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What is the best resaw blade?

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Forum topic by DrAllred posted 12-10-2010 09:52 PM 13323 views 1 time favorited 18 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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DrAllred

137 posts in 2288 days


12-10-2010 09:52 PM

Topic tags/keywords: blade re-saw accessories resaw bandsaw question milling

First, I have searched and seen the reviews for the Highland Wood Slicer blade, and I am impressed with the reviews.

So, here are my questions, I have a Powermatic 14” bandsaw and I have not installed the riser block yet. I have a bunch (8) of 93.5” blades for it already and I want to resaw some wood for boxes, lids, and other items.

So, What is the best blade for this and I would like to hear what people think about their choice of blade?

Also, Should I bite the bullet and put the riser block in and start buying the 105” blades? I am happy right now but I can see that being able to resaw a 10” board in the future would be beneficial.

Thanks for your comments.

-- David, Mesa Arizona


18 replies so far

View PurpLev's profile

PurpLev

8523 posts in 3114 days


#1 posted 12-10-2010 10:26 PM

I just resawed some 8” boards a couple of days ago with the woodslicer, this is hot off the bandsaw table, the cuts are true end to end, and the cut surface is fairly smooth (not planed smooth, but not rough cut either):

the blade cuts smoothly and FAST even though it has a kink in the middle (my bad) it still performs superb,

since you asked – these are 6”+ boards and will probably won’t fit on your bandsaw without the riser block.

you can see a couple more resaw pictures I posted on my bandsaw review here : http://lumberjocks.com/reviews/697

If you are planning on getting a riser block at some point – might as well do it now since the blades will not fit on the longer saw later on.

just my 2c

-- ㊍ When in doubt - There is no doubt - Go the safer route.

View NBeener's profile

NBeener

4808 posts in 2639 days


#2 posted 12-10-2010 11:33 PM

After I finally installed my resaw kit, I got the 105” Wood Slicer.

Amazing blade.

Like PurpLev mentioned, at the time: it’s become my daily use blade, too.

I did, however, buy a 105” Lenox bi-metal blade for tighter curves. I just haven’t needed it, yet.

-- -- Neil

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b2rtch

4822 posts in 2514 days


#3 posted 12-11-2010 01:03 AM

I have a wood slicer but it drifts very bad. Any idea why?

-- Bert

View NBeener's profile

NBeener

4808 posts in 2639 days


#4 posted 12-11-2010 01:09 AM

Bert:

There’s a fairly current thread, over on SawMillCreek, talking about that very subject, right now.

I’ve been exceptionally lucky. My Grizzly, and the blades it’s worn, have been virtually drift-free.

Also, I recently got a MagSwitch Resaw Fence, which—from my early experience with it—would make compensating for drift, in real-time, absolutely simple.

Note: As always, I like to admit that my brother is the product rep FOR MagSwitch. But … if I didn’t like the product, I would simply say nothing about it ;-)

-- -- Neil

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DrAllred

137 posts in 2288 days


#5 posted 12-11-2010 01:30 AM

I have the riser block, it is still in the box, I just jumped in and started working, should have put it on first then bought my blades. If I do add the block then I have to get new 1/4”, 3/8”, 1/2”, and a 3/4” blades of different tooth count to replace the 93.5” blades.

Hard choice, but then from what I have read, 2-3 wood slicer blades of different widths might be all I need.

Thanks

-- David, Mesa Arizona

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NBeener

4808 posts in 2639 days


#6 posted 12-11-2010 01:36 AM

I did the same thing, David: bought the riser kit on day one … installed it a year later, and had to gift TimberWolf blades to my eager brother ;-)

If you’re never going to care about resawing anything > 6” wide, then … you may not care, but … I wanted to have that option—wider board resaw—and had to view the 93” blades as “sunk costs.”

The Wood Slicers are fantastic blades, but …. for fine cuts, and tight radii … I hope I’m not too lazy to change out my blade for my 1/4” 6TPI Lenox Diemaster 2

-- -- Neil

View lwllms's profile

lwllms

555 posts in 2747 days


#7 posted 12-11-2010 02:37 AM

The Lenox bi-metal Diemaster blades have been saving us a lot of money. We’ve used the Timberwolf and Woodslicer blades but they just don’t compare to the Lenox blades. The best prices I’ve found is from Wood Craft Bands. This is a small one-man business and I like supporting the guy as well.

http://www.woodcraftbands.com/

View Mary Anne's profile

Mary Anne

1058 posts in 2674 days


#8 posted 12-11-2010 03:10 AM

I recently switched from Timber Wolf blades to Woodslicers when I added Carter guides to my Rikon 10-325 14” Deluxe saw. What a great combination! I used a 1/2” Woodslicer to cut some 1/8” slices off a 11” tall chunk of oak using just the stock fence and there was absolutely NO drift whatsoever!

