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Veneer question

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Forum topic by rwe2156 posted 06-21-2017 04:26 PM 489 views 0 times favorited 4 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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rwe2156

2716 posts in 1319 days


06-21-2017 04:26 PM

This is my cello stand project and I am down to making the base. I am considering using this burl veneer but his will be my first attempt at 1) using burl veneer and 2) using veneer that needs flattening.

I’ve watched a couple videos but appreciate knowing how you guys flatten veneer. Plus anything special about using burl?

I was planing to use Old Brown Glue or Titebond II with clamping.

Also, I would like to route a simple roundover with fillet. Should I do this before or after veneering?

Here is the veneer I plan to use:

Here is the substrate:

The finished product will have this shape with a routed edge:

Like the profile on this:

TIA for all your help. BTW I’m still looking for other ways to bookmatch the veneer so as to not waste so much!

-- Everything is a prototype thats why its one of a kind!!


4 replies so far

View Eyal's profile

Eyal

89 posts in 1405 days


#1 posted 06-22-2017 09:43 PM

hi!
veneersupplies.com has detailed explanations on how to flatten veneer.
in my last project, i used hot hide glue and a veneer hammer to lay down the veneer. I wet the veneer with a spray bottle, then used a hot iron to flatten the veneer.
if you’ll be using clamps I’d recommend the other approach from veneersupplies.com.
good luck!
Eyal

View shipwright's profile

shipwright

7781 posts in 2637 days


#2 posted 06-22-2017 10:52 PM

Old Brown Glue is a better choice than the pva as it is a hard setting glue. Here’s my preferred way of flattening veneer.
http://woodworkingmonthly.com/issue-1-04-october-2016/flattening-wavy-veneer
For something as small as what you have there the cauls can be almost any flat bits of metal you can find around and you can likely just clamp them directly with C clamps.
As for matching, here are a couple of blogs that might help.
http://lumberjocks.com/shipwright/blog/41414
http://lumberjocks.com/shipwright/blog/42311

Good luck. PM me if you want.

-- Paul M ..............If God wanted us to have fiberglass boats he would have given us fibreglass trees. http://thecanadianschooloffrenchmarquetry.com/

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CB_Cohick

483 posts in 1090 days


#3 posted 07-04-2017 08:05 PM

I will defer to Eyal and Paul as I have only tried to veneer a walnut burl once. What I did seemed to work well for me though. I got my veneer wet ahead of application by sponging water onto both sides, letting it sit in the resulting puddle, and putting a wet rag over the top while it soaked. Once soaked through, roughly 30 minutes or so, I applied hide glue to the base and the veneer, applied the veneer and smoothed it out with a veneer hammer, put a weight on top and let it dry overnight. It ended up flat with no bubbles, maybe I got lucky.

-- Chris - Would work, but I'm too busy reading about woodwork.

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rwe2156

2716 posts in 1319 days


#4 posted 07-05-2017 01:07 PM

Thanks for the recommends. Here’s what I did:

The veneer was extremely porous so I coated one side with shellac first.

I was going to use OBG but used TBII because I was going to use the iron on technique. I’ve done it before quite successfully but in this case it didn’t work at all so I clamped it.

I found this burl was extremely brittle and hard to cut. I used an Xacto knife. Overally I’m satisfied with it except for some light tear out in the seam but its barely noticeable.

Thx Paul. I’ve seen the mirror technique and didn’t even think about it! But it was a simple bookmatch.

-- Everything is a prototype thats why its one of a kind!!

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