LumberJocks

rip blade for ripping plywood?

  • Advertise with us

« back to Power Tools, Hardware and Accessories forum

Forum topic by Beginningwoodworker posted 12-12-2010 01:18 AM 5229 views 0 times favorited 16 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View Beginningwoodworker's profile

Beginningwoodworker

13347 posts in 3139 days


12-12-2010 01:18 AM

I have Freud LU87R010 10” thin kerf 24 tooth rip blade, I am wondering could I use my ripping blade for ripping plywood? or should use my 80 tooth Freud Avanti TK806 thin kerf blade for ripping plywood? That I have on my miter saw.


16 replies so far

View patron's profile

patron

13538 posts in 2807 days


#1 posted 12-12-2010 01:27 AM

a combination saw should do fine

rip teeth are like little chisels
for plowing out solid wood

croscuts are like little axes
chopping across the grain

combination blades
are both mostly
so can do either

-- david - only thru kindness can this world be whole . If we don't succeed we run the risk of failure. Dan Quayle

View Beginningwoodworker's profile

Beginningwoodworker

13347 posts in 3139 days


#2 posted 12-12-2010 01:31 AM

I had a combination blade on my unisaw but it bogs it down.

View Kevin's profile

Kevin

462 posts in 2671 days


#3 posted 12-12-2010 01:31 AM

I’ve used a good combination blade for cutting 3/4 plywood with no problems for quite a long time. I’m pretty sure I always put the good side facing up on the table saw to prevent the most tear out Someone correct me if i’m wrong on that, but for a circular saw you have the good side down.

-- Williamsburg, KY

View Kevin's profile

Kevin

462 posts in 2671 days


#4 posted 12-12-2010 01:33 AM

How many HP is your unisaw? I have a grizzly 1023 3hp and with a 50t full kerf cutting 1” oak doesn’t bog it down at all.

-- Williamsburg, KY

View Beginningwoodworker's profile

Beginningwoodworker

13347 posts in 3139 days


#5 posted 12-12-2010 02:31 AM

My Unisaw is a 1-1/2hp

View Beginningwoodworker's profile

Beginningwoodworker

13347 posts in 3139 days


#6 posted 12-12-2010 02:31 AM

Kevin, I am talking 5/4 to 8/4 stock.

View 8iowa's profile

8iowa

1546 posts in 3227 days


#7 posted 12-12-2010 03:01 AM

Your rip blade is designed for solid woods, and will do a great job in this instance. I would not use it for plywood.

I have the Avanti TK806, and frankly, I don’t know if there is a better blade for cutting plywood. The plywood we purchase today has veneers as thin as 10 thousandths of an inch – I’ve measured. The TK806 cuts 3/4” plywood with virtually no tear out, much smoother in fact than the factory cut edges.

I just contacted Freud this week and was informed that the TK 806 is no longer available. They did recommend their LU74R010 or the Diablo D1080X. Both are 80T HiATB blades with a 5 degree hook, which is virtually identical to the TK806.

My 50T combination blade causes too much tear out on plywood. I have a 60T Freud crosscut blade with a 10 degree hook that does a decent job on plywood, but not nearly as good as the TK806.

-- "Heaven is North of the Bridge"

View Kevin's profile

Kevin

462 posts in 2671 days


#8 posted 12-12-2010 03:27 AM

Beginningwoodworker, that makes more sense now. I mostly work in 4/4 solid wood and 3/4 plywood so i’m not sure how i’d go about it. 8Iowa seems to have nailed the plywood non-tearout :)

Kevin

-- Williamsburg, KY

View Bob Kollman's profile

Bob Kollman

1798 posts in 2657 days


#9 posted 12-12-2010 05:13 AM

My freud combo 40 tooth blade sharp cuts plywood okay to good,
dull it’s barley acceptable to maybe okay. Do with what you have
until you can afford what’s better!!! I don’t have an 80 tooth for
ply wood, but I am sure they are worth the investment.

-- Bob Kenosha Wi.

View knotscott's profile (online now)

knotscott

7218 posts in 2842 days


#10 posted 12-12-2010 06:27 AM

I’d definitely use your TK806 since you’ve got it. It’s got more teeth than your rip blade, plus it has an ATB grind that’ll slice better. If you find that the 80T bogs too much, you might try something like a Forrest WWI or Infinity 010-060…both Hi-ATB 60T blades, which is the cleanest cutting grind for plywood. You could also try a Freud LU79R006 60T Hi-ATB 7” blade for ~ $50….your saw should have a pretty easy time spinning that one.

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View traupmann's profile

traupmann

124 posts in 2253 days


#11 posted 12-12-2010 07:23 AM

Ripping and crosscutting are about lumber. Plywood is both no matter the direction. I have found that I cut 1/4 oversize on first cut, then I get a much better cut on size. Keep the teeth low and if the bottom is important, tape it.

-- chas -- looking for Serta sponsorship to go Pro...

View docholladay's profile

docholladay

1287 posts in 2525 days


#12 posted 12-12-2010 08:30 AM

My favorite blade that stays in my table saw 95% of the time is a 40 tooth Freud General Purpose blade. I have also used a 50 tooth combination blade. They both work very well for cutting plywood, both rip and crosscut. Remember, when cutting plywood, regardless of whether it is a rip or crosscut, you are still both ripping and crosscutting at the same time because the layers of the plywood alternate directions. A good sharp combination blade is the best way to go.

-- Hey, woodworking ain't brain surgery. Just do something and keep trying till you get it. Doc

View knotscott's profile (online now)

knotscott

7218 posts in 2842 days


#13 posted 12-12-2010 11:28 AM

”A good sharp combination blade is the best way to go.”

A good sharp combination blade certainly doesn’t give the least tearout or the most efficient cut. I guess the “best way to go” depends on your objectives.

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View ChrisForthofer's profile

ChrisForthofer

150 posts in 2533 days


#14 posted 12-12-2010 01:46 PM

Get one of the new Freud Fusion Premier 40T blades. Works amazing on Ply and man made materials as well as hardwoods. Little to no tearout on top or bottom with a Zero clearance insert and a finish that easily equals my Freud glue line rip in hardwood. As far as a do everything blade goes in my experience the Fusion is as close as it gets.

Chris.

-- -Director of slipshod craftsmanship and attention deficit woodworking

View 8iowa's profile

8iowa

1546 posts in 3227 days


#15 posted 12-12-2010 03:24 PM

Perhaps some of you will enjoy Nick Engler’s technical discussion of sawblade design features;

http://www.shopsmithacademy.com/SS_Archives/SS109/SS109_Choosing_Saw_Blades.htm

-- "Heaven is North of the Bridge"

showing 1 through 15 of 16 replies

Have your say...

You must be signed in to reply.

DISCLAIMER: Any posts on LJ are posted by individuals acting in their own right and do not necessarily reflect the views of LJ. LJ will not be held liable for the actions of any user.

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics

HomeRefurbers.com