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can I laminate boards for this project or do I need larger stock?

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Forum topic by leftcoaster posted 07-06-2017 01:46 PM 973 views 0 times favorited 8 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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leftcoaster

189 posts in 714 days


07-06-2017 01:46 PM

I’m interested in building John White’s New-Fangled Workbench, which is made from surfaced dimensional lumber (doug fir). Haven’t bought the plans yet but I do have the article from FWW and he says he used kiln dried 2×10s and 2×12s so that he could be choosy about what to use where.

The lumberyards near me have kiln dried 2×4s but only green wood in larger sizes. I don’t have the space to dry it for months myself.

Looking at the legs and stretcher—could I laminate 2×4s to get the wider stock? Or should I make a somewhat lengthy trek to a yard that has larger KD lumber? They will transfer boards closer to me, but only in the amount I need, which means I can’t choose boards.

https://www.tauntonstore.com/new-fangled-workbench-065113.html


8 replies so far

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leftcoaster

189 posts in 714 days


#1 posted 07-06-2017 01:51 PM

No sooner did I post this than a contractor friend let me know of a somewhat nearby yard that has what I need. Thanks!

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TheFridge

8323 posts in 1324 days


#2 posted 07-06-2017 01:52 PM

Laminating is perfectly fine

-- Shooting down the walls of heartache. Bang bang. I am. The warrior.

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builtinbkyn

1924 posts in 778 days


#3 posted 07-06-2017 02:06 PM

Interesting bench. Here’s a link with a video of how it’s used and operates.

http://www.finewoodworking.com/2007/03/23/new-fangled-workbench-revisited

-- Bill, Yo!......in Brooklyn & Steel City :)

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jonah

1468 posts in 3137 days


#4 posted 07-06-2017 02:18 PM

2×4s are fine in a pinch, but not optimal because you can’t cut around knots and pith. With 2×10s or 2×12s, for example, you can cut the pith out of the center (lots will have pith in them) and theoretically end up with quarter-sawn boards. And you can still get a 3-4 inch thick top. 2×8s you will likely not be able to cut around knots as easily, since you have less width to work with. If you want a 3” thick top, 2×10s are the sweet spot IMO.

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leftcoaster

189 posts in 714 days


#5 posted 07-06-2017 02:41 PM

Would you all expect this bench to have enough weight to not move around when planing? And would the doug fir stay flat?

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builtinbkyn

1924 posts in 778 days


#6 posted 07-06-2017 02:43 PM

This bench uses the face grain as the work surface. Good quality kiln dried 2×4s will work for pretty much the entire build, from what I see. Easier on the back when loading and unloading ;)

-- Bill, Yo!......in Brooklyn & Steel City :)

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builtinbkyn

1924 posts in 778 days


#7 posted 07-06-2017 02:44 PM



Would you all expect this bench to have enough weight to not move around when planing? And would the doug fir stay flat?

- leftcoaster


Well the FWW guy uses it every day. Looks like a good tool. He did make it very long, so that adds to the heft. Those long pipe clamps and the other accessories stored on the bench also help with your concern.

-- Bill, Yo!......in Brooklyn & Steel City :)

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leftcoaster

189 posts in 714 days


#8 posted 07-06-2017 03:28 PM

Here’s a lumberjock who did a nice set of modifications that add more heft.

Reading around it looks like some folks made a few mods borrowed from the Roubo, notably bringing the legs all the way to the edge of the top rather than having an overhang. On the backside that certainly makes sense to me. I’m unclear about whether it’d would make sense on the front—I don’t know enough about the reason for that aspect of the Roubo design.

Would you all expect this bench to have enough weight to not move around when planing? And would the doug fir stay flat?

- leftcoaster

Well the FWW guy uses it every day. Looks like a good tool. He did make it very long, so that adds to the heft. Those long pipe clamps and the other accessories stored on the bench also help with your concern.

- builtinbkyn

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