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Forum topic by sreilly24590 posted 06-24-2017 02:41 AM 707 views 0 times favorited 18 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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sreilly24590

87 posts in 271 days


06-24-2017 02:41 AM

So I have a plan and there’s a hitch already. I bought the JessEM Rout-R-Lift II and then looking at table tops and fences I decided on Woodpeckers Phenolic top and their SuperFence. The first problem I noticed was that the holes to mount the router plate to the table don’t line up. I was sure to mention that I wanted to mount the JessEM lift and was told as long as the plate is 9.25” X 11.75” it would fit and it does, the holes just don’t line up. There is a ridge that is narrow and is used for the leveling setscrews. So at this point I have several thoughts, try to find a place near the corners that I can drill and tap or try something along the narrower sides. Another thought to tap holes partially through the bottom of the top and use a strong but flexible metal to use as a spring like clamp to the corners of the top but springy enough to allow the setscrews to level the plate to the table.

Any of this make sense? I can’t believe I’m the first to come across this problem but it’s certainly a first for me. It may help to see what I’m referring to so please have a look at my webpage that has pictures of the router table and lift. I have the lift upside down to show the alignment of the holes. If you mouse click on the pictures it will open to a larger size of the image. See this page

Any thoughts would be appreciated.

-- Steve, Virginia


18 replies so far

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sreilly24590

87 posts in 271 days


#1 posted 06-24-2017 01:52 PM

So a night to dream up a solution and all I came up with is to fill the original holes in the table top where the plate would be screwed down with say epoxy, let cure, and drill and tap as needed. From the pictures I posted it would seem the new holes would be about 1/2 phenolic and the other 1/2 in the filler. Does this sound reasonable? I’ll probably check in with Woodpeckers Monday and see if they have any suggestions. I suspect they’ll suggest using their lift but that’s not going to happen now. I’ve already spent more than I thought I “wood” and haven’t even built the cabinet for this yet.

-- Steve, Virginia

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Markmh1

62 posts in 282 days


#2 posted 06-24-2017 02:09 PM

Would through holes and nuts/washers make sense?

Mark

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sreilly24590

87 posts in 271 days


#3 posted 06-24-2017 02:21 PM

As this is my first time I had thought about that but there are about a dozen setscrews that are used to level the plate with the table. I figured that using bolts would limit the ability to level the plate but maybe if it’s brought to level first using my straight edge as a guild and the bolted it could work. I think the main thing is to mount the plate so it’s firmly in place as well as level with the top. And of course I’d much prefer to not alter any parts more than necessary but want it solid. Maybe drill out the existing holes in the top and use the supplied machine screws.

-- Steve, Virginia

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jonah

1471 posts in 3137 days


#4 posted 06-24-2017 02:51 PM

Just food for thought: a router plus the router lift is pretty heavy. So heavy, in fact, that I didn’t see the need to put more than two screws into my homemade router table extension. I actually question whether or not any screws are necessary so long as the lift fits snugly into its spot.

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JBrow

1274 posts in 759 days


#5 posted 06-24-2017 03:11 PM

sreilly24590,

After looking at the below listed thread, I conclude it is probably best to contact Woodpeckers before doing anything. Hopefully Woodpeckers can offer some guidance or replace the top with one where the corner holes line up.

This thread suggests that drilling solid phenolic is not like drilling wood or even metal. Phenolic plastic is a very hard and perhaps even brittle material that could be prone to stress cracking or maybe even shattering when working near an edge.

http://www.routerforums.com/table-mounted-routing/16146-drilling-phenolic-router-inserts-2.html

But if committed to the retrofit, enlarging the holes in the solid top to accept through bulge head through screws and washers and nuts, as MadMark2 suggests, would be my inclination.

The spring clamps, similar to the kitchen sink fastening clips, might allow the router lift to shift toward or away from the fence, spoiling a cut. Mounting the spring clips to the router lift could also be challenging.

I would worry that plugging with epoxy and re-drilling new holes would be difficult. The epoxy may not be strong enough to last. Also keeping a newly drilled hole going straight where it needs to be could be next to impossible since phenolic plastic is so hard compared to epoxy. For this plug and re-drill method to work, a plug of similar hardness glued in place may be better. And, I am not sure epoxy would be the best adhesive for gluing a plug in place.

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Loren

9633 posts in 3487 days


#6 posted 06-24-2017 03:20 PM

I doubt you really need to screw the router
base into the table. The exception would be
if it’s one of those tables that tilt to vertical
for access to the router. In that case the
screws would keep the plate from dropping
out.

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sreilly24590

87 posts in 271 days


#7 posted 06-24-2017 03:41 PM

Jonah,

The lift is maybe 5 pounds guessing and the Bosch 1617 motor isn’t very heavy. My concern is when using cutters such as raised panel. Not to mention the stiles and rails cutters. There is a bit of play in the plate/table fit as to say it drops in easily.

JBrow,

I agree that a call is warranted as I really don’t want to mess this up. Better wait for the advice from them then to forge ahead and mess up. I just figured I’d post as I figured I wasn’t the first to try this….but maybe I am. Sucks to be first sometimes :(

Loren,

The table doesn’t tilt but again it isn’t a tight fit between the lift plate and the table top.

Thanks for the replies.

Steve

-- Steve, Virginia

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Loren

9633 posts in 3487 days


#8 posted 06-24-2017 04:33 PM

You might consider sawing out the corners
with a fret saw so the hole becomes an
open-ended slot. Then attach something
like these military nut plates on the corners.

http://www.skygeek.com/military-standard-ms21059l3-nutplate-self-lkg-st-dbl-lug-floating-dry-filmed.html?utm_source=googlebase&utm_medium=shoppingengine&utm_content=military-standard-ms21059l3-nutplate-self-lkg-st-dbl-lug-floating-dry-filmed&utm_campaign=froogle&gclid=CIv8goz01tQCFYaPswodAnAMsg

A variety of nut plates, NOS and remnants
are available on ebay.

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jonah

1471 posts in 3137 days


#9 posted 06-24-2017 04:42 PM

Your lift must be lighter than mine (I have an older Jessem lift), because my lift with a big router attached is probably 20lbs. It’s more than stable enough to stay in place during use, at least for my use. I don’t use raised panels.

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Madmark2

373 posts in 427 days


#10 posted 06-24-2017 04:57 PM

No lift but an Incra plate with a Milwaukee 3.5hp beast with a plunge base. There is nothing but gravity holding it down. Solid as a rock even when panel raising. There are a bunch of screws in the table lip for leveling. I dial the front down a couple of mils and the rear up the same amount to prevent feed hangs.

Works great. Lift the whole thing out and drop the router out of the base with one button for full access. Easy-peasy.

M

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sreilly24590

87 posts in 271 days


#11 posted 06-24-2017 05:00 PM

Well maybe I need to worry less and try on some scrap. Looking at yours it appears the fence should cover the back end of the plate anyway so it’s not like it can lift on me.

-- Steve, Virginia

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Woodchuck2010

704 posts in 697 days


#12 posted 06-24-2017 05:05 PM

I have the same lift. I don’t use the hold down screws. No problems. My plate fits good and doesn’t move around.

-- Chuck, Michigan,

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sreilly24590

87 posts in 271 days


#13 posted 06-24-2017 09:36 PM

Actually after looking at the backside of the plate I noticed two (1 top – 1 side) adjuster that can slide over to the side and be locked down. On the above picture, thanks Chuck, you see the top one center and left side centered. In mine they barely reach the edge but I can extend this by wrapping the bearing like backside with electrical tape to expand the diameter or possible crazy glue a large fender washer so it actually captures the sides. Problem should be solved but won’t know for a while as I need to wash the camper’s roof and remove the vent coverings etc..in preparation of doing a rubber roof recoat tomorrow.

-- Steve, Virginia

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sreilly24590

87 posts in 271 days


#14 posted 06-24-2017 09:39 PM

This picture should the belly side and the slider in question is on the right side, centered. the top one is blocked from being seen by the lift itself but its the same and centered.

-- Steve, Virginia

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sreilly24590

87 posts in 271 days


#15 posted 06-25-2017 02:35 AM

Here are some pictures of my cure to the shift . See bottom of page. Would have used my closet rod wood if I could find it. I may make the spacer even with the table bottom and glue a large fender washer to the wood so it captures the sides.

Steve

-- Steve, Virginia

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