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Forum topic by Karda posted 06-15-2017 06:54 PM 729 views 0 times favorited 19 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Karda

829 posts in 394 days


06-15-2017 06:54 PM

Hi, I want to make a turning tool handle, I have a piece of walnut from a log I just cut up. Its big enough to turn a handle but I will not be able to split it for the mortise for the tool. I want to drill a hole for the blade ( half inch shaft carbide tool ) nothing is square or straight . any Ideas on how I can drill the hole so it is centered when I turn the tool, I don’t have a Jacobs chuck so I can’t drill on the lathe.


19 replies so far

View Wildwood's profile

Wildwood

2188 posts in 1975 days


#1 posted 06-15-2017 07:24 PM

If buy this inexpensive drill chuck could drill short handles on your lathe with tailstock support. If want longer handles will have to make a two piece handle. Use tape around drill bit for proper depth. Lathe set at slowest speed, one hand holding the tool handle while orther operates tailstock. Good luck with 750 RMP’s but doable!

https://www.harborfreight.com/1-2-half-inch-mt2-mini-lathe-drill-chuck-42340.html

You might find it easier to mount tool handle in a vise and just drill the hole with whatever drill & bit you have.

If drilling on the lathe mark centers on both ends of the handle use awl to ease make mounting tool handle between drill bit and live center. If wood mounted in a vice just mark center using an awl on end want to drill.

If make a two piece handle turn a tenon on longest part of the handle, drill a hole in other piece to fit tenon then just gle together.

-- Bill

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Karda

829 posts in 394 days


#2 posted 06-15-2017 09:11 PM

thanks that chuck is good to know about it but won’t be able to use it in this case, I try my drill press and try to get it as straight as i can. should I drill before I turn or turn it to round then drill

View MrUnix's profile (online now)

MrUnix

6017 posts in 2039 days


#3 posted 06-15-2017 09:43 PM

It’s easy, and you don’t need a drill chuck on your lathe to do it… Square off the ends of your blank as usual, then take it over to your drill press. Drill the appropriate size hole in the center of one end. It doesn’t need to be absolutely perfect, but get it as close as you can to center and perpendicular.

Then, just mount it up as usual – with your live center centered in the hole you drilled. Once you get it to its final shape, the hole will be exactly center.

Also, you can drill holes in blanks on the lathe by hand, without the need of a drill chuck. Of course, this will require the tailstock to be moved out of the way, so you would need to mount the blank on the lathe using a scroll chuck or threaded glue block. Once mounted, just use a skew or whatever to make a divot in the blank to make it easier for the drill bit to start. I’ve seen people use drill bits in vice-grips, just held by pliers, or with a simple handle like this one I made:

Cheers,
Brad

PS: You can drill the hole after turning it to final shape, but it’s a bugger trying to get the hole perfectly centered. YMMV.

-- Brad in FL - In Dog I trust... everything else is questionable

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Karda

829 posts in 394 days


#4 posted 06-16-2017 03:47 AM

thanks that chuck is good to know about it but won’t be able to use it in this case, I’ll try my drill press and try to get it as straight as i can. Another question, my wood is green The tree was cut this spring. I cut the log up last week. should i wait to turn the blank till i make my tool i don’t know when that will be or can I drill and rough turn it now and keep the ends coated

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Wildwood

2188 posts in 1975 days


#5 posted 06-16-2017 10:38 AM

What is the moisture content of the wood right now? If you don’t know we don’t know! Average MC/ECM for your part of the country for indoor use is 8%. Moisture meter or scales can put you in the ball park.

Can MC be higher than that and start drilling & turning? Yes and no! Only way going to know is from experience.

We don’t know the slowest speed of your drill press, or if have a way to hold the blank when drilling. If want to drill the blank now go for it.

If want to do it now or wait couple weeks or monhs do that.

Some times we learn more from our failures than successes!

