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Grizzly G1022Z Blade Parallelism

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Forum topic by Pete_LJ posted 06-13-2017 01:39 PM 615 views 0 times favorited 14 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Pete_LJ

93 posts in 584 days


06-13-2017 01:39 PM

I just fabricated a holder for my dial caliper that allows it to be held in a holder while attached to a slider in the miter slot groove. I marked one tooth on my saw blade and measured it at the front and back of the saw. I found that I had a difference of 0.020”. So I looked up the procedure for adjusting blade parallelism in the Grizzly G1022 manual. According to the manual, I am supposed to completely disassemble the saw to complete this procedure. Seems like overkill to me.

It appears to me that the four trunnion bolts can be accessed as follows:

1.) two rear trunnion bolts are exposed below the table saw top (directly above the motor);

2.) left front trunnion can be accessed by removing the throat plate.

My intention is to loosen three (“3”) bolts (two rear trunnions bolts and front left front trunnion bolt) and use a dead blow hammer to move the table saw top into parallel.

PS I have attached pics of me measuring the parallelisn and an excerpt from G1022 manual regarding blade paralleliism.


14 replies so far

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Davevand

49 posts in 675 days


#1 posted 06-13-2017 01:48 PM

Do yourself a favor and check one other thing before you start. Tilt the blade 45 degrees and see if the difference is still .025”. I could never get mine even close to parallel.

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rwe2156

2716 posts in 1319 days


#2 posted 06-13-2017 01:51 PM

Sheesh!! Definitely give it a try. I have plenty of Grizzly machines most of them were pretty well within tolerances except for the 20” planer chip breaker was way off.

OTOH, my Jet Xacta was dialed in when I got it & I’ve never touched it in 15 years [gloat]. I think its just the difference in the brand’s QC, not the quality of machine.

-- Everything is a prototype thats why its one of a kind!!

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Pete_LJ

93 posts in 584 days


#3 posted 06-13-2017 02:08 PM

Thanks for the suggestions. I just measured the 45 degree parallelism and got 0.043” out. I need to read manual on adjustment for 45 degrees.

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Pete_LJ

93 posts in 584 days


#4 posted 06-13-2017 10:14 PM

New problem: I tried adjusting table top with dead-blow hammer with three loosened bolts (described above) and now the blade will no longer go to a 90 degree angle. I have tried adjusting the bolt and jam nut that adjust the pinion gear that translates motion to the trunnion but this has not solved the problem even when loosened all the way. It looks like I am going to have remove the saw from the stand to fix this new problem before I can proceed.

I found out that the pinion gear is held onto the shaft actuated by the right hand wheel (90 degree to 45 degree angle adjustment). Found some new fasteners on the mounting block for bearing of angle shaft. Once inside I found that he pinion shaft roll pin is sheared and hence the angle adjustment problem. Looks I need to get the sheared pin out of the hole for pinion gear, obtain new roll pin (appears to be 2.5mm) and then reassemble.

I will post some pics later.

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MrUnix

6010 posts in 2037 days


#5 posted 06-13-2017 11:31 PM

I tried adjusting table top with dead-blow hammer with three loosened bolts (described above)

That is absolutely the wrong way to do it… the trunnions are attached to the bottom of the table, and the table is attached to the saw cabinet. Banging on the table will do absolutely no good in the way of moving trunnions. Do yourself a favor, follow the instructions in the manual.

The way you are trying to go about it is correct for a cabinet saw – where the trunnions are mounted to the cabinet, not the bottom of the table. You don’t have a cabinet saw :)

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - In Dog I trust... everything else is questionable

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Pete_LJ

93 posts in 584 days


#6 posted 06-13-2017 11:32 PM

It appears that the roll pin had been broken prior to be me purchasing the saw used. The rust and stub of the roll pin were allowing the pinion to turn. However, it gave the ghost today when you got near 90 degrees,

Some pictures of angle shaft, pinion, roll-pin and support bearings:

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Pete_LJ

93 posts in 584 days


#7 posted 06-13-2017 11:40 PM

Thanks. It appears that you are quite right that this saw cannot be adjusted like a cabinet saw.

I tried adjusting table top with dead-blow hammer with three loosened bolts (described above)

That is absolutely the wrong way to do it… the trunnions are attached to the bottom of the table, and the table is attached to the saw cabinet. Banging on the table will do absolutely no good in the way of moving trunnions. Do yourself a favor, follow the instructions in the manual.

