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Doing a toybox for younger brother but have a few questions

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Forum topic by newbiewoodworker posted 11-28-2010 07:33 PM 847 views 0 times favorited 8 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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newbiewoodworker

668 posts in 2292 days


11-28-2010 07:33 PM

I am going to be doing a toybox for my younger brother. But I have a few questions.

How do I avoid the lid breaking any fingers should it be dropped?
What wood takes the best finish(Paint will be the finish, since stain and poly would be ruined in a month.)?
Is it okay to use say #2 Pine on a painted project? I will run everything through the planer
What size woods should I use on a fairly large sized toybox? I was thinking 1×2 for the centre rails, 1×4 for the outer(the legs) and maybe 1/4in ply for the lowed panels(not raised, Ill probably stick them in slots for the rails)

And the most important question: Can something like this be done with only a few major tools, being a small, bent arboured TS, a Mitre saw, a couple drills, a circ saw, jigsaw, and sander? I think I could do it, but Id rather know if thats actually possible with that setup, before wasting any cash on it..

-- "Ah, So your not really a newbie, but a I betterbie."


8 replies so far

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FirehouseWoodworking

689 posts in 2738 days


#1 posted 11-29-2010 02:06 AM

Newbie,

There are toybox lid hinges made especially for this application. A number of companies make them. here’s a couple links:

Rockler: http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=410

Hardwaresource: http://www.hardwaresource.com/hinges/SPECIALTY+HINGES/Chest+Hinges+-+Box+Hinges+-+Lid+Supports/Toy+Box+Lid+Supports/

Pine will work for painting, but because of the grain and knots, you can do better. The best choice is probably poplar. You can use birch plywood for the panels as it takes paint rather well.

I would use at least 1/2” plywood, 3/4” if you’re not going with rail & stile construction. I don’t think that 1/4” will stand up to the abuse and it may tend to warp when you paint it.

Good luck! I think it’s really neat that you want to build your little brother a toybox! Well done, young man!

Cheers!

-- Dave; Lansing, Kansas

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newbiewoodworker

668 posts in 2292 days


#2 posted 11-29-2010 03:35 AM

Okay, thanks. I am probably gunna do the Stile and rail construction… because its nice looking :)

-- "Ah, So your not really a newbie, but a I betterbie."

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FirehouseWoodworking

689 posts in 2738 days


#3 posted 11-29-2010 04:05 AM

I’d still recommend 1/2” plywood. Think about dadoes along the edges to make it work in 3/4” frame stock.

-- Dave; Lansing, Kansas

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newbiewoodworker

668 posts in 2292 days


#4 posted 11-29-2010 04:17 AM

I am gunna use 1/2… Sorry if that wasnt clear.

-- "Ah, So your not really a newbie, but a I betterbie."

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Tim Self

15 posts in 2270 days


#5 posted 11-29-2010 04:19 AM

When I made my granddaughters box, I cut the front panel about 1/2-3/4” below where the lid closed. That made enough room to eliminate the possibility of finger smashing. The lid support I got at Lowes. Was plenty stiff enough to keep the lid up.

-- Tim

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FirehouseWoodworking

689 posts in 2738 days


#6 posted 11-29-2010 10:53 PM

I see that your tag line is quite appropriate! You are NOT really a “Newbie”! Well done!

-- Dave; Lansing, Kansas

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chrisstef

15671 posts in 2471 days


#7 posted 11-29-2010 11:10 PM

I might suggest using MDF if its a larger toybox, itll take paint well, cut and shape easy too.

-- rock, chalk, jayhawk

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newbiewoodworker

668 posts in 2292 days


#8 posted 12-01-2010 03:15 AM

I did get MDF… and a crud load of somewat decent 2×3 studs… I have already begun milling them down, so they are ending up to be a little over an 1 thick by maybe 2 wide…. .... and actually ending up pretty square… its a tedious process..

I am at a loss on the legs though. Should I do a glue up of two of them, to form a square leg or should I mill the legs to 1×1… I plan on dadoing them, by doing multiple passes on the wobbly arbour TS…

I am confused though… since I dont want to make them too thin to dado.. yet at the same time, I dont really want to see a line… although now that I think of it… It will be painted.. so I guess it wont be visable… That brings me to another point… is it SAFE to run a glueup through the table saw..?

—I suppose I could rabbit 2 of them, then glue em up… theres a dado…. hmmm…

-- "Ah, So your not really a newbie, but a I betterbie."

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