-- Bill

View LeeMills's profile

LeeMills

462 posts in 1141 days


#6 posted 06-16-2017 12:24 PM

You may want to check your drill press. I have had two and both chucks in the drill press had an 2MT taper (same as my lathe tailstock). For a long time I would just pop it out of the drill press to use at the lathe, no problem reseating when returning to the press.

-- We cannot solve our problems with the same thinking we used when we created them. Albert Einstein

View Kelly's profile

Kelly

1821 posts in 2784 days


#7 posted 06-16-2017 02:34 PM

For drilling things like this using a drill press, I build a simple support jig [in a few sizes].

All it is a flat piece of ply for the base and a couple pieces joined like a picture frame. With these, I can set square or round stock in the corner and know it’s ninety degrees to the table all the way around.

I have a tall one for things like this, and shorter ones that won’t interfere with the drill chuck for shorter pieces.

View Nubsnstubs's profile

Nubsnstubs

1207 posts in 1570 days


#8 posted 06-16-2017 03:18 PM

When you get your chuck you just ordered, mount one end into it loose, and center the other end at the live center. Tighten the chuck, pull the tailstock out of the way, and use a drill bit held by any good tool that will not allow the bit to spin. Slowly move the bit into the wood stay as straight as possible to engage the dimple from the live center. Once it starts removing wood, it should stay centered until you are done.

When you get that drill chuck linked above, you could use that instead the tailstock if you don’t have the clearance between centers.

A tool like Brad showed is a plus. Only problem, it dedicates that handle to a one sized tool.

I’m using a 3/8” drill chuck off one of my old drills that is no longer any good, except the chuck. ............ Jerry (in Tucson)

-- Jerry (in Tucson) www.woodturnerstools.com

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Karda

829 posts in 394 days


#9 posted 06-16-2017 05:21 PM

thanks for the tips on the drill chuck, I’ll check it out, thanks Jerry I never new you could drill with a lathe chuck.

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EricTwice

230 posts in 373 days


#10 posted 06-16-2017 06:00 PM

You could turn the handle first with the end requiring the hole at the drive end of the lathe.

The drive end will have a hole through it. this allows use of a rod to remove the drive spur from the Morse taper.

Remove the completed handle and drive spur. insert a long bit through the drive unit and realign the turned handle against the Morse taper of the drive assembly using the bit as center. Tighten the tail stock so the turned piece is jammed in place. you should be able to drill the hole you want through the drive assembly an it should be fairly well aligned.

-- nice recovery, They should pay extra for that mistake, Eric E.

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Nubsnstubs

1207 posts in 1570 days


#11 posted 06-17-2017 02:15 AM

Mike, here is what I use sometimes. It works great for pepper mills, tool handles and stuff that is too long to get the drill attached to the tailstock to clear. In other words, if you have 24” between centers, an 18” long piece, with the combination of tailstock, chuck, drill chuck and drill bit, you wont have the clearance to get the hole drilled. With something like this, mount your piece into your chuck, center the piece at the tailstock, tighten the chuck, slide the tailstock out of the way, and then drill out your piece. Some people use the tool rest to support the bit until started, but if you have the proverbial dimple, just get the point of the bit into it, and drill out the hole. I don’t think I would drill any thing larger than a 1/2” hole with this. Jerry (in Tucson)

-- Jerry (in Tucson) www.woodturnerstools.com

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Karda

829 posts in 394 days


#12 posted 06-17-2017 03:32 AM

thsanks Jerry that is a good idea. Gotta save this thread

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Karda

829 posts in 394 days


#13 posted 06-17-2017 04:53 AM

Jerry got a question about the drilling method you outlined, my lathes slowest speed is 750 is that to fast thanks Mike

View MrUnix's profile (online now)

MrUnix

6017 posts in 2039 days


#14 posted 06-17-2017 04:57 AM

Slowest speed on my Delta is ~900 rpm and it works just fine.

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - In Dog I trust... everything else is questionable

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Karda

829 posts in 394 days


#15 posted 06-17-2017 04:57 AM

ok thanks

showing 1 through 15 of 19 replies

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