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Forum topic by christhetalentedone posted 12-14-2010 06:27 AM 1078 views 0 times favorited 20 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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christhetalentedone

30 posts in 2273 days


12-14-2010 06:27 AM

we all know what it is like to have pitch and resin on the blades, but what happens when the inners of a saw is coated in it? most of the castings at least have a few areas of build up, i dont think i have enough blade/bit cleaner for that and $ is a little short at the moment. sooooooo i was wondering if anyone had any tips,advice,ideas or just random crap to throw in.
either way it would be appreciated
Thanks

-- the talented one


20 replies so far

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patron

13187 posts in 2096 days


#1 posted 12-14-2010 06:32 AM

SIMPLE GREEN

spray and let sit
spray and scrub

-- david - only thru kindness can this world be whole . If we don't succeed we run the risk of failure. Dan Quayle

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ksSlim

1012 posts in 1645 days


#2 posted 12-14-2010 06:39 AM

Another vote for SIMPLE GREEN, it works in my shop for blades, router bits and other grubby parts.

-- Sawdust and shavings are therapeutic

View Gregn's profile

Gregn

1642 posts in 1738 days


#3 posted 12-14-2010 03:43 PM

I agree with using Simple Green as well and when working with high resin type woods as Yellow Pine I like to clean this area often as part of my weekly and daily maintenance routine. I even use it on other machines that I use for Yellow Pine.

-- I don't make mistakes, I have great learning lessons, Greg

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Dan

3543 posts in 1635 days


#4 posted 12-14-2010 06:45 PM

Make that 4 for Simple Green! I use it for all my blades, tools, kitchen counters, bathroom floors, ext ext..

-- Dan - "Collector of Hand Planes"

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FirehouseWoodworking

636 posts in 2028 days


#5 posted 12-14-2010 06:46 PM

Absolutely Simple Green. Even better if you can lay the saw over on its side/back/front/other side so that you get to let the Simple Green soak in rather than running off.

I get mine in the automotive section of WalMart.

Good luck! Cheers!

-- Dave; Lansing, Kansas

View childress's profile

childress

841 posts in 2297 days


#6 posted 12-14-2010 06:51 PM

While simple green does work good, you could also use windex, or any window cleaner with ammonia.

-- Childress Woodworks

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NBeener

4806 posts in 1929 days


#7 posted 12-14-2010 06:53 PM

FYI: the Simple Green folks caution against letting Simple Green sit on aluminum for more than 10 minutes.

Just something to keep track of…..

Generally, though, I love the stuff. Use it, 50/50 with water, in my parts washer. Does a great job on my bicycle parts !

-- -- Neil

View christhetalentedone's profile

christhetalentedone

30 posts in 2273 days


#8 posted 12-15-2010 07:57 AM

and now for the second question, i did that then after i pulled the metal out to clean it they rusted right away, what is the best way to phase from water to oil with ought having rust? because now i have to clean it more, which i can do with oil and steel wool but that is even more annoying than what i just had to do. so im hoping someone has a miracle up there sleeve ~crossing fingers~

-- the talented one

View dfdye's profile

dfdye

372 posts in 1792 days


#9 posted 12-15-2010 10:57 AM

I use simple green as a pitch remover, and it works just great.

As for rust prevention, I have never heard complaints about WD40 as a drying treatment after cleaning. I would spray it on and wipe the tools down to get the water away from the surface. After that, 3 in 1 works for me as a normal “wipe down” oil before storage. I know others love camellia oil, but I never have bothered to switch from 3 in 1. I guess when I run out of this can I may consider it. . . .

-- David from Indiana --

View Knothead62's profile

Knothead62

2364 posts in 1716 days


#10 posted 12-15-2010 03:21 PM

dfdye, do you wipe off the WD-40 or oil before using the tools to keep from contaminating the wood? I was working in the shop this week and pondering the same question. Thanks, LJers!

View MedicKen's profile

MedicKen

1602 posts in 2217 days


#11 posted 12-15-2010 03:52 PM

Easy-off oven cleaner

-- My job is to give my kids things to discuss with their therapist....medic20447@gmail.com

View childress's profile

childress

841 posts in 2297 days


#12 posted 12-15-2010 07:48 PM

”but what happens when the inners of a saw is coated in it? most of the castings at least have a few areas of build up”
”i did that then after i pulled the metal out to clean it they rusted right away”

I’m not 100% sure, but it sounds like you removed the coating put on by the mfg. to prevent rust and corrosion…

-- Childress Woodworks

View christhetalentedone's profile

christhetalentedone

30 posts in 2273 days


#13 posted 12-15-2010 09:38 PM

it appeared on the machined faces, and i thought about using wd40 but i do believe it has silicon in it.

-- the talented one

View NBeener's profile

NBeener

4806 posts in 1929 days


#14 posted 12-15-2010 10:20 PM

I don’t think WD40 DOES have silicone in it.

http://www.wd40.com/faqs/

It’s a good go-to for many shop lube tasks, along with white lithium grease !

-- -- Neil

View lilredweldingrod's profile

lilredweldingrod

2495 posts in 1862 days


#15 posted 12-15-2010 11:41 PM

WD-40 in the spray can has paint thinner as well. I’m not sure of the ratio. I still have a quarter drum of the unmixed stuff out back.
I prefer Scheaffer’s Penetro 90 myself. It is the best that I have found for rust removal, preventative and lubricant. Made in the USA in St. Louis by the same family since 1839. Fantastic stuff!

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