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Forum topic by Hopdevil posted 12-03-2010 03:54 AM 980 views 0 times favorited 6 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Hopdevil

210 posts in 2551 days


12-03-2010 03:54 AM

Topic tags/keywords: question

Hello my friends,

Some advice please..

I was gluing up some box joint boxes this evening and gluing both sides of each corner and wondered was I overdoing it? ( I tend to do that!). The box was made out of 1/4 inch thick wood with 1/4 fingers. When gluing a joint like a box joint, is it necessary to apply glue to both edges? What about other types of joints?

Secondly.. The box was made out of wormy chestnut (I gloated about it a couple of weeks ago). It seems to be fairly brittle. I had problems with the fingers snapping off. Perhaps it is a combination of the worm holes and the thickness that I resawed it to. The wood is about 80 years old (since original use). Should I not cut it that thick in the future? Or just not do box joints with it.

Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated!

Buzz

-- Buzz ---- Fare Thee Well!


6 replies so far

View richgreer's profile

richgreer

4541 posts in 2539 days


#1 posted 12-03-2010 05:04 AM

IMO – The only problem with over doing the gluing is dealing with the squeeze out. If you can clean up the squeeze our and/or scrap/sand it out, it does not matter how much you over do the glue.

Regarding the finger joints – - Is the grain running across the tabs or out into the tabs. Making sure the grain is running in the right direction (out into the tabs) is important.

-- Rich, Cedar Rapids, IA - I'm a woodworker. I don't create beauty, I reveal it.

View MatthewG's profile

MatthewG

74 posts in 2244 days


#2 posted 12-03-2010 05:14 AM

If I ran into box joint fingers snapping off, I would think my box joints were too tight. I am thinking that box joints should be able to slip apart with hand strength. All the ones I made—even those that were looser that what I wanted—have never come apart, so getting them too loose is not usually the issue.

-- Matthew, from beautiful Wisconsin USA

View Pete_Jud's profile

Pete_Jud

424 posts in 3218 days


#3 posted 12-03-2010 05:42 AM

I agree. Wiping glue off is easy, and better than a glue starved joint. I run production dovetails for my lights, and use Titebond 2 on the dove tails, they are 3/8 thick mostly western red alder, and I make shure that the glue is spread all through the dovetail joints.

-- Life is to short to own an ugly boat.

View Howie's profile

Howie

2656 posts in 2388 days


#4 posted 12-03-2010 01:44 PM

One of the schools of thought on gluing both sides is that on the end grain the glue soaks in quickly. Therefore if you only glue one side you are starving the joint.
I think rich,matt and Pete all make valid points. Glue is cheap.
The wood being 80 is certainly dry so to me that would make sense to glue both sides.
Lots of things have 1/4 inch box joints. Like rich mentioned check the grain direction and be a little more careful putting them together.

-- Life is good.

View Gene Howe's profile

Gene Howe

8254 posts in 2893 days


#5 posted 12-03-2010 01:59 PM

As Howie said, gluing both sides prevents starving a joint containing end grain. I like to spread on a film layer of glue, let it dry, the glue again. In the case of punky or brittle wood, an added benefit might be strengthening the fingers. Loosening the fit would help, too.

-- Gene 'The true soldier fights not because he hates what is in front of him, but because he loves what is behind him.' G. K. Chesterton

View Hopdevil's profile

Hopdevil

210 posts in 2551 days


#6 posted 12-04-2010 07:36 PM

Thanks folks,
I figured both sides was the way to go, just in the middle of the box joint fingers, I was getting tired and lazy. I think some of the ‘brittleness’ I described was due to the worm holes in some of the 1/4 inch fingers.

I appreciate all your help!

Buzz

-- Buzz ---- Fare Thee Well!

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