LumberJocks

How do you feed past the safety wheels?

  • Advertise with us

« back to Safety in the Woodworking Shop forum

Forum topic by Madmark2 posted 07-07-2017 01:46 AM 1075 views 0 times favorited 26 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View Madmark2's profile

Madmark2

372 posts in 424 days


07-07-2017 01:46 AM

Topic tags/keywords: jig question tablesaw milling board buddies

How do you get a push stick past?

Is this really a ‘safety’ tool?

M


26 replies so far

View Loren's profile (online now)

Loren

9623 posts in 3483 days


#1 posted 07-07-2017 01:53 AM

Use a push stick in each hand. Different
shapes are available, some of which can be
held on the corner of the stock. Switch
hands as needed.

I have Board Buddies. I used them for
a few years but don’t anymore. My favorite
similar safety device is a magnetic
featherboard.

View Madmark2's profile

Madmark2

372 posts in 424 days


#2 posted 07-07-2017 02:00 AM

I was always told not to swap hands as this causes a full release of the stock & hence a safety violation.

How are you going to push between the two or past the blade?

I really don’t see a safety improvement, or am I wrong?

Lets hear from someone that owns a set.

M

View Loren's profile (online now)

Loren

9623 posts in 3483 days


#3 posted 07-07-2017 02:04 AM

I do own a set.

View HTown's profile

HTown

77 posts in 1022 days


#4 posted 07-07-2017 02:07 AM

I’ve got the Jessem version. The wheels keep the stock tight to the fence and prevent it from kicking back. If it posts properly, here is an image of a push stick I copied from a FWW article

.

View Madmark2's profile

Madmark2

372 posts in 424 days


#5 posted 07-07-2017 02:10 AM

No, I want to know how they improve safety. I have a full assortment of push blocks, the stick, the shoe, the pad. I can’t see how any will work with this gadget. If you can explain how you would do it, that would be helpful.

M

HTown, I can see how that might work but it would help if the manual gave a hint. Lol

View HTown's profile

HTown

77 posts in 1022 days


#6 posted 07-07-2017 02:16 AM

The push part of the stick I posted is only 3/8 thick and passes under the wheels. It is fed flat, parallel to the table, just like the picture. Hope that helps

View Madmark2's profile

Madmark2

372 posts in 424 days


#7 posted 07-07-2017 02:28 AM

Yeah, I was thinking something similar. The manual says “feed the stock” but doesn’t suggest how or with what

Loren: why did you stop using them?

M

View pirate's profile

pirate

19 posts in 3022 days


#8 posted 07-07-2017 02:30 AM

Just make a push stick, that fits. In the picture, there is room under the wheel.

View TungOil's profile

TungOil

746 posts in 331 days


#9 posted 07-07-2017 02:32 AM

I have a set of these, but I use them on my shaper when raising panels.

-- The optimist says "the glass is half full". The pessimist says "the glass is half empty". The engineer says "the glass is twice as big as it needs to be"

View jbay's profile

jbay

1856 posts in 735 days


#10 posted 07-07-2017 02:36 AM

Use wider stock!

Works great for cutting dado’s. Holds the boards down flat and secure. That’s safer.
Keeps longer boards from falling off the end of your saw when you don’t have a out fall table. That’s safer.
Safety starts with you. Using any fam dam item depends on how well you utilize it.

If you can’t figure out how to safely utilize it for yourself then you should pass on purchasing them.
But there are advantages using them for certain things.

-- If anyone would like to see my Portfolio, PM me and I would be glad to send you the link.

View Loren's profile (online now)

Loren

9623 posts in 3483 days


#11 posted 07-07-2017 02:37 AM

I found mag featherboards faster to set up
and in any case, as long as constant pressure
is applied in pushing the stock, kickback is
uncommon. It’s a risk I’m willing to take
and most of the time I rip without any safety
devices except a push stick.

Where the round wheel things excel is in keeping
stock with a tapered edge tight against the
fence, a situation where featherboards on
the waste side lose contact. They do a good
job I think but are fussy to set up for thickness
variations. Using those I would start out
ripping a 4’ board pushing by right hand, pick
up a corner or side push stick when my
hand neared the blade, using my left hand,
then, when the cutting was done push the
ripped-to-width piece off with a long push
stick held flat against the table.

View Madmark2's profile

Madmark2

372 posts in 424 days


#12 posted 07-07-2017 02:50 AM

How about when resawing?

For the shaper they make perfect sense.

M
.

View RobS888's profile

RobS888

2316 posts in 1681 days


#13 posted 07-07-2017 03:26 AM



I was always told not to swap hands as this causes a full release of the stock & hence a safety violation.

How are you going to push between the two or past the blade?

I really don t see a safety improvement, or am I wrong?

Lets hear from someone that owns a set.

M

- Madmark2

The wheels will keep it in position, so no loss of control. The yellow ones only go forward and pull the stock into the fence.

-- I always suspected many gun nuts were afraid of something, just never thought popcorn was on the list.

View HorizontalMike's profile

HorizontalMike

7656 posts in 2750 days


#14 posted 07-07-2017 01:12 PM

I have owned my Board Buddies for +6yr and love them.

That said, they are best with wider stock, thus allowing you to set the yellow wheels farther away from the fence. That in turn allows one to use a longer narrow push stick between the fence and the wheel.

I also use a second push stick, rear of the TS blade, to hold the piece against the fence. Never use the second push stick from blade forward, which would pinch the cut.

FWIW, I have used two Grippers when cutting narrow strips, placing the narrow cut between the fence and the blade. I DO NOT LIKE THAT SET UP. As a matter of fact I have ruined the 1/4” narrow Gripper fence when doing so. I no longer will use Grippers in that manner, as I find it to actually be hazardous to do so.

BOTTOM LINE—Use a wider piece of wood when using the Yellow Board buddies, even when cutting narrow strips. Just make the narrow strips/cuts outside of the blade side, so that they don’t/can’t bind. After the board gets to be just 2-3” wide, get another board to cut strips from. My 2-cents…

-- HorizontalMike -- "Woodpeckers understand..."

View dbeck's profile

dbeck

45 posts in 195 days


#15 posted 07-07-2017 01:43 PM

Thanks for starting this topic, i as well have wondered at times if these would be a benefit or not. Great advice from the experienced fellows.

showing 1 through 15 of 26 replies

Have your say...

You must be signed in to reply.

DISCLAIMER: Any posts on LJ are posted by individuals acting in their own right and do not necessarily reflect the views of LJ. LJ will not be held liable for the actions of any user.

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics

HomeRefurbers.com