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Forum topic by majeagle1 posted 11-23-2010 03:24 AM 1254 views 0 times favorited 13 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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majeagle1

1419 posts in 2250 days


11-23-2010 03:24 AM

I am reaching out to all of you fantastically talented and experienced woodworkers for a bit of advice on how to save these three pieces of wood that are pictured.
I got these three pieces of “highly figured quilted maple” with the hopes that I can use them ( you guessed it ) as an inlay to a few boxes that I am working on. I just don’t know how or if I can fix the cupping on them.
If anyone has an idea/solution for me, I would greatly appreciate it.

None of this wood has any oil or finish on it, I can just imagine what it will look like finished!

The first picture is cupped about 1/4”
IMG_3772-f

IMG_3771-f

The second picture is cupped about 3/16”

IMG_3770-f

IMG_3769-f

The third picture is cupped about 3/16”
IMG_3768-f

IMG_3766-f

Any and all help greatly appreciated !!!

-- Gene, Majestic Eagle Woodworks, http://majesticeagleww.etsy.com/, http://www.flickr.com/photos/majesticeagle/


13 replies so far

View cabs4less's profile

cabs4less

235 posts in 1516 days


#1 posted 11-23-2010 03:35 AM

lay them cup down outside in the morning the sun should dry that side to match the other

-- As Best I Can

View CharlieM1958's profile

CharlieM1958

15822 posts in 2972 days


#2 posted 11-23-2010 03:35 AM

Gene, I don’r know exactly what inlay design you had in mind, but my first thought was to cut your inlay to size, cup and all, and the glue/clamp process should take care of it, wouldn’t you think?

-- Charlie M. "Woodworking - patience = firewood"

View Rj's profile

Rj

1047 posts in 2385 days


#3 posted 11-23-2010 03:44 AM

Gene depending on how thick the pieces are I would try Spraying them with water then clamping them between culls or try Soaking it in a veneer softner (you can make your own or buy it ) then sandwich it between some culls with something like towels,Tshirts or paper or maybe even a Sham Wow :o) in between to help soak up the moisture making sure you change them often so mildew Etc. doesn’t develope .

-- Rj's Woodworks,San Jose & Weed Ca,

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jusfine

2280 posts in 1680 days


#4 posted 11-23-2010 03:54 AM

I would combine both of the last two ideas, cut to size then spray with water and clamp to flatten.

-- Randy "You are judged as much by the questions you ask as the answers you give..."

View majeagle1's profile

majeagle1

1419 posts in 2250 days


#5 posted 11-23-2010 04:19 AM

Thanks for all the advice so far…............ I need to clarify a couple of things…..

Charlie – I probably used the work “inlay” wrong, I am thinking maybe more of an “inset”, something like what Andy uses as an inset in his boxes, but not as thick. Two of the pieces I have are about a 1/4” thick and the other is about 1/2 thick.

Randy – I am leaning towards your suggestion on using both methods. Cutting to size and then if I feel I need to, a veneer softener to get them nice and flat.

I sure want to use as much of this as I can, it is really pretty!

-- Gene, Majestic Eagle Woodworks, http://majesticeagleww.etsy.com/, http://www.flickr.com/photos/majesticeagle/

View cabs4less's profile

cabs4less

235 posts in 1516 days


#6 posted 11-23-2010 04:40 AM

you think i kidding lol the cup sides moisture content is lower than the other leaving outside the sun will dry the wet side and the moist ground (dew) will moistin the dry side and osmosis will natyrally flatten the board but watch it cause if you leave it out to long the board will cup in the reverse directio i use this for cab door panels all the time

-- As Best I Can

View bandman's profile

bandman

79 posts in 2144 days


#7 posted 11-23-2010 04:45 AM

All good ideas, the idea of wetting them down and then securing them with clamps or stickering them
flat underneath some weight should help do the trick. Very nice figured maple, well worth the effort.

-- Phil

View Dennisgrosen's profile

Dennisgrosen

10850 posts in 1869 days


#8 posted 11-23-2010 05:19 AM

when you have flaten them then if you have a bandsaw hat is very precise set up i think you
can get two pieces veneer out of the 1/4 and 3-5 out of the ½ inches dependig on how thick
your blade cut maybee even more I think it was Stefang (Mike) in Noway that try´d to make some veneer
under 1 mm thick on his bandsaw

take care
Dennis

View Bearpie's profile

Bearpie

2592 posts in 1772 days


#9 posted 11-23-2010 05:30 AM

I am surprised no one has said there was no way to save them and to send it to them! Usually there is one in the bunch however you received some good suggestions so try that before sending it on to them! ;-) You have some lovely figured wood.

Erwin, Jacksonville, FL

-- Erwin, Jacksonville, FL

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Dennisgrosen

10850 posts in 1869 days


#10 posted 11-23-2010 06:32 AM

Erwin we shuold save them not destroy them in the pachagessystem…LOL

View EricRFP's profile

EricRFP

106 posts in 1848 days


#11 posted 11-23-2010 07:33 AM

Where did you get the wood and was it said to be “dry”?

-- Eric, NorCal www.rocklinforestproducts.com

View robert triplett's profile

robert triplett

1482 posts in 1859 days


#12 posted 11-23-2010 08:31 AM

Gene, I too have used the lay it on the wet grass in the sun method, but not for such nice wood. I did have to watch it carefully. My first thought however, was how could you use it in its cupped shape. I just had that problem with some Canarywood that cupped after I cut it into pieces for a box. I just recut the miters and now have curved sides. I would like to echo Eric’s question- where did you get it? Hope to see it in it’s finished form.
Robert

-- Robert, so much inspiration here, and so little time!

View majeagle1's profile

majeagle1

1419 posts in 2250 days


#13 posted 11-23-2010 10:56 PM

I just knew you would all come through for me !!!!!

Thanks all for your fantastic ideas!

Now this question is really stupid, but I need clarification. To me, this “board” is cupped, but when you say the cupped side, do you mean the convex side, or the concave side?? Duh…..... I would say the concave side, please let me know if I am wrong.

Autumn – could you please clarify for me: if I use the “water spritz” method on the cupped side, do I just then leave it sitting as is without clamps or pressure? Then if I use the plywood / press method you mentioned, do I moisten it on both sides? or just the cupped side?

As you can tell, this is a new area for me to venture into, but glad I have you guys to help teach me!

Again, thanks all for your much appreciated input!

-- Gene, Majestic Eagle Woodworks, http://majesticeagleww.etsy.com/, http://www.flickr.com/photos/majesticeagle/

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