Using a table saw as a Jointer

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Forum topic by DrAllred posted 12-10-2010 09:56 PM 13522 views 3 times favorited 10 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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137 posts in 2240 days

12-10-2010 09:56 PM

Topic tags/keywords: question jointer tablesaw milling shaping

OK, I have seen this but don’t remember where, Using a table saw with a special fence as a edge jointer. Does anyone have any experience with this? Where can I see an example?

That is all for now. Just need to clean up edges without spending money on a jointer.


-- David, Mesa Arizona

10 replies so far

View Jamie Speirs's profile

Jamie Speirs

4166 posts in 2273 days

#1 posted 12-10-2010 10:07 PM

I find it easier with a 3” x 1/2 Router bit and a straight edge.
Do both joints together.


-- Who is the happiest of men? He who values the merits of others, and in their pleasure takes joy, even as though 'twere his own. --Johann Wolfgang von Goethe

View CharlieM1958's profile


16229 posts in 3635 days

#2 posted 12-10-2010 10:19 PM

David, I don’t know if this is what you are talking about, but I have a set of these jointer clamps that work pretty well for putting a straight edge on an odd-shaped board.

-- Charlie M. "Woodworking - patience = firewood"

View Dan's profile


3630 posts in 2297 days

#3 posted 12-10-2010 10:22 PM

David, found this in a search.. I think this is what your looking for..

I built one of these for my TS and IMO its trickier then it looks… I actually scrapped my first attempt and rebuilt another one. The depth that the blade sits into the fence needs to be just right. I have gotten it to work and when I have it works great. I just find it a fuss to set up…

I would go with Charlie’s example as I think that method is a lot easier.. Just clamp and go..

-- Dan - "Collector of Hand Planes"

View stefang's profile


15512 posts in 2751 days

#4 posted 12-10-2010 10:35 PM

I don’t know if a tablesaw blade could ever actually joint a board to glue-up quality. however, If you have a natural edge or curved board you can saw one side straight by using an elongated auxilliary fence. The technique requires that the open ‘U’ side of the board is placed against the fence (the fence must extend out enough so that the entire board length is in contact with the board prior and during cutting). The cut is made on the curved (closed) side of the board. This cut will be straight if the necessary criteria is met. After the first cut, the board can be run against the regular fence in the normal manner to cut the other edge straight.

-- Mike, an American living in Norway.

View littleparker's profile


6 posts in 2321 days

#5 posted 12-10-2010 10:44 PM

View JasonWagner's profile


527 posts in 2597 days

#6 posted 12-10-2010 11:23 PM

Mike – several blades including a Forrest WWII will give a glue-up quality edge…at least to my standards.

I use my router table wing on my table saw to edge joint. I use a flush trim bit with bearing and set the out feed fence (with spacers) to the bearing. Works pretty well. Then I finish on the table saw if needed.

-- some day I hope to have enough clamps to need a clamp cart!

View knotscott's profile


7144 posts in 2792 days

#7 posted 12-10-2010 11:47 PM

Mike – There are several different methods for edge jointing on a TS or a router. Keep in mind though, that all of these edge jointing techniques without a jointer require a flat board in order to get a true 90° edge that’s square to the face along the entire length of the board….if the board isn’t flat, you’ll get some deviation. The vast majority of decent quality blades with 30T or more are capable of glue ready edges.

Here’s one example of a TS edge jointing sled:

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View Loren's profile


8156 posts in 3065 days

#8 posted 12-11-2010 12:22 AM

I used to rip glue joints on the table saw all the time. You need to
use a really good rip blade like a Forrest. You can use a straightening
jig to get one edge straight enough to run against the fence. Most
jigs won’t give you a 90 degree edge, so the first edge is just a reference

The trick to ripping glue joints is a stable, sharp blade (use stabilizers),
sufficient power, and the way you feed the board. “Board Buddies”
help hold the board tight to the fence, but the real secret is feeding
the board in one smooth motion, which may require some fancy
footwork on your part if the board is over a certain length.

You can also rip glue joints with a power feeder.

Ripped glue joints aren’t as nice as well-jointed ones (and doing that
takes skill) and seldom invisible, but they are plenty straight enough
to make a good, strong joint if you put enough glue in it and clamp
the boards right.

View DrAllred's profile


137 posts in 2240 days

#9 posted 12-11-2010 01:23 AM

Thanks for the comments, Dan had the link of the one I saw and that is probably what I will be going for. I know a jointer will be better but the budget is not there yet.

Thanks again and I’ll post on what I have come up with.

-- David, Mesa Arizona

View mike85215's profile


127 posts in 2561 days

#10 posted 12-12-2010 04:57 PM

David…sorrry that I did not see this post earlier. I can tell you that I have seen the jig that you are looking for at Rockler in Phx.
However if you do not mind a little waste I have done this same technique on my table saw without the jig. Just put the straightest edge against the fence and then rip the other side flip the board and rip it again, usually two passes will clean it up to a straight edge but if the board was really bad you will need to rip it four times. The waste is generally not more than a couple of blade thicknesses.

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