Bandsaw Blade Advice

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Forum topic by prestonZ posted 12-06-2010 01:02 PM 4366 views 0 times favorited 7 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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11 posts in 2910 days

12-06-2010 01:02 PM

Topic tags/keywords: question

I am about to purchase a Grizzly G0513P 17” Bandsaw. I’ve read it the factory blades for the saw are crap. I’ve also read that Highland’s wood slicer blades are very nice. I’m having a hard time deciding which blade(s) to order. I know the correct length, it’s just the width that is stumping me.

I would like to be able to resaw some logs into lumber, resaw currently stacked lumber to smaller sizes, and perform common cuts/detail work. So, I am wondering if I should buy multiple widths?

The saw can handle 1/8” – 1” wide. Would I want to get a wide blade for resawing and a skinny blade for detailed work?


7 replies so far

View barryvabeach's profile


159 posts in 3011 days

#1 posted 12-06-2010 02:24 PM

I wouldn’t go wider than 3/4 because while a 1 inch will fit, it is a pain to get it on and off the saw. Your plan is a good idea, a wide blade for resaw, and a thinner blade, with higher tpi for curves. I don’t too curved work, so I often leave the resaw blade on, even though it isn’t optimal.

View patron's profile


13600 posts in 3308 days

#2 posted 12-06-2010 02:50 PM

i’ve noticed most of the guy’s that do re-sawing
seem to use a 1/2” blade for that
i have a 3/4” timberwolf on mine (thinking as you may be)
but it is very stiff for regular work

and changing the guides all the time
can lead to mis-adjustments somewhere

i used to have 1/2” regular blades
it was easy to change
without messing with the guides

i will go back to that
when this one wears out

-- david - only thru kindness can this world be whole . If we don't succeed we run the risk of failure. Dan Quayle

View richgreer's profile


4541 posts in 3042 days

#3 posted 12-06-2010 04:23 PM

It seems like those with the more common 14” bandsaw tend to use 1/2” for resawing. I have an 18” and I use a 3/4” TimberWolfe for resawing.

IMO – changing blades is a real pain in the butt. Fortunately, I have another smaller bandsaw (11”), set up with a 3/16” blade and a Carter Stabilizer that does a great job on the fine detail stuff.

As an FYI – Some people advise using your resaw blade only for straight cutting. They think that if you try to cut curves with it, it will compromise the blades ability to cut a true straight line. I partially agree. I think you could do a very gentle large radius curve with your resaw blade but I would never push it to do a tight curve or even a moderate curve.

-- Rich, Cedar Rapids, IA - I'm a woodworker. I don't create beauty, I reveal it.

View Eagle1's profile


2066 posts in 3032 days

#4 posted 12-07-2010 02:10 PM

I have the G0513×2. I don’t like the factory blade I used it till it was dull. I bought the woodslicer blade the first time I used it, I was in aaw. I will not purchase anything else again. The 1/2” resaws fine.

-- Tim, Missouri ....Inside every older person is a younger person wondering what the heck happened

View Bill White's profile

Bill White

4907 posts in 3927 days

#5 posted 12-07-2010 06:10 PM

Unless you’re sawing fresh cut trees you won’t need anything bigger than a 1/2” blade. Now that is just my opinion ‘cause that’s the size I use. I have never needed anything larger.
My standard use blade is 1/4”, 3/8” for some larger curves, 1/8” for real tiny stuff (I’d rather use a scroll saw for this stuff). Get the tension right thru practice, trial and error.
The Woodslicer is an excellent blade tho it does not retain edges well. Olson gets good reviews.


View prestonZ's profile


11 posts in 2910 days

#6 posted 12-07-2010 07:40 PM

Thanks for all the replies thus far.. very helpful. I think i’m gonna get a 1/2” wood slicer from highland and get a 1/4” timber wolf blade with the bandsaw order from grizzly. I can use the 1/2 for resawing and the 1/4 for general/detail work. If I find either limiting in any way, i’ll just step up/down a size.

I see 2 different types of 1/4” timber wolf blades – Positive Claw/Raker. Looks like the raker has 10 tpi whereas the posiitive claw 4. Raker should give a cleaner cut?

H8593 131-1/2” X 1/4” X .025” X 10 Raker Blade

H8592 131-1/2” X 1/4” X .025” X 4 Pos Claw Blade


View Loren's profile (online now)


10272 posts in 3615 days

#7 posted 12-07-2010 08:28 PM

The wood-slicer is a nice-cutting blade, but it’s expensive and can’t be
resharpened except by hand. If you need to resaw some really primo
stock for veneers, get a new wood-slicer and you’ll be pleased, but for
general work I think the blade is over-priced for everyday cutting.
I recommend it, but only for precision resawing cuts because it doesn’t
stay razor sharp as long as you’d like it to.

Big band saw blades are often worth resharpening. It’s not that hard to
do it yourself but you can also have somebody with a belsaw machine
do it. You can resharpen a wood-slicer, but it will be hard to get it to
perform like new due to the geometry of it and it cannot be done on
a belsaw or similar machine due to the variable-pitch design,

I run my 20” vintage delta saw with a 1” stellite-tipped blade. You can’t
cut curves with it at all, but I don’t consider the bandsaw a curve-cutting
tool – it’s so valuable as a tool for straight cuts.

Wider blades run truer in my experience. For narrower steel blades I like
the Timberwolf, though they are hard and tend to break on smaller
saws before they run out of life.

On a big saw you’ll get good life out of 1/2” blades but I leave mine set-up
with the stellite blade all the time and find other ways to cut curves.

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