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Milk paint issues

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Forum topic by Kennethjg posted 06-06-2017 12:27 PM 776 views 0 times favorited 3 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Kennethjg

45 posts in 774 days


06-06-2017 12:27 PM

Topic tags/keywords: paint wax paste wax blo anarchists tool chest tool chest

If anyone has any experience with milk paint , I could use some help.
I built an anarchists tool chest and wanted to paint it red over white. Well the red did not turn out the way I would have liked, but I got impatient and just wanted it to be done, so I rubbed on some BLO and then a few coats of paste wax.
Well after a week or so of looking at that ugly red, I decided I couldn’t stand it and started stripping off the wax with mineral spirits and rags and scotchbrite. Once I got it all off (I thought) I got black milk paint and put 2 coats. The color looks better but there are just parts where the paint didn’t seem to stick and it flaked off when I sanded.
I’m sure it has something to do with the wax.
My question is, does anyone have any suggestions on what I should do now? Should I cut my losses and accept that it’s just a tool chest and leave it looking a bit artificially aged? Would latex paint cover better or would I have the same problem? Should I try to strip it down again? Or should I just put the whole damn thing on the burn pile and start over?

-- It ain't custom unless you fucked it up.


3 replies so far

View dhazelton's profile

dhazelton

2612 posts in 2136 days


#1 posted 06-06-2017 12:48 PM

Maybe go over it again with mineral spirits, use paper towel and do one area at a time and toss the towel. A coat of shellac would seal any waxy residue then you could go back to your chosen color, but I don’t know if milk paint will adhere to the shellac even if well sanded.

Multiple coats of wax are unnecessary. One is all you need as you are buffing most of it off when you go multiple layers.

View rwyoung's profile

rwyoung

409 posts in 3312 days


#2 posted 06-07-2017 02:44 PM

Sand back, seal with shellac (dewaxed). Then repaint.

If you are using the GF “Milk Paint” (it isn’t casein based, its more like a really nice acrylic), you should be able to cover in 2 coats with the dark colors. Lighter colors tend to work more like a heavy body stain in my experience. Bonds just fine to dewaxed shellac (e.g. Zinser Sealcoat) or Zinser BIN primer (the shellac based stuff, not the water borne version).

If you are making the stuff up from powder or “scratch” and it has lime and casein, then it will take many more coats to obscure whatever is below. This will also bond to the shellac or BIN just fine.

Never get in a hurry when finishing, that’s the most difficult thing I’ve learned!

-- Don't sweat the petty things and don't pet the sweaty things.

View HorizontalMike's profile

HorizontalMike

7664 posts in 2754 days


#3 posted 06-07-2017 05:01 PM

Sand it completely, down to bare wood. Thin…
DIY Milk Paint
http://lumberjocks.com/topics/53291

I have tried the commercial “milk paint” and find it lacking. Much better to make your own, IMO.

-- HorizontalMike -- "Woodpeckers understand..."

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