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Clamping cabinet frame to 45 degree angle

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Forum topic by Momzilla03222 posted 06-22-2017 10:11 PM 637 views 0 times favorited 21 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Momzilla03222

9 posts in 173 days


06-22-2017 10:11 PM

Topic tags/keywords: clamping cabinet building maple pocket holes

New here so I hope my pix post correctly. I’ll be the first to admit, on a 1-10 scale, my skills are level 2-3 & projects I like to make are a level 8 or 9.

So I’m making a 5 sided bath corner cabinet & found a 6 sided Kohler undermount sink. So just the shape will be cool with a single 4” faucet hole in back corner. Using plans I found for lazy Susan corner cabinet w modifications.

It’s maple with Peruvian walnut flooring strips as accent pieces & walnut door.

1st time doing pocket holes. Practiced on pine, then on my maple toe plate cut outs. No problem screwing sides or back. I used soap on screws. Its square…so far.

Problem when I tried to attach door frame into place at 45 degree angles to sides. Clamps slid off. I had glue on it & whole door frame was slipping & sliding. Screws went into cabinet pocket holes & just bounced off door frame. So I washed all glue off & left.

Going back tomorrow to try again. Saw this method to make a jig w 45 degree angle in it. Do you think this will work or is there some other method thats better? Perhaps pre drill holes once tip of screw shows me the location?

Www.instructibles.com/id/clamping-at-ANY-Angle/


21 replies so far

View Rich's profile

Rich

1976 posts in 424 days


#1 posted 06-22-2017 11:19 PM

Bessey variable angle strap clamps should work. You’ll need at least two.

-- No matter how much you push the envelope, it'll still be stationery.

View Loren's profile

Loren

9608 posts in 3482 days


#2 posted 06-22-2017 11:34 PM

I’ve never used Bessy variable angle straps
but I have encountered this problem before.

Lacking special clamps you’ll have to come up
with a way to keep the frame positioned where
you want it. Angled blocks screwed to the
inside can prevent the frame traveling inward.

At top and bottom, with the angled blocks in
place, the joints may be tacked on the ends
with a shop-made variant of “pinch dogs”,
basically a block of wood with two screws
or nails you’ll use to keep the frame aligned
while you drive the inside pocket screws.

Do as many dry runs an needed to make sure
you can close the joints.

View bruc101's profile

bruc101

1197 posts in 3376 days


#3 posted 06-22-2017 11:36 PM

I always use small biscuits to hold any angle together. I took some boards long enough to go from one side to the other with a 45 degree angle cut in them. That gives me a straight across clamping area then.

Agree on the Bessy angle clamps.

-- Bruce Free Plans http://plans.sawmillvalley.org

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Momzilla03222

9 posts in 173 days


#4 posted 06-22-2017 11:40 PM

I’ve never done biscuits. Can’t probably now that the sides are glued & screwed on. That walnut is thin there also.
I’ll see if Home Depot or Lowes has those Bessey angle clamps.
Thanks for the tips!

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Loren

9608 posts in 3482 days


#5 posted 06-22-2017 11:40 PM

Another approach would be to glue construction
paper to the outside of the sides, and then
glue shaped clamping blocks to the construction
paper which will allow you to span the frame
with bar clamps.

The frame will still swim on the glue so you’ll
need to use some means to control the movement
as you tighten the bar clamps.

If you have c-clamps of sufficient depth you may
be able to skip the construction paper and glue.

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Momzilla03222

9 posts in 173 days


#6 posted 06-22-2017 11:50 PM

Yes. I probably have to back brace it to stop swimming action. Without screwing anything into my maple sides. Its an hour away so I’ll bring scrap wood. Lots of it.

I was trying to hold it in place w left hand & use drill in right hand. Nope!

View AlaskaGuy's profile

AlaskaGuy

3637 posts in 2143 days


#7 posted 06-23-2017 01:40 AM

-- Alaskan's for Global warming!

View sawdustdad's profile

sawdustdad

334 posts in 719 days


#8 posted 06-23-2017 02:33 AM

Put backers (wood strips) on the sides so the face frame sits flat against them, with the miters made up. They won’t be visible behind the face frame.

Where’s the cabinet bottom? You need supports around the top, too. They would also support the face frame rails (horizontals).

The 1×2s you have around the top should be 1×4s laying flat (horizontally), mitered at panel intersections, perhaps with at least biscuits, half laps or some other method. You should have one across the opening as well.

-- Murphy's Carpentry Corollary #3: Half of all boards cut to a specific length will be too short.

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Momzilla03222

9 posts in 173 days


#9 posted 06-23-2017 03:33 AM

I haven’t cut the bottom yet. Tomorrow I should get to that. I want the bottom removable for now. Only have 1 bath here, so I won’t cut holes in bottom til I remove old rectangular cabinet & know exactly where drain goes.

The cabinet is just under 2’ x2’. I was reading up on what supports I need for granite over my new hexagon undermount sink & thought these 1×2’s would be fine alongside the maple for plenty of glueing surface area. No?

I’ll take pix tomorrow of whatever progress I make.

I was thinking of using temporary supports across the top to move it 60 miles laying down in my suv when its done. With the bottom screwed down, so top & bottom hold together. Not sure why you would suggest a 1×4 across the top. The sink & faucet don’t leave much opening left. I’m learning here. One problem at a time…first have to solve the clamping issue.

View dhazelton's profile

dhazelton

2608 posts in 2131 days


#10 posted 06-23-2017 11:37 AM

Use a couple of ratcheting straps wrapped around the carcass to pull it together.

View sawdustdad's profile

sawdustdad

334 posts in 719 days


#11 posted 06-23-2017 01:46 PM

The 1×4s around the top, and the plywood bottom, serve to strengthen the structure, to prevent it being pulled out of “square” during handling and installation. Maybe use 1×3s if room is tight.

The point is, your 1×2s, installed as they are, simply fastened to the panels, do not provide any structure around the top. In other words, they don’t prevent the panels from flexing with respect to each other.

The problem you are having with the sides flexing out when you push the face frame into place is due to the fact that you have no other structure to hold the side panels from moving. That is the purpose of the cabinet bottom and the frame around the top.

-- Murphy's Carpentry Corollary #3: Half of all boards cut to a specific length will be too short.

View MrRon's profile

MrRon

4492 posts in 3078 days


#12 posted 06-23-2017 06:45 PM

Tack a batten across the opening ion the carcass, top and bottom. Put clamps on to pull the frame against the carcass until the glue sets.

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Momzilla03222

9 posts in 173 days


#13 posted 06-23-2017 08:54 PM

Almost ready to drill. Rt side needs to come up a smidge.

I did bring rachetting straps & beach towels to go under them to protect wood, but this should do it.

I only have a table saw & jig saws here, so base is ok but needs 1 more cut.

Still plugging along. Door is going to need a lot of sanding.

Now I understand why you brace the top w 1×4! So nothing moves.

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Momzilla03222

9 posts in 173 days


#14 posted 06-23-2017 10:12 PM

No room to drill. Hmmm. OK.
Determined to glue it up before I leave.

These 45 degree jigs do work to tighten it up.

View Loren's profile

Loren

9608 posts in 3482 days


#15 posted 06-23-2017 10:24 PM

Very clever.

It’s often easier to figure these things out in
the shop than in one’s head.

showing 1 through 15 of 21 replies

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