Tablesaw table is warped

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Forum topic by Knothead62 posted 12-09-2010 01:35 PM 3761 views 0 times favorited 11 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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2581 posts in 2385 days

12-09-2010 01:35 PM

Topic tags/keywords: question tip

I was working on a project and happened to put a 48 in. level on the tablesaw. I noticed a gap between the level and the TS top. The right front corner is about 1/4 in. lower than the back corner! I have had the saw for several years so it’s not covered under warranty. It is from Ace Hardware, gift from the Mrs. and our son. Any suggestions as to getting it level? Thanks, LJers!
Nothing heavy has been dropped on it, FYI.

11 replies so far

View patron's profile


13524 posts in 2765 days

#1 posted 12-09-2010 01:50 PM

if it’s the wing
try putting a shim under the bolt
on that side
it should lift it up some
if the top itself is warped

time for a new saw

-- david - only thru kindness can this world be whole . If we don't succeed we run the risk of failure. Dan Quayle

View mcase's profile


446 posts in 2553 days

#2 posted 12-09-2010 02:54 PM

I would like to help, but I need some info. Is it an aluminum top with attached stamped steel wings? If that’s the case anything could bow it. Does anyone else have access to your shop? A teenager sitting on the edge would bow it nicely. Another thought, Levels are not machinist straight edges after all and can themselves be bowed or damaged. In any case, if its aluminum or stamped steel then some careful counter pressure may put you back in the ball park. Again, if its aluminum or stamped, “in the ball park ” is all you can hope for in the first place.

View Howie's profile


2656 posts in 2347 days

#3 posted 12-09-2010 04:09 PM

Throw some pictures at us. It will help a lot.

-- Life is good.

View Knothead62's profile


2581 posts in 2385 days

#4 posted 12-09-2010 06:47 PM

The table is cast aluminum (magnet won’t stick), unsupported under the low corner. The table top bows downward at the corner. The level is straight, checked it against a saw guide. If it was warped also, it would be in the junk pile at the curb. No one would be using any of my shop stuff. I’m wondering if it has been like this since day one.
patron, I’ll mention your suggestion. However, SWMBO will veto that vote.

View Loren's profile


8174 posts in 3072 days

#5 posted 12-09-2010 06:51 PM

I’ve read about correcting bow in cast iron jointer fences. using
weights to counter the warp. Cast iron is a bit malleable – you
put supports under the area around the problem and pile weight
on the problem area until it moves.

This is kind of a knuckle-biting way to fix a machine table, obviously -
and the amount of weight you’d need could be quite a lot. With
aluminum it would work too. Aluminum doesn’t crack too readily
when flexed. You’ll probably need to bend it past the point of flat
and then it will spring back to flat when you take the weight off.
Could take a few tries.

I once fixed up a Shopsmith-made table saw with a cast iron table
somebody’d used as a workbench or anvil even. It had nail holes
in it and a lot of dents. I pounded out the dents from the back
and filled the holes with a welder. The cast iron was pretty thin
with lots of ribbing. Most tables I’ve seen are thicker with less

View lilredweldingrod's profile


2495 posts in 2530 days

#6 posted 12-09-2010 07:10 PM

You might try what I did on my saw top. Before I got my free table saw, some one dropped it of a truck going down the highway. Fortunately the cast iron part maintained it’s shape, but the wings of stamped steel will not.
I built a cabinet and ran support up under the outside edge of the wings.

The aluminum is a bit different as it stretched when it bent. You can not heat aluminum like steel or cast iron to move it, so don’t even try as all you will do is melt it. I would opt for the cabinet and you can find the plans for a very nice one with out feed table at

I haven’t finished my drawers or door, but you can see what I am talking about on my LJ site workshop pics.

View AaronK's profile


1438 posts in 2888 days

#7 posted 12-09-2010 07:11 PM

my cheap craftsman tablesaw has a cast aluminum top too. it is also warped. to help it, i chose a hot summer day and literally banged it into submission: used a rubber mallet and hit the high spots down to the point where it was OK – not perfectly flat, and a little wavy, but better than the extreme warpage I saw before. Do it at your own risk, but it worked out well for me.

View Viktor's profile


456 posts in 2842 days

#8 posted 12-09-2010 08:31 PM

If you haven’t noticed this before, how important it is to have a perfectly flat table? Obviously flatness near the blade is more important than on outer edges.
In any case go to and chances are you’ll find a replacement top that you need.

View knotscott's profile


7147 posts in 2799 days

#9 posted 12-09-2010 10:47 PM

If you like the saw and it doesn’t impact the cuts, go with it. If you don’t like the saw, that deviation is a huge problem and the saw needs to be replaced! ;)

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

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2581 posts in 2385 days

#10 posted 12-10-2010 01:36 AM

Viktor, they didn’t have anything that crossmatched the model number. Maybe I’ll give them a call. Might be cheaper to get a new saw. I’ll see if my engineer son can recommend anything. Thanks to all.

View JasonWagner's profile


527 posts in 2604 days

#11 posted 12-10-2010 02:08 AM

To me, Ace Hardware is one of those places you pay more for things because you want good service and support. Ask them if there’s anything they can do for you.

-- some day I hope to have enough clamps to need a clamp cart!

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