Heston and Anderson Jointer/24" Powermatic scroll saw help!

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Forum topic by jchomme posted 12-08-2010 05:36 AM 5642 views 0 times favorited 9 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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30 posts in 3033 days

12-08-2010 05:36 AM

Topic tags/keywords: vintage planer jointer scroll saw heston and anderson powermatic cast iron

Hello all,

I just found a few vintage tools that I will be working on in the near future. I paid $100 for the Jointer(no motor) and $150 for the scroll saw. Plus $50 for Uhaul so $300 total, I think I still got a good deal.
Luckily. Luckily I have an extra motor.

I really wanted a power jointer, but was a little hesitant about buying the Central Machinery 6” jointer. If I didn’t find this one, I probably would have, Ive read alot of good things about it, especially when properly tuned.

Anyways, I was wondering if anyone could shed some light on a few things.

1. The bed of the jointer is 8” wide, but the cutter head is only 6” I thought it was an 8” jointer, did they ever make jointers that could be two different sizes? The wing span on this thing is about 60” uhh, seems overkill for a 6” jointer.

2. My grandma used to work at emerson motors in Wisconsin and she gave me an old motor she picked up over the years. No info plate. All the info I have is it is 15 amps at 120v capacitor start/run. 3450 rpm. Anyone know how I could find the HP? And if it would run the Jointer?

3. Who uses these big scroll saws ? Is there a type of woodworker that likes these 24” scroll saws. I really just bought the scroll to sweeten the deal. I am finding it impossible to find any value on it.

4. I really like the scroll saw because it is pretty stout/made in USA does anyone think I should just hang on to it?

5. If it has been sitting, should I change out the oil in it; flush out the mechanism and such? what kind of oil do these use?

6. Do I need to get to the bare cast iron to use Bondo as a glaze before I paint?

I know there is a wealth of info here and any input is greatly appreciated. I have attached pics. Also, I am working on restoring an old AMT 14” bandsaw, I will soon be posting all my projects/progress. It is connected to a 1.5HP baldor motor, hopefully I can do some resaw with it.

That is a shop fox riser on there. No indexing pins, epoxied to the lower half. Aligning the halves has been a bear!

9 replies so far

View crank49's profile


4030 posts in 2969 days

#1 posted 12-08-2010 07:28 AM

Don’t know if the motor will spin in the correct direction but otherwise it should work. One horsepower is about 745 watts. Watts is calculated by multiplying voltage times amps times effeciency. Usually can use 85% for effeciency. So: 120volts X 15amps X .85 = 1530 watts, and 1530 watts divided by 745 watts per hp means this is about a 2 hp motor. That should run a 6” jointer easily.

View jchomme's profile


30 posts in 3033 days

#2 posted 12-09-2010 03:22 AM

Thanks for the info, I will be saving that. I’m kind of novice at all this stuff, The weight and size of the motor I described here is lighter and smaller than the baldor I’ve got. I guess it has something to do with how the motor is wound. Also from what I gather a 1.7K rpm motor is going to produce more torque than a 3.5K motor. great info, thanks again!

View Lee Barker's profile

Lee Barker

2170 posts in 2848 days

#3 posted 12-09-2010 07:02 AM

I’d like to see the other side of the jointer before I commented on the 6” – 8” apparent discrepancy. Could you slide the fence off and shoot it again?

Before you go any further, it would be well worth your time to assess the condition of the bearings. They’re easy to replace and not expensive and you’ll probably be taking it way apart anyway to clean the ways. is where you’ll find the experts in this field. Maybe you’ll even find a copy of the owner’s manual!

-- " his brain, which is as dry as the remainder biscuit after a voyage, he hath strange places cramm'd with observation, the which he vents in mangled forms." --Shakespeare, "As You Like It"

View jchomme's profile


30 posts in 3033 days

#4 posted 12-09-2010 07:25 AM

here it is without the fence. The head spins freely, no apparent failures in the bearings, but I guess I wont really know that untill I add power to it. The bed is 8” wide, and the cutter head is 6” wide. It came from a 100+ year old door and sash company here in Macon Ga, so I am guessing the extended length would be good for their use. This thing looks like a toy though compared to the equipment they have over there. They have tons of stuff in use that they converted from steam power

. the drive shaft is 5/8” so hopefully I can get some bearings if needed.