View DrAllred's profile

DrAllred

137 posts in 2288 days


#9 posted 12-11-2010 05:17 AM

I am working on bookmarks, and the re-sawing of them I need to be very thin, less than an 1/8th and really straight. I have the Carter style guides that came with the bandsaw, I have purchased an Olson 1/2” 3tpi Hook and it does OK but it is too rough and requires lots of clean up.

I have looked at the bi-metal blades and I want to know if they are smoother than others.

Thanks

-- David, Mesa Arizona

View b2rtch's profile

b2rtch

4822 posts in 2514 days


#10 posted 12-11-2010 01:49 PM

Any one us the carbide tipped from Lenox?
I read good thing about them.
Neil, thank you for the link

I have Kreg resaw fence.
I am not crazy about it as it is not tall enough and for some reason it does not fit my saw very well.
I am going to have to build another fence or an auxiliary fence.
I have an HF 14” handsaw with eh the riser,

-- Bert

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b2rtch

4822 posts in 2514 days


#11 posted 12-11-2010 01:56 PM

How wide a blade for I should I use for resaw on a 14” band saw?.
I use 1/2”.
It seems to me that a wider blade will not drift as bad.
Is 1.00” too wide for a 14’ wheel?
Have a wonderful day.

-- Bert

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b2rtch

4822 posts in 2514 days


#12 posted 12-11-2010 02:08 PM

I just found this website:
http://www.bandsawbladesdirect.com/index.php/cPath/21_28

http://www.bandsawbladesdirect.com/product_info.php/cPath/21_24/products_id/29

Neil witch kind of tooth configuration do you use for resaw and for the other jobs?

-- Bert

View NBeener's profile

NBeener

4808 posts in 2639 days


#13 posted 12-11-2010 05:16 PM

Mine’s this one , Bert. So … 3-4TPI variable pitch.

From my understanding …. there’s a lot of question as to whether a 14” band saw can get enough tension on a 1” wide blade, and … an inadequately tensioned blade is not going to be your friend, for resawing.

A bigger (say, 18”) saw might be able to do it, but ….

And my 1/2” ... works. I don’t (personally) see a reason to go wider, on a 14” saw.

Here’s another link for you (the website is down, this morning, but you can try it later):

I’ve watched this guy for months, now. He’s quite knowledgeable about band saws.

-- -- Neil

View Loren's profile

Loren

8313 posts in 3113 days


#14 posted 12-11-2010 07:05 PM

I think most of the smaller saws don’t have enough room for running
wider blades inside – the wheels are too shallow and you run the risk of
stripping the tips off the blade teeth if the blade creeps off the front
of the wheels. Unless you know something I don’t about setting up
smaller saws, you’re gonna have your saw throwing blades at the
wheel guards from time to time. It’s just inevitable in my experience –
because I’m not a perfect saw operator.

Bigger saws don’t have this problem much. Wider wheels and perhaps
a heavier build help the blades track better, even when the operator
is not careful.

I use a 1” carbide tipped blade on a 20” saw. The capacity to run wider
blades is one of the main reasons I recommend getting an 18” or bigger
saw if you’re serious about working with solid woods. I’ve used the
WoodSlicer and it cuts nicely, but gets dull. I prefer the Timberwolf 1/2” blades for smaller saws because they are a lot cheaper and can be
re-sharpened easily. They don’t cut as fast as the WoodSlicer, but with
careful set-up they’ll cut just as straight.

View b2rtch's profile

b2rtch

4822 posts in 2514 days


#15 posted 12-11-2010 08:17 PM

Lorn, “I prefer the Timberwolf 1/2” blades for smaller saws because they are a lot cheaper and can be
re-sharpened easily. They don’t cut as fast as the WoodSlicer, but with
careful set-up they’ll cut just as straight”

Timberwoldf says to not resharpen their blades, that they cannot be resharpen. I have issue getting my timberwolf cutting straight when resaw, it drifts a lot.

-- Bert

showing 1 through 15 of 18 replies

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