oak have closed tubercules, so hold liquids well. This is what is used for water and wine casks. Redwood (sequoia) is also fine for water containers. There are places out west that still are fed by redwood water mains. Neither the white oak or redwood will require a finish, but both will be subject to mold growth, especially the white oak, if unfinished and exposed to daylight. As for glues, I would suggest resorcinol or titebond III. If the water is to be heated much above 100 degrees, resorcinol or epoxy would be better. Construction adhesives like liquid nails work if the parts are clamped quickly, but have very short set times. If fiberglass overlay is an option, go with exterior grade plywood for the base structure. Go -- Go http://ncwoodworker.net/pp/showgallery.php?cat=500&ppuser=730 |
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#9 posted 877 days ago |
Make sure you use White Oak and not Red. Red oak will leak like a sieve. Any species will serve if finished right, but species with diffuse pores (walnut, beech, cherry, etc.) or tyloses (blocked pores, like white oak) are more naturally watertight. -- Nate, thegaragestudio.etsy.com |
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#10 posted 877 days ago |
Charlie – getting deck planks to be water tight would be tough. You’d have at least caulk the whole thing. The biggest problem is that Trex is a composite of wood (wood chips mixed with plastic). Products like Azek are all plastic and therefor water resistant/proof. My deck is made from Timbertech…a wood composite material. I would think any wood you like with some fiberglass (like a boat) would be the best choice. -- some day I hope to have enough clamps to need a clamp cart! |
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#11 posted 873 days ago |
Here’s a good explanation of what makes an ideal wood for holding liquid from a USDA publication: In some species, such as the ashes, hickories, and certain |
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