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diamond sharpening stones?

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Forum topic by harum posted 05-31-2017 01:31 AM 803 views 0 times favorited 17 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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harum

260 posts in 1482 days


05-31-2017 01:31 AM

Topic tags/keywords: question

I want to switch from wet sand paper to sharpening stones. Local Woodcraft has two kinds of stones of DMT brand: interrupted diamond surface stones and continuous diamond material stones, left and right in the photo:

Was wondering if one kind is better for sharpening chisels and plane blades than the other? And also how durable are they, for example, how long would they last if I sharpen three planes and a few chisels once every day using honing guide? Would greatly appreciate any feedback. Thanks and best wishes, h.

-- "If you're not counting the ripples when throwing pebbles in the water, you're wasting your time."


17 replies so far

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Loren

9633 posts in 3487 days


#1 posted 05-31-2017 01:57 AM

Manufacturers of diamond stones are in
a position to make any claim they like as
to their effectiveness.

I have a couple of Eze-lap plates which were
more aggressive when new but have since
settled into reliable performance. I haven’t
worn out a plate yet though I did discover
they can get clogged, requiring a good scrubbing
with soapy water.

I noticed awhile back that on knife making
forums some contributors had a lot of experience
with diamond stones and offered opinions
about the durability of different brands.

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waho6o9

8034 posts in 2416 days


#2 posted 05-31-2017 02:09 AM

I really didn’t care for the DMT brand as I’ve found Atoma diamond stones to be

more effective. I think I use the extra coarse DMT to flatten my water stones.

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TheFridge

8332 posts in 1325 days


#3 posted 05-31-2017 02:12 AM

My experience: I wore out my first dmt c/xc in short order. The replacement they sent has fared better.

I prefer continuous. Especially for smaller irons, chisels, and curved tools.

Atoma makes some excellent stones as well.

-- Shooting down the walls of heartache. Bang bang. I am. The warrior.

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skogie1

105 posts in 1202 days


#4 posted 05-31-2017 05:13 AM

I’ve been using the continuous style stones for a long time with no problems. I like them. They stay dead flat.

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harum

260 posts in 1482 days


#5 posted 05-31-2017 05:32 AM

Thank you for all the replies! I guess I’ll be looking for deals on continuous material stones, Atoma first choice. Would coarse, fine and extra fine be sufficient for plane irons and chisels?

-- "If you're not counting the ripples when throwing pebbles in the water, you're wasting your time."

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Tim

3683 posts in 1800 days


#6 posted 05-31-2017 03:50 PM

Harum, yes, 250,600,1200 is the system Paul Sellers recommends. There are other ways to go, but it certainly works. Definitely continuous is better so the corners of narrow chisels don’t dig in. Also depending on your budget, 8×3 stones are better than those 6”x2” Chances are, any time you sharpen a larger plane blade you’ll wish you had the larger size, though you can skew the iron, it’s just a bit harder.

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waho6o9

8034 posts in 2416 days


#7 posted 05-31-2017 03:52 PM

Ebay tends to have cost effective Atoma prices, check around though.

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RustyHacksaw

129 posts in 1102 days


#8 posted 05-31-2017 03:55 PM

I have used the 8×3” dmt plates for 3 years now. Had an issue with the diamond material coming off the extra fine, called them and they sent me a new one. The plates stay out on the sharpening bench. Spray with water/windex mix. wipe off when done.. used the same rag for 3 years now. Extra Coarse, Coarse, Fine, Extra Fine.

bob’s ur uncle.

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MrRon

4496 posts in 3082 days


#9 posted 05-31-2017 04:11 PM

I think people who use diamond stones, use them too aggressively. A ceramic stone doesn’t cut as fast as a diamond so they tend to bear down on them more. I found that a diamond stone only needs a few light swipes to get the edge; I’m talking about sharpening cutlery mainly, but I also use a light touch on tools, drill bits, chisels, etc. I prefer the stones with the continuous diamond surface, not the ones with the plastic surround. The EZE LAP diamond is the one I use. I have used it every day for 25 years and it still gives me sharp knives. I started using it back when I was in the saw sharpening business to sharpen carbide.

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Carloz

981 posts in 430 days


#10 posted 05-31-2017 04:24 PM

One thing with perforated stones that you cannot use them to sharpen pointy objects such as awl.
I had a very good luck with DMT stones.

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builtinbkyn

1924 posts in 779 days


#11 posted 05-31-2017 04:29 PM

Good explanation of the various diamond stones – how they’re made, what they’re made of and which perform better.


View on YouTube

-- Bill, Yo!......in Brooklyn & Steel City :)

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Karda

823 posts in 393 days


#12 posted 05-31-2017 05:07 PM

I just started using diamond stones they work better if you use a drop or 2 of water and that keeps the stone from clogging, for sharpening I prefer them to sandpaper

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HokieKen

4515 posts in 977 days


#13 posted 05-31-2017 05:09 PM

I have DMT continuous in coarse, medium and fine and an Xfine ezlap. All have performed well for me. For a hobby woodworker, I really don’t think wearing quality diamond plates out is a big consideration.

-- Kenny, SW VA, Go Hokies!!!

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WillieMcCoy

11 posts in 338 days


#14 posted 05-31-2017 05:20 PM

I started with the DMT DuoSharp system (perforated, coarse and fine, two-sided stone). I’ve since added the XX-coarse and xx-fine in continuous plate. I think the continuous ones are 10” and they are HEAVY, solid steel. They all work as advertised but I prefer the continuous.

-- ...but down home they call me Slim

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Bluenote38

219 posts in 227 days


#15 posted 05-31-2017 05:47 PM

Made the swap to DMT Diamond “stones” from everything else for all my straight chisels. Cut faster, produce a more consistent edge. 600/2000 followed by a strop 5-10 strokes on each and good to go. Carving chisels I still stick with waterstones 600/1200/2000/4000/8000 then strop.

I haven’t had any issues with the DMTs I have. No bald spots in 7 years. They did break in from a really aggressive cut to a milder easier to control cut.

Ultimately it really doesn’t matter what “system” you use as long as you get good at using it and that takes practice.

-- Bill - Rochester MI

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