Would you please advise me on this topic?
I would like to darken the chairs more, already varnished 1 month ago.
I applied two coats of WATERLOX over some chairs.
After a month, looking at the chairs, I wish the finishh was darker, from a GOLDEN BROWN TO A MEDIUM BROWN.
Is there anything you recommend without redoing the whole thing from scratch?
I wonder if there is stain powder I could add to mix into new Waterlox varnