table saw burn

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Forum topic by flatboarder posted 12-06-2010 09:19 AM 3730 views 1 time favorited 11 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View flatboarder's profile


100 posts in 2274 days

12-06-2010 09:19 AM

Topic tags/keywords: woodburning

I have A pM 2000 TABLE saw the problem I keep having is everything I cut burns on the left side of the blade. Iv’e tried New blades, Old blades, skinny Blades, Thick blades and even Sharp Blades. “Imagine that”. As far as I can tell the blade is parallel to the miter slot, the fence is parallel to the miter slot, the riving knife is also in its correct allignment. It doesn’t matter If its hard wood, softwood, or even plywood. I was making a cabniet for a miter saw stand and i was cutting some maple 3/4” domestic plywood and it still was burning just on the left side. Any Ideas?

-- Ive cut this board three times and its still too short?

11 replies so far

View TomHintz's profile


207 posts in 2815 days

#1 posted 12-06-2010 09:33 AM

Burning like that (one sided) almost has to result from the fence not being aligned right. I have the PM2000 also and base all of my measurements from the left miter slot using a dial indicator. I was able to get my blade within 0.001” of perfectly parallel to the slot and run my fence tailed out at the rear by about 0.002” to 0.003”. With that setup I get no burning.
It does not take much of an error in these alignments to start dragging the stock on one side of the blade or the other. With the power of the PM2000 (and other bigger saws) burning is more pronounced because the saw does not slow down under that additional friction.
I would sit down and go back through the setups, starting with the blade to miter slot and get everything as close to perfect as you can.

-- Tom Hintz,

View BertFlores58's profile


1684 posts in 2339 days

#2 posted 12-06-2010 10:15 AM

Based on my experience, cleaning the saw blade will make a big difference…. once the resin sticks already in the blade… the heat from friction will melt it back and burn and once cold, it is back to solid and burns again when heated the next time you use it. The tip of the blade must be the one in contact and not the side of the blade which creates a lot of friction. Alignment of the blade tip sides is the most important part to check if it is freely touching and no other other part of the blade side is touching (This is why the kerf is measured on the blade tip).

Process: Cut a sample wood but not through (use a handsaw in finishing the cut through) and locate where is the burnt part… if it is inner part (away from the blade tip but near to center of rotation) then side of the blade is touching… if it is the tip portion, then the blade is dull.

-- Bert

View BertFlores58's profile


1684 posts in 2339 days

#3 posted 12-06-2010 10:31 AM

I also assume that the bearing may needs replacement. There is a big difference when you check the allignment at static condition than while it is in motion…. When you apply force during cutting, the spindle of the blade will move because of the worn out bearing. If it is on the leftside…. then the bearing nearest the blade may be lose with the housing so it moves up. Check with a dial gage (Be careful) with ball bearing tip while it is running and check while it is at work but be careful on this test as the blade is turning with load.

-- Bert

View Sawkerf's profile


1730 posts in 2486 days

#4 posted 12-06-2010 04:55 PM

Assuming that you’re using a clean, sharp, blade – and that your saw is aligned correctly – there may be issues with how you’re feeding the workpiece while ripping.

Ideally, you’re pushing the board so the pressure is exactly perpendicular to the blade, and the other edge is riding against the fence. This is actually very difficult to do since we all want to “steer” the board to keep it against the fence. Friction between the board and sawtable (and/or outfeed table) can also try to
“steer” the board.

Another possibility is that the edge against the fence isn’t straight. This can cause the lateral pressure to vary as the board goes past the blade.

You might be using the wrong blade for your rip cuts. I’ve found that i get less burning on hard wood (maple, beech, etc) if i use a lower tooth count blade. Save the 60 – 80 tooth blades for the easier cuts.

Finally, I’ve noticed that even the TV woodworkers manage to get a fair amount of “burn”, sometimes.

-- Adversity doesn't build reveals it.

View SnowyRiver's profile


51452 posts in 2898 days

#5 posted 12-06-2010 07:31 PM

I think everyone has brought up good points. I use a Powermatic 66, and if I slow or stop the feed rate it will quickly burn especially if the blade has resin or pitch on it. Keep the sides of the blade clean, and keep the blade sharp, use a steady feed rate. It might help to wax the saw table too so the wood slides over the table easily. Use a good non silicon wax.

-- Wayne - Plymouth MN

View Lee Barker's profile

Lee Barker

2170 posts in 2268 days

#6 posted 12-06-2010 07:43 PM

This is not a fix precisely—I think alignment is the issue—and every post so far is germane.

Two additions to the discussion:

1. Saw blade stabilizers really do work. I was dubious; now I keep them on the TS and RAS unless I need to remove it for depth of cut.

2. The saw blade guys know their stuff. And, like most things, if you see something advertised that “does everything” you can assume that it does nothing very well.

I realize a saw blade is an unglamorous tool, but at minimum, for woodworkers who use sheet goods as well as solid stock, I would think you’d want a rip blade, a panel blade and a combination blade. And, when your ship comes in, one each in standby so a project is never compromised if a blade goes south unexpectedly.

-- " his brain, which is as dry as the remainder biscuit after a voyage, he hath strange places cramm'd with observation, the which he vents in mangled forms." --Shakespeare, "As You Like It"

View flatboarder's profile


100 posts in 2274 days

#7 posted 12-07-2010 02:11 AM

I Believe I found the culbert ? It was the FENCE. All this time I have been eyeballing the fence with the miter slot. There was some really good advise on most of replies that were sent. Here is the deal. I do use blade stabalizers. Forest 5” , and 6” whichever is needed. I also keep my blades clean as a whistle and sharp I use the dricote on them as well. I also use a industrial grade resin cleaner well most of the time. I really like that green stuff it seems to work just as good as anything “Simple Green” thats the name. I use FS, Forest,Altenica, and Amana saw blades Freud sometimres as well. I made a makeshift dial indicator bracket and used the dial gause from my Oneway Multigauge to check the Blade to the miter slot and thats when i found the Fence not parallel to the slot. I set it with a .002 fade at the top to the right. It worked so much better I was amazed. Five years into this woodworking adventure and I have arrived to the fact that I know absolutley nothing. In fact I believe that I have gotten less knoweldge now as I did when i started. Knoweldge can be a dangerous thing sometimes. What I need is a mentor someone who knows more than I but yet someone that want teach me bad habits. It’s funny this woodworking stuff. Iv’e learned just enough to keep me from being able to do anything correct. It’s hard just to make a square board. I HAVE TO buy a new Jointer this week. The Delta 12” I just bought had to go back to where it came from. This really makes me sick The tables were so flat on that machine it was unbelievable. Delta sent me a new cutterhead and it had a dry bearing. They didnt want to send another one so I just gave the machine back to them .I loose the freight money of almost 700.00 thats a big big bummer. What to do now? I havn’t the slightest idea Help please. Powermatic has me on the black list cause the tables on my PJ882HH warped just after one and a half years. It doesn’t matter that I own 10 more,,,, ” yes” I said TEN MORE of their machines I bought brand new two years ago. They gave me my $ back on the Jointer and all I wanted was for them to fix there machine. I feel like an idiot but what am I to do. I refuse to stand by and be taken advantage of by these people at the companys.I dont have the $ to throw away. Now I’m down to 3000.000 for a new jointer and that includes shipping. Anyadvise on a new Jointer? Thanks Chris

-- Ive cut this board three times and its still too short?

View Gerry's profile


261 posts in 2658 days

#8 posted 12-07-2010 03:19 AM

The lesson I keep learning in woodworking is that of humility…..... Also, you may want to consider Grizzly? Here’s a link to their 12” Parallelogram Jointer:

Happy hunting!

-- -Gerry, Hereford, AZ ” A really good woodworker knows how the hide his / her mistakes.”

View Gofor's profile


470 posts in 3204 days

#9 posted 12-07-2010 04:17 AM

My bet is that the fence is not your problem. It is the splitter/riving knife. One constant on a left-tilt saw is the arbor against which sets the left side of the blade. If the splitter is too far to the right, it will pull the wood into the left side of the blade.

To eliminate the fence as the culprit, clamp a straight auxiliary fence that stops just after the front of the blade. After that point, you do not need a fence. If it still burns, the fence is not your problem unless it is really skewed to the right.



-- Go

View Kevin's profile


462 posts in 2622 days

#10 posted 12-07-2010 07:33 AM

Wow flatboarder, that’s interesting story you have there. I consider myself to have a very keen eye and very detailed, but that’s the first thing I did when I got my new grizzly. I have it running out 0.001 – 0.002 on the back so no pinching or kickback/burning will occur (or at least minimize it). Lots of people already mentioned most of everything that needs to be done. Not sure if anyone mentioned it yet or not, but I usually use a 30T for ripping, 50T for general purpose (ripping and crosscutting) and a 80T for crosscutting plywood/hardwood/softwood. I clean my blades on a weekly basis also.

I would continue browsing these forums to read posts and such for tips and information. I started just 2 years ago heavily into woodworking. I’ve learned so so much and i’m always looking for more advice. Used to I would just go buy a board from Lowes, butt joint the thing together and screw it. Not anymore!

I’m purchasing this 8” jointer from grizzly tomorrow hopefully. I want to make sure they have it in stock first though.

I think that should fit my needs for a very long time. :)

-- Williamsburg, KY

View FatScratch's profile


189 posts in 2720 days

#11 posted 12-08-2010 04:28 PM

Hey Flatboarder, I’m sorry to hear of your troubles with your machinery. If the jointer you bought was defective, then the manufacturer should be taking it back and you should not be paying freight. I would hope you made such a large purchase with a credit card, as they provide numerous consumer protections by both their agreements and Federal Law. I would start there, we are talking about a worth-while sum of money. I would also check with your State Attorney General’s Office. Local news broadcasters often have consumer protection investigators looking for a story. If you really got taken for the money and the manufacturer has been unable to make things right, you should take them to task. Nobody should be paying other’s mistakes. You should not be responsible for paying to return a defective item. Don’t make phone calls or emails regarding your situation to the manufacturer, it is a waste of time. Send carefully written letters to the President or appropriate VP of the company and keep copies of everything. This will yield the best results.

Good luck.

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