The way you are trying to go about it is correct for a cabinet saw – where the trunnions are mounted to the cabinet, not the bottom of the table. You don t have a cabinet saw :)

Cheers,
Brad

- MrUnix


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JAAune

1769 posts in 2155 days


#8 posted 06-15-2017 12:37 AM

Sounds like your trunnion bars are misaligned. They should be parallel to each other before you do any other adjustments.

Contractor saw alignment

-- See my work at http://remmertstudios.com and http://altaredesign.com

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Pete_LJ

93 posts in 584 days


#9 posted 06-15-2017 02:20 PM

Thanks for the suggestion. I will check out the link.


Sounds like your trunnion bars are misaligned. They should be parallel to each other before you do any other adjustments.

Contractor saw alignment

- JAAune


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HokieKen

4515 posts in 977 days


#10 posted 06-15-2017 02:53 PM

Link above is a good one. Basically it means your trunnions are either bent or in a bind if you get it true at 90 but it’s out at 45. Also, once you get the trunions aligned properly, be careful not to loosen the bolts too much to tune the adjustment. If you do, the trunnions may become twisted again. Been there and done that! The good news is, fix it once and you should never have to do it again :-)

-- Kenny, SW VA, Go Hokies!!!

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Pete_LJ

93 posts in 584 days


#11 posted 06-18-2017 11:43 AM

Checked the trunnion bar alignment and it appears to be good. I used the instructions at this link: http://www.woodcentral.com/woodworking/forum/archives.pl/bid/1001/md/read/id/457168 (provided by HokieKen) and also this link: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XXY_i-KWdYI (youtube video regarding Delta contractor saw – Grizzly appears to be a clone of the Delta saw).

As a result, I did the following:

1. Pulled rear trunnion cap (looks good but needs to be derusted and lubed).

2. Ordered PALS contractor saw adjustment tabs. See https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O9OeVk8-Y3M

I ordered the 5/16 version (other size offered is 3/8”). However, the trunnion bolts on the Grizzly are 8mm (which is roughly equivalent to 0.315)” while 5/16 is 0.3125”. So it is likely that I will need to ream the PALS tabs to 8mm in order for them to fit (depends on tolerances of the PALS tabs). I will likely receive the PALS later this week and then install them next weekend.

I have attached some pictures of the rear trunnion cap. Seeing the trunnion makes it easier to see how the trunnion is fastened and its general configuration.

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Pete_LJ

93 posts in 584 days


#12 posted 06-19-2017 03:11 PM

In order to install the PALS system for a contractor saw blade parallell adjustment on a Gizzly G1022, I will need to use studs instead of bolts. So I ordered a few M8×1.25 40mm studs from Fastenal early this morning. They should be in by R or F this week along with the PALS system from Amazon. Hopefully, I will be able to tune this easily now.

Link to PALS for sale on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/PALS-CTS-alignment-kit-16/dp/B0036B4OFW

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Pete_LJ

93 posts in 584 days


#13 posted 06-20-2017 12:33 PM

I just found out that Amazon does indeed stock a PALS system for contractor saws with 8mm bolts (rather than 5/16” or 3/8”). Unfortunately, for me this item did not come up when I originally searched for the 8mm PALS system. As a result, I have a 5/16” PALS on the way and I have separatelyordered 8mm studs.

Link to 8mm PALS on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/8MM-Contractor-Saw-Pals-Kit/dp/B00A1Q0UXA/ref=pd_cp_469_3?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00A1Q0UXA&pd_rd_r=HQPH935731RFCQSJWSXM&pd_rd_w=MPwLM&pd_rd_wg=A0wht&psc=1&refRID=HQPH935731RFCQSJWSXM

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Pete_LJ

93 posts in 584 days


#14 posted 06-25-2017 01:13 PM

Installed PALs system. Initially, I was only able to improve the parallelism by about 1 or 2 thousandths (from 0.020” out of parallel to almost 0.018” out). Next I removed the trunnion cap and expanded the bolt hole by 1/64” (about 0.016” ) with my drill press. After trunnion cap hole enlargement and trunnion cap reinstallation, I was now able to get out of parallelism down to about 0.011”. Sounds like like I need to remove the trunnion cap again and enlarge it another 1/64” (or perhaps a 1/32”).

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