|Forum topic by Jonathan||posted 12-07-2010 09:18 PM||1955 views||0 times favorited||12 replies|
12-07-2010 09:18 PM
I ran into a problem a couple of days ago after resawing some curly maple.
I am wanting to make a serving tray out of this curly maple, so I resawed it on the bandsaw, then ran it through the drum sander to bring it down to 1/4” thick. I am wanting to bookmatch these two pieces as they will be a nice frame around the inlay work that will be going into the center, which will be the PSU Nittany Lion.
The one board cupped a little bit, but the other board twisted/cupped. I’m thinking the cupped-only board can probably be slightly wet down, and made to comply, but I’m wondering if the slightly twisted board is going to be able to be put back in-line?
My biggest dilemma is that I don’t have more than a few days, at the most, as I need to continue on with this project since it’ll be traveling before Christmas. I am going to try my hand at router-based inlay, if I can get the maple to cooperate. If not, I’ll have to compromise and go get a sheet of maple plywood, since I know it won’t be moving at all.
Whether I use these to pieces of curly maple glued together, or a piece of plywood, I will be cutting a dado all the way around the tray sides to support the maple (whichever route I go). So, that’ll somewhat help keeps things in-line, but I’m afraid that the twisted board will do nothing but twist once it dries again, if I mist it a bit, then put all sorts of weight on it.
I was thinking the best way to try and fix the problem is as follows:
If there is a better/faster way, I’m totally open to suggestions. I’m concerned that since it’s winter now, these methods will take a while to work, if they work at all.
I don’t have a moisture meter, but I do have some more curly maple, although I don’t have any with this striking of a pattern to bookmatch. I have checked a couple other similarly-sized section of curly maple boards, and the one also seems to have a bit of a twist to it after resawing.
Maybe I should just go get a sheet of plywood and keep the project moving forward? The thing that scares me with that approach will be when I either go to sand or scrape the veneer flush with the plywood is going through the veneer, so that’s why I thought it would be not only more economical, but a better bet overall if I can somehow fix the boards I have.
I also neglected to mention that I just got a Panel Max Glue Press System. I haven’t used it yet, but was going to when edge glueing these two thin pieces of curly maple together. I’m wondering if I can somehow use this particular tool to my advantage in this situation by wetting the wood down a bit before glueing and clamping it down in this press? Maybe I can run a fan on it, or stick it near a heating vent, or even hit it a bit with a blow dryer? Not sure if it might also be more beneficial to sandwich the boards in between a couple of pieces of MDF after the glue has set up a bit?
Any and all thoughts on this are welcome.
-- Jonathan, Denver, CO "Constructive criticism is welcome and valued as it gives me new perspectives and helps me to advance as a woodworker."