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Drawers for Jewelry Armoire

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Forum topic by Bohaiboy posted 05-23-2017 04:45 PM 338 views 0 times favorited 9 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Bohaiboy

73 posts in 1631 days


05-23-2017 04:45 PM

I have several drawers for this that I need to build. I will use 1/2” poplar for sides and rear, but will half blind dovetail the faces which will be made of 3/4” birds eye maple. I will use 1/4” ply as the drawer bottom. A drawing is attached So i have several questions that am looking for suggestions. 1) for a drawer that is 1.5” tall, how far off the bottom should I make the dado for the ply bottom? 2) Should I make the front from poplar and attach the Birds Eye Maple or use the BEM for the half blind dovetail. I would save 1/2” space that way but also risk ruining the BEM if a mistake was made. TIA Oh, BTW, the drawers will get progressively taller, ii.e. 2”, 2.5”.... And there will be a large overlap of the BEM drawer to hide the front edges of the cabinet.

-- Tim, Houston, TX area


9 replies so far

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WayneC

13751 posts in 3934 days


#1 posted 05-23-2017 04:48 PM

Nice design. What design tool are you using?

-- We must guard our enthusiasm as we would our life - James Krenov

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Rich

1981 posts in 427 days


#2 posted 05-23-2017 05:16 PM

I always put my dado for the drawer bottom 1/4” from the edge. Since you’re using poplar and not plywood, you could probably get away with less, but you’re only going to add about 1/16” of depth.

Attaching the BEM to a poplar drawer box will offer easier alignment of the faces, but dovetailing the BEM to the sides looks better in my opinion.

-- No matter how much you push the envelope, it'll still be stationery.

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Bohaiboy

73 posts in 1631 days


#3 posted 05-23-2017 05:28 PM

Microsoft Visio. Only problem with it is no 3D rendering

-- Tim, Houston, TX area

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Bohaiboy

73 posts in 1631 days


#4 posted 05-23-2017 05:30 PM

Ah, one question I forgot to ask, for front drawer that is 3/4”, I assume the rabbit needs to be 1/2” to accommodate the 1/2” poplar sides, correct?

-- Tim, Houston, TX area

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Bohaiboy

73 posts in 1631 days


#5 posted 05-23-2017 05:31 PM

One more, wooden slides for the drawers or mechanical full extension?

-- Tim, Houston, TX area

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HokieKen

4513 posts in 976 days


#6 posted 05-23-2017 05:48 PM

If it were me, I’d cut the 1/2 blinds into the BEM rather than attaching it to poplar. For the rabbet depth, it depends on how you’re cutting the joints. I use a PC jig. Doing it with the jig and router, the depth depends on the diameter and angle of the cutter.

For lightweight drawers like a jewelry cabinet, I’d go with wooden slides. Looks nicer and is cheaper. No need for mechanical slides with that little load.

-- Kenny, SW VA, Go Hokies!!!

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Bohaiboy

73 posts in 1631 days


#7 posted 05-23-2017 06:27 PM

So since the cabinet carcass will be 3/4” and the drawer sides 1/2”, for the drawer slides I assume I would cut a dado into the carcass vs the drawer, like this: What is teh optimal spacing of the drawers to the sides and the optimal slide spacing/size

-- Tim, Houston, TX area

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JADobson

921 posts in 1948 days


#8 posted 05-23-2017 09:18 PM

How big is armoire overall? Your boards seem a bit thick to me. A drawer 1 1/2” tall will look very clunky with a 3/4” thick front. On something that size, unless it is very wide I’d use no more than 3/8” thick front with 1/4” sides and back.

-- No craft is very far from the line beyond which is magic. -- Lord Dunsany

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Bohaiboy

73 posts in 1631 days


#9 posted 05-23-2017 09:57 PM

So the chest is in the Krenov Style. It will be approx 15” wide, The cabinet portion will be about 24” and the legs 30”. Here is an earlier drawing that I havent updated but it gives an idea. Depth of drawers 10”

-- Tim, Houston, TX area

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