Create bevel with a planer

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Forum topic by JCantin posted 12-11-2010 03:45 AM 3219 views 0 times favorited 8 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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179 posts in 3581 days

12-11-2010 03:45 AM

I want to make a version of the beefy mirror frame shown in the current Woodsmith #192. I’m starting with 6/4 oak about 5” wide for the rails and stiles. These are supposed to be partially beveled 10 degrees by attaching a 10 degree cleat to the workpiece with double side tape and then running it through the planer. Has anyone done this before? I tried a test piece and it looked like once the high edge hit the roller it just tipped the whole workpiece until the top face was in plane. I didn’t make too many passes because it was not feeding normally and I had to use a push stick to move it through. The rollers left tire marks on the surface. I have the DeWalt 735 which runs fine on square stock.

I was thinking maybe if I kept running it the blades would take more off the high side the more passes I made and it would tip less on each pass. The feed problem caused me to stop trying though and I’m very hesitant to try it with the pricey oak.


8 replies so far

View 8iowa's profile


1586 posts in 3931 days

#1 posted 12-11-2010 03:56 AM

I think I would do this bevel with a hand plane, just like the old craftsmen did.

-- "Heaven is North of the Bridge"

View canadianchips's profile


2609 posts in 3166 days

#2 posted 12-11-2010 06:04 AM

Some of the big planers do have the option of putting in different profile knives. (Outta my league price range)
I use my jointer. Set the fence to right degree of angle, you are good to go.

-- "My mission in life - make everyone smile !"

View cabmaker's profile


1740 posts in 2978 days

#3 posted 12-11-2010 06:14 AM

As noted handplane is ideal but a jointer really shines on such an operation. Btw, it can be done with a thickness planer but by the time it takes to set up, well, Im just saying. Good luck JB

View live4ever's profile


983 posts in 3179 days

#4 posted 12-11-2010 06:22 AM

A bandsaw won’t give you a very clean finish, but that could also work if you don’t have a jointer handy.

-- Optimists are usually disappointed. Pessimists are either right or pleasantly surprised. I tend to be a disappointed pessimist.

View Gregn's profile


1642 posts in 3153 days

#5 posted 12-20-2010 09:56 PM

I agree with using the jointer or a hand plane as well.
Another alternative might be to use compound miter cuts instead.

-- I don't make mistakes, I have great learning lessons, Greg

View DrDirt's profile


4488 posts in 3912 days

#6 posted 12-20-2010 10:08 PM

The method does work fine, I am not sure what your cleat looks like but it shouldn’t tip.

I usually do most of the “Grunt” work of this with the tablesaw set at 10 degrees. You cannot get the full width for your 5 inch wide rails, however most saws will cut 3 inches – this gives you a good flat surface that your planer can finish chewing through rather than having it try to cut the 90 degree edge sticking up.

-- “The two most important days in your life are the day you are born and the day you find out why.” Mark Twain

View DonH's profile


495 posts in 2987 days

#7 posted 12-20-2010 10:14 PM

I recently built two tables with beveled edges and hand planed them. It sounds discouraging at first but in fact it went very well and I don’t think it was more time consuming than setting up a machine etc. That said, the plane should be very sharp and you will likely get some tear out issues if the grain is complex. If so, just stop short of the final bevel and sand away (not fun but quick in this application, use a block and 80 grit to almost finalize the bevel and run through the grits from there). Using this methodology I did two oval tables in about two hours including pout time when I realized I could only do this (in my shop) safely and predictably by hand.

-- DonH Orleans Ontario

View Gofor's profile


470 posts in 3956 days

#8 posted 12-21-2010 03:02 AM

Another method is to use the table saw. Set blade bevel at 10 degrees with blade up about 2 1/2”. Run through. move fence to opposite side of the blade, flip board over clockwise or counter clockwise (not end to end)and finish cut from other side. Smooth any mismatch with a card scraper, hand plane or flat sanding block.

As always, test set-up with scrap first.


-- Go

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