Hey, fellas!
I'm back with a new idea…and I'd like your opinions!
I don't come on very often, and when I do, it's usually to get your take on things. I like to get the opinions of the pros (because Goodness know I'm not one .
First, a quick intro: Jack Colliflower. I make ZCIs for table saws and miter saws (in the wood working world), and I work on different ideas for tools which (I hope) open up capabilities for wood working. (The last was the Tilting, Sliding Route Table).
First, a question: How do you make "waves" in a piece of wood?
I'm going to explain my project and attach pics of the process.
Nothing too fancy. Actually, I think pics will explain it all. And I've written up a document which is now a PDF which I'll attempt to attach.
I am very excited about this new system! I picture all different exotic woods with a wave to pop out the grain, cabinet doors and sides, book shelves, cutting boards…and on and on. I'm really happy about this one! Only our imaginations are the limit.
The board you will see is oak, and I did the routing with a normal 1/2" straight-flute bit.
As you see the pics, I'll say that the whole process took me very little time. From hooking the board up to the jig to finish sanding, maybe 30 mins? Probably more like 20.
Thanks in advance for your opinions, and please ask any questions!
So…I can't upload the PDF, which means I'll copy/paste the written description.
BTW: I have submitted for patent on this one!
Here begins the copy/paste details of "The Undulator"
The Undulator
The Undulator-as a whole-is a device which allows a wood worker to make "waves" (or undulations) in a board with a hand-held router.
It is comprised of one router plate, two slide guides, two slide poles, one router unit lock, and one undulating jig.
The router plate attaches to the router, and it accommodates the two slide poles which slide through it.
The slide guides slide on either side of the undulating jig (connected to either end of the two slide poles), keeping the router within the jig and on a straight path.
The slide poles connect the two slide guides and allow the router/router plate to slide along the poles (and within the jig), in order to move the router to make cuts in different locations.
The router unit lock is simply a hand-tightened set screw which enters through a tapped hole in the router plate and "sets" into the slide pole. This helps to keep the router on a straight path while cutting.
The undulating jig is the centerpiece. The jig can vary in length, width, height, radial wave, wave pitch and wave frequency-all according to the need of the wood worker's project at hand.
Here is an example of the name of an Undulator unit and the name classification breakdown:
3R-4.796F-0.5"H-6×24
3R: The undulating wave has a 3.0" radius.
4.796F: The wave frequency (distance between wave crests) is 4.796".
0.5"H: The distance from top of the wave to the bottom of the adjacent wave is 0.5".
6×24: The jig is 6"x24" in size
There will be a pre-set selection of undulating jigs for purchase. However, if a wood worker needs a jig with specific geometry, he/she can make the order using the name classification system.
If a wood worker wanted jigs of various sizes and wave geometry, all he/she would have to buy are the undulating jigs and router plates-the slide guides and slide poles would stay the same on most jigs.
In essence, here is the concept in a nutshell:
-The wood worker chooses the Undulator jig set that he/she thinks will fit his/her needs. (The correct size and geometry shape.)
-The board is attached to the jig by means of screwing through the jig and into the board.
-The jig and board are then secured to either a table top (by means of screwing through the jig and into the table top) or a "sacrificial board" which is then clamped to a surface.
-The router is attached to the router plate.
-The router unit is placed on the undulating jig.
-The bit depth and placement is set and the lock is engaged.
-A pass is made along the length of the jig.
-The router unit then takes a step over, is re-locked into place, and is ready for another pass.
-Once the board is routed, it is removed from the jig and the two ends are cut off. (The two sections which were screwed into the jig and were not routed.)
http://i1055.photobucket.com/albums/s509/jcolliflower/IMG2222zps8187b28f.jpg!
p://i1055.photobucket.com/albums/s509/jcolliflower/IMG2218zpsd15ef477.jpg!
I'm back with a new idea…and I'd like your opinions!
I don't come on very often, and when I do, it's usually to get your take on things. I like to get the opinions of the pros (because Goodness know I'm not one .
First, a quick intro: Jack Colliflower. I make ZCIs for table saws and miter saws (in the wood working world), and I work on different ideas for tools which (I hope) open up capabilities for wood working. (The last was the Tilting, Sliding Route Table).
First, a question: How do you make "waves" in a piece of wood?
Nearly impossible. No real way to do it before now.
I'm going to explain my project and attach pics of the process.
Nothing too fancy. Actually, I think pics will explain it all. And I've written up a document which is now a PDF which I'll attempt to attach.
I am very excited about this new system! I picture all different exotic woods with a wave to pop out the grain, cabinet doors and sides, book shelves, cutting boards…and on and on. I'm really happy about this one! Only our imaginations are the limit.
The board you will see is oak, and I did the routing with a normal 1/2" straight-flute bit.
As you see the pics, I'll say that the whole process took me very little time. From hooking the board up to the jig to finish sanding, maybe 30 mins? Probably more like 20.
Thanks in advance for your opinions, and please ask any questions!
So…I can't upload the PDF, which means I'll copy/paste the written description.
BTW: I have submitted for patent on this one!
Here begins the copy/paste details of "The Undulator"
The Undulator
The Undulator-as a whole-is a device which allows a wood worker to make "waves" (or undulations) in a board with a hand-held router.
It is comprised of one router plate, two slide guides, two slide poles, one router unit lock, and one undulating jig.
The router plate attaches to the router, and it accommodates the two slide poles which slide through it.
The slide guides slide on either side of the undulating jig (connected to either end of the two slide poles), keeping the router within the jig and on a straight path.
The slide poles connect the two slide guides and allow the router/router plate to slide along the poles (and within the jig), in order to move the router to make cuts in different locations.
The router unit lock is simply a hand-tightened set screw which enters through a tapped hole in the router plate and "sets" into the slide pole. This helps to keep the router on a straight path while cutting.
The undulating jig is the centerpiece. The jig can vary in length, width, height, radial wave, wave pitch and wave frequency-all according to the need of the wood worker's project at hand.
Here is an example of the name of an Undulator unit and the name classification breakdown:
3R-4.796F-0.5"H-6×24
3R: The undulating wave has a 3.0" radius.
4.796F: The wave frequency (distance between wave crests) is 4.796".
0.5"H: The distance from top of the wave to the bottom of the adjacent wave is 0.5".
6×24: The jig is 6"x24" in size
There will be a pre-set selection of undulating jigs for purchase. However, if a wood worker needs a jig with specific geometry, he/she can make the order using the name classification system.
If a wood worker wanted jigs of various sizes and wave geometry, all he/she would have to buy are the undulating jigs and router plates-the slide guides and slide poles would stay the same on most jigs.
In essence, here is the concept in a nutshell:
-The wood worker chooses the Undulator jig set that he/she thinks will fit his/her needs. (The correct size and geometry shape.)
-The board is attached to the jig by means of screwing through the jig and into the board.
-The jig and board are then secured to either a table top (by means of screwing through the jig and into the table top) or a "sacrificial board" which is then clamped to a surface.
-The router is attached to the router plate.
-The router unit is placed on the undulating jig.
-The bit depth and placement is set and the lock is engaged.
-A pass is made along the length of the jig.
-The router unit then takes a step over, is re-locked into place, and is ready for another pass.
-Once the board is routed, it is removed from the jig and the two ends are cut off. (The two sections which were screwed into the jig and were not routed.)
p://i1055.photobucket.com/albums/s509/jcolliflower/IMG2218zpsd15ef477.jpg!