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Q on using thin cut guide for bandsaw

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Forum topic by BlasterStumps posted 06-15-2017 08:05 PM 417 views 0 times favorited 12 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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BlasterStumps

397 posts in 274 days


06-15-2017 08:05 PM

I made a roller nosed thin cut guide for the bandsaw. I’m not sure where the centerline of the rollers (stacked vertical) needs to be placed in relation to the blade. I tried searching for that specific information and all I could find was to do with a “curved” thin cut guide. In that article, it suggests 1/4” ahead of the front of the blade is where the center of the curve should be. For you bandsaw guys and gals, would you recommend 1/4” for my roller nosed guide also?


12 replies so far

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MrUnix

5983 posts in 2033 days


#1 posted 06-15-2017 08:31 PM

Post a picture so we know what you got… are you talking about something like a thin-rip jig (not for curves), or something like the Carter stabilizer (for extreme curves)? For the former, I put it just in front of the blade, about an inch or so – it’s not critical:

(Click here for examples of thin-rip jigs here on LJ)

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - In Dog I trust... everything else is questionable

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BlasterStumps

397 posts in 274 days


#2 posted 06-15-2017 10:19 PM

It’s not much to look at but here it is.

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MrUnix

5983 posts in 2033 days


#3 posted 06-15-2017 10:30 PM

Looks like a typical thin-rip jig… which can be placed anywhere before the blade as mentioned. What exactly are you trying to do with it? It’s not for doing curves, but making identical thickness strips (and used in combination with the fence). Works on a table saw as well.

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - In Dog I trust... everything else is questionable

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Loren

9609 posts in 3482 days


#4 posted 06-15-2017 10:51 PM

1.4” in front of the tooth points seems to
me like a good place to put it.

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BlasterStumps

397 posts in 274 days


#5 posted 06-15-2017 10:53 PM

Just trying to come up with a way to make straight fairly consistent-thickness thin strips. I don’t have a rip fence for my China made Delta 14” bandsaw. I will tackle that next. Then I should be able to use them together. I hope.

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MrUnix

5983 posts in 2033 days


#6 posted 06-15-2017 11:07 PM

Just trying to come up with a way to make straight fairly consistent-thickness thin strips. I don t have a rip fence for my China made Delta 14” bandsaw. I will tackle that next. Then I should be able to use them together. I hope.
- BlasterStumps

LOL – yeah, you need a fence… the jig is only to properly position the fence accurately, although it does also act sort of like a featherboard as well once you start cutting.

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - In Dog I trust... everything else is questionable

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AlaskaGuy

3639 posts in 2143 days


#7 posted 06-15-2017 11:08 PM



Just trying to come up with a way to make straight fairly consistent-thickness thin strips. I don t have a rip fence for my China made Delta 14” bandsaw. I will tackle that next. Then I should be able to use them together. I hope.

- BlasterStumps

Are you talking about re-sawing to make veneer?

-- Alaskan's for Global warming!

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BlasterStumps

397 posts in 274 days


#8 posted 06-15-2017 11:46 PM

No, just thin strips for small projects. I was building a till for a few hand planes and wanted some thin strips for the dividers between the planes. I tried making them on TS and didn’t have a good feeling about the way I was doing it. I then tried it on the bandsaw and like that a lot better but didn’t have a way to keep consistency of cut. I’m hoping that with this little roller nosed guide and a well made rip fence my problems for making thin strips will be solved. If cutting some things on the TS don’t feel right, I either go to hand tools or now hopefully I can go to the bandsaw.
Mike

Just trying to come up with a way to make straight fairly consistent-thickness thin strips. I don t have a rip fence for my China made Delta 14” bandsaw. I will tackle that next. Then I should be able to use them together. I hope.

- BlasterStumps
Are you talking about re-sawing to make veneer?

- AlaskaGuy


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AlaskaGuy

3639 posts in 2143 days


#9 posted 06-16-2017 12:16 AM

Well I’m a dense one. I guess I don’t know what thin strip without some numbers. Like 1/4 by 3/4 a foot long, something like that?

That being said it’s not hard to build your own band saw fence. I have an old Walker Turner band saw I got without a fence so I just made one. It can be as simple as a straight board and two clamps on up.

https://youtu.be/2McXcB9IRbs

-- Alaskan's for Global warming!

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BlasterStumps

397 posts in 274 days


#10 posted 06-16-2017 03:13 AM

1/4” x 5/16” x 20” was what I wanted for the dividers in the till. I think you had it right. Yes, I found lots of ideas online on how to make a fence. One in particular uses angle iron bolted to the table edge and has a block that rides the edge of the angle iron. There’s more to it than that of course but that is what gives the fence it’s rigidity. If I can come up with the angle iron, I think I might have the rest. Also going to order a 1/2” blade hopefully for resawing. I found out I can actually cut pretty consistent thickness with just using my thin cut guide and no fence but the fence will be nice to add. Edit: just watching some videos on DIY bandsaw fences. might not need to use the angle iron. wood should be good if I do it right.


Well I m a dense one. I guess I don t know what thin strip without some numbers. Like 1/4 by 3/4 a foot long, something like that?

That being said it s not hard to build your own band saw fence. I have an old Walker Turner band saw I got without a fence so I just made one. It can be as simple as a straight board and two clamps on up.

https://youtu.be/2McXcB9IRbs

- AlaskaGuy


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MrUnix

5983 posts in 2033 days


#11 posted 06-16-2017 03:30 AM

I’m sure you can get ‘close’ without using a fence… but for stuff like inlays, it needs to be exact – and repeatable across multiple cuts/strips, which is not really possible without a fence. Actually, you could just clamp a piece of wood in the right place and it would do the same. You butt the wood up to the stop, move the fence over to sandwich it, and then make your cut. For the next cut, you again butt the stock up to the block, move the fence to sandwich it, and make the cut. Rinse and repeat.

Another interesting take on the subject is the ‘sled’ that runswithscissors made – which negates having to move the fence for each strip. It can be seen in this thread: Thin Strip Cutting Jig for TS

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - In Dog I trust... everything else is questionable

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Andybb

546 posts in 438 days


#12 posted 06-16-2017 07:05 PM

Like Brad said…....

If it’s going to be 1/4” thick I think I’d use a table saw with a thin slice jig to get nice consistent strips.

-- Andybb - GO HAWKS!

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