View jchomme's profile


30 posts in 3033 days

#5 posted 12-09-2010 07:38 AM

Thanks for the OWWM tip, found a catalog with the Jointer in it. It only spans 60” actually , my guesstimation seems to be malfunctioning! Yeah, Just a 6” jointer, not like I even need something this big. cant wait to get it going.

View Lee Barker's profile

Lee Barker

2170 posts in 2848 days

#6 posted 12-09-2010 05:52 PM

Since you have it, you will find that you need it! It looks like a dandy, and my friend Greg will be green with envy. If it’s cast iron, and old, he’s got to have it.

It appears to me that the wide infeed table is to accommodate rabbeting on the outboard side—something jointers do real well and we seem to forget that sometimes. The other side, the pulley side, seems to be there to support the fence so you can get the full 6” use out of it.

As for the 60”, the longer the bed, the better the result—straighter and flatter.

For setting the knives, if you’re new to that:

The low tech way is via Tage Frid in his book Tage Frid Teaches Woodworking, volume 1.

A slightly higher tech way (and much faster) is the Magna Set outfit; well worth the bucks. I used mine a month ago, and I’m doing a whole bunch of oak pieces (arts and crafts style bed) and they just whisper across the newly sharpened, perfectly set knives.

What a great find! Your work is going to take a quantum leap upward with the addition of this tool.

Oh, and to make it even better, consider a segmented belt. It’s counterintuitive, but they really do reduce vibration and make a good machine even better.

-- " his brain, which is as dry as the remainder biscuit after a voyage, he hath strange places cramm'd with observation, the which he vents in mangled forms." --Shakespeare, "As You Like It"

View jchomme's profile


30 posts in 3033 days

#7 posted 02-27-2011 09:40 AM

Hello, I just wanted to add pics of the finished Jointer. Really, all I did was give it a good scrub to the Jointer, fashion a dust shoot , sand and paint the Cabinet, replaced worn hardware, added wheels, electriccal, and hook up the motor. Now it needs a good setup and she should be good to go! Thanks to everyone who gave me insight on this.

Hopefully this jointer will see another half century of good use…

P.S. Printed a logo from and put it on the cab.

View Stonekettle's profile


135 posts in 2902 days

#8 posted 02-28-2011 10:13 PM

Re: the scroll saw. That sure looks like a Powermatic Model 77. I’ve got one very similar, and it’s probably the single most used stationary tool in my shop.

When I picked mine up it was in far worse shape than yours appears to be. Mine had been in a highschool woodshop in central alaska. It had been rode hard and put away wet by teenagers for about 30 years. It was covered in rust and goo and caked on sawdust and layers of old lead paint like a WWII battleship. Despite all of that, the bearings and motor were in perfect shape. I took it apart, sandblasted it down to bare metal, repainted it in Powermatic Gold, reground the deck and guides, and put it back together with new belts, wiring, and oil. I added a work light and an independent holder for the air blower. It’s a beast, runs dead quiet and no vibration of any kind at any speed. It’ll cut 2” thick walnut without lugging and it’s safe enough that it’s the first stationary tool I let my kid use unsupervised.

No doubt the PM77 is an old fashioned design, cast iron C-arm, spring driven blade tension. It uses only non-pin blades that are held by set screws, making blade changes a mild pain. On the other hand it takes up to a 7” blade, can cut up to 2 1/2” thick stock, and has a bigger swing than any modern scrollsaw – meaning that I use it for jobs you’d usually use a medium duty bandsaw for, with better precision, a wider choice of blades, and safe enough for a kid to use (NOT comfortable with my 14 year old using the big bandsaw just yet). Another advantage of this design is that you can mount standard sabersaw blades in the botton blade holder and use the machine as an inverted jigsaw – something most modern machines can’t do, comes in real handy for certain jobs.

I see somebody already mentioned OWWM. That site is an excellent source of information on this machine, along with vintage scroller books from your local used bookstore. I’d drain the sump and replace the oil with a good quality machine oil (dependng on use, you may never need to change the oil again). Manuals for the machine are available online, I had no trouble finding one.

-- Jim Wright, Stonekettle Station

View Bertha's profile


13528 posts in 2691 days

#9 posted 02-28-2011 10:21 PM

I don’t know much about scroll saws other than that looks like a very desirable one. The jointer is an absolute beauty & I’ve seen beefy 6” jointers with massive wingspans before. That jointer would be very desirable to me, with or without a motor.

-- My dad and I built a 65 chev pick up.I killed trannys in that thing for some reason-Hog

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