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Makita 2030N blade adjustment

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Forum topic by ShanghaiPete posted 05-26-2017 01:25 PM 1252 views 0 times favorited 8 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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ShanghaiPete

11 posts in 528 days


05-26-2017 01:25 PM

I have a vintage Makita 2030N planer/jointer combo that is new to me. The planer adjusts by raising or lowering the table up to the blade and there are two feed rollers on either side of the drum/blades. When I raise the table I noticed the blade itself is still 3mm above the wood when the wood is in contact with the rollers. I know the feed rollers on this planer have square holders that are not symmetric, so I’ve already adjusted them to raise them as much as possible. there is no other feed roller adjustment. I also have tried to adjust the blade based on the manual (says to have the blade out 2-3mm from the drum), but I only have about 1MM of edge protruding from the drum after adjusting with the hardwood blocks.

I can extend the blade out from the drum another 3-4 mm, but that means the blade is going to be protruding almost 5mm from the drum and I’m worried it could damage the blades. More importantly, why is this happening? I don’t think the rollers are original, but they are 2 inches in diameter which I believe is correct. Anyone with the Makita 2030 or 2030N that has had a similar issue?

Thanks!

Pete


8 replies so far

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runswithscissors

2823 posts in 2146 days


#1 posted 05-27-2017 04:56 AM

I can only speak in a general way about planer feed rollers, but haven’t experienced the Makita. The rollers should be pressed down by springs above them. As the wood feeds, it forces the rollers up and allows the knives to contact the wood. Typically there are adjusting screws above the springs by which you can vary the pressure that the springs exert.

A manual should show if these springs and adjusting screws are on your machine. No manual? You can probably find one to download online.

-- I admit to being an adrenaline junky; fortunately, I'm very easily frightened

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ShanghaiPete

11 posts in 528 days


#2 posted 05-27-2017 06:23 AM

Thanks! Unfortunately with the 2030N there are no ways to adjust the roller height (that I can see) vs the 2040 which does include an adjustment screw. I think the 2030 also doesn’t have a roller adjustment screw. On my planer the springs are pretty strong and it doesn’t look like there is much up and down movement. I’m open to ideas…

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MrUnix

6893 posts in 2320 days


#3 posted 05-27-2017 06:31 AM

Have you tried running some wood through it?

Couple of thoughts. When you measured in the picture above, did you have the head locked in the blade setting position? If so, that is not TDC. Also, the 2-3mm mentioned in the manual is just where you initially put them, and then set with the hardwood blocks, which will push them down into their correct position. I usually double check with a dial indicator after tightening them up, but haven’t had them mess up yet.

The feed rollers will raise a bit when you run stock through… and those springs are pretty stout, so you can’t really push up on them by hand. There is no adjustment for them other than like you noticed with the slightly off-center hole in the plain bearings – but that is just a tiny amount and should not really make much difference. See how much they move when you try some stock at zero depth of cut (based on the front indicator).

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - In Dog I trust... everything else is questionable

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ShanghaiPete

11 posts in 528 days


#4 posted 05-27-2017 03:01 PM

I tried to put a few boards through and the automatic feed roller seems to be working well, it grabbed it and pulled it through but the board came out the other side untouched. The picture above came when I tried to turn the drum with the blades on it to their lowest point, I don’t think I had the lock engaged (I’ll double check the measurement, ensuring it’s unlocked). I can’t even get the stock to touch the depth of cut indicator on the front, if I raise the table enough for the board to move the indicator the wood just runs into the feed roller and isn’t fed into the planer (hope that makes sense).

I could probably shim under the front feed roller bearing a couple of mm to raise it , this would further compress the springs and probably put a lot of pressure on the 4 screws that hold the bearing bracket in place. But not sure what other consequences that will have.

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ShanghaiPete

11 posts in 528 days


#5 posted 05-27-2017 09:39 PM

Here’s a picture from the front. You can see when the board is touching the roller it is still a little ways away from even touching the depth indicator gauge.

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pontic

626 posts in 730 days


#6 posted 05-27-2017 10:48 PM

The feed rollers need to have the keeper bushings that are under the springs flipped around. Yes they definitely are not symmetrical. Thai will raise them enough so it will work. If you extend the blades out too far when you catch a knot you will risk stripping out the threads on the blade keeper bolts. I’d go back and reassemble the roller mounts. I own one and ran into the same problem, Unless you got too thick a piece of rubber on the roller.

-- Illigitimii non carburundum sum

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MrUnix

6893 posts in 2320 days


#7 posted 05-28-2017 06:01 AM

Your depth of cut indicator is a bit different than the one on the 2030, but both should be a good indication of where the knives are at zero cut. On the 2030, it’s a pin that drops down through the main casting. I got curious, as I know that the rollers on mine sit lower than the knives – so I decided to check it out.

I placed a 1×6 on edge and cranked the table up until it just contacted the rollers, to the point where I couldn’t easily move the wood any longer. Then I used a drill bit set to measure the relative distance between the bottom of the depth indicator and the top of the wood:

A 7/64” (2.768mm) drill bit just barely kissed the depth of cut indicator. Pretty close to that 3mm you noticed on yours. There is no way to adjust the rollers, knives or depth of cut indicator, so that leaves the feed rollers.

The plain bearing does have it’s hole slightly off-center… but just barely:

The thinnest wall faces up when installed properly – although I know people who have turned them around the other way when they become worn, and haven’t had any problems – so I’m not sure how critical that might be. The only other possibility is the bearing holders. The ones on the gear side have little dimples in them, and the opposite side has little bent tabs to raise the roller a bit.

If those are damaged or bent, they could be letting the roller ride too low, but that is probably a long shot. I would make sure that they are properly lubed though, so they will move up when stock is passed under the rollers.

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - In Dog I trust... everything else is questionable

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ShanghaiPete

11 posts in 528 days


#8 posted 05-28-2017 03:38 PM

Brad – This is great! Really appreciate it. The gap looks very similar to mine, so maybe I need to crank the table up to the depth I want and just see if I can get the roller spring to compress and grab the wood. I have aligned the bearing like you recommend already so everything should be set up correctly. In addition to the offset hole, I noticed my bearing blocks are not square, they are slightly longer on one side. They fit better on the long side and are slightly loose on the short side inside the cavity.

I’ll experiment a little, but your pictures have me thinking the problem is with me not the machine! No surprise there…

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