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Powermatic Model 60 8" Jointer - Motor Question

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Forum topic by magaoitin posted 06-13-2017 08:22 PM 1032 views 0 times favorited 4 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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magaoitin

246 posts in 784 days


06-13-2017 08:22 PM

I need some advice on repairs to my old Jointer.

I have an old Model 60 (pre 1952) with the original 3 phase, 1 1/2 HP motor.



Recently I tried to get it setup with a static phase converter and everything was going great until I tried to hook up the on/off switch through the Thermal Overload Breaker and Motor Controller.


After I mounting the breaker & controller in the box, and the Phase Converter inside the machine’s housing, a wire came loose and shorted out the on/off connection on the Motor Controller when I went to start it up. (I can press the black button on the center of the Starter, marked Automation Direct.com, and the machine runs, so I know it is the on/off connection inside the starter that is fried.)To replace the motor controller with the same part is $80-$90.

First off, the 1 1/2 hp motor runs/ran great, but by using the SPC I am only realizing 1 HP. I don’t think that is a big issue, 1 HP should be sufficient for anything I can think of building. The motor is pre 1952 though that shouldn’t matter. the bearing seam fine and while it was running there was no vibration in the machine. The motor is rated at 3600 RPM.

I’m, wondering about options.
1. Just replace the Motor Starter controller for $75 and have a 1 HP, 3 phase motor running at 2/3 power, but off standard 240V plug. I know this setup works just fine (apart form my loose wire)

2. There is a used 5 HP Delta Unisaw motor and starter on Craigslist for $125. It is a 3450 RPM which is close enough that I shouldn’t have to worry tha tthe machine was designed to use a 3600 RPM motor. This would give me a much beefier motor and I would end up with 3 1/3 HP, but still have to use a SPC.

3. I have a 2 HP single phase motor from a broken Jet Dust Collector DC-1182 that has a melted starter capacitor (it is a 3450 RPM as well.) I picked up the Jet at an auction for $25 after seeing that the Start capacitor was blown. It just has a single capacotor on the motor. I am not savvy enough with electric motors to tell if this blew because it was a start capacitor and not a run capacitor, or if there was some other problem. I thought a start capacitor could act like a run capacitor, but not the other way around. I think I can get a start cap for $20.

Any new motor I install will need to have an adapter plate/mounting bracket fabricated since the bolt patterns for the feet are not the same, but I’m not too concerned about that.

Thanks LJ’s

-- Jeff ~ Tacoma Wa.


4 replies so far

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MrUnix

5988 posts in 2034 days


#1 posted 06-13-2017 08:44 PM

That is a 1961 model based on the serial number.

1) Replacing the IEC starter would be your cheapest option IMO. It sounds like the contactor coil is fried, or else the control wiring to it has. Unfortunately, those IEC starters are basically disposable, unlike their larger NEMA brothers, so replacing it is about your only option with it. You might get lucky and find a burnt wire or something if you dig around though. Alternatively, you could plunk down ~$150 and get a VFD to replace the starter and SPC. It would get your motor back to full power as well as give you a few other benefits, and you could probably sell the SPC to recover a little bit of that (or just keep it for a future machine).

2) I doubt a Unisaw motor would work as it has a totally different mount than any other motor. Also, according to the manual, the recommended motor size is 3/4 to 2hp… 5hp would be way too much for that machine.

3) You are correct that you could get a capacitor for ~$20 or less… but there may be other problems that caused its failure (like a stuck centrifugal switch). But even assuming the motor is perfect after replacing the capacitor, you then also have the mounting issue you mentioned, and will still have to replace the blown IEC starter you have.

Cheers,
Brad

PS: A “3450” RPM motor is the exact same as a “3600” RPM motor.

-- Brad in FL - In Dog I trust... everything else is questionable

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magaoitin

246 posts in 784 days


#2 posted 06-13-2017 09:24 PM

Thanks Brad!

The reason I figured pre 1952 is the motor tag has a frame size listed as 203. I had read somewhere (probably on the web so take is with a grain of salt) that the 203 stoped being labeld that way in 1952.

NEMA frame sizes prior to 1952 (now being refered to as Original Frames). From ‘52-’64 frames were U frames, then then changes to T frames after ‘64 to the present.

Its all too possible that I have a ‘53 engine in a ‘61 body, just like I feel most days!

-- Jeff ~ Tacoma Wa.

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MrUnix

5988 posts in 2034 days


#3 posted 06-13-2017 09:30 PM

Yeah, I was referring to just the age/date of manufacture of the jointer, not the motor :)
Powermatic serial number magic decoder can be found here.

That motor is not original to the machine, so it’s most likely been swapped out in a previous life…
I also checked the Powermatic catalog, and it says to use only 3/4 to 1.5hp motors, so it’s sized right.

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - In Dog I trust... everything else is questionable

View jonah's profile

jonah

1448 posts in 3134 days


#4 posted 06-13-2017 11:24 PM

If the Jet motor is otherwise fine, I would fix it and use that. If you don’t have to faff about with static phase converters, so much the better.

There’s probably a motor shop near you that could get/install the cap and look at the rest of the motor for a pretty decent price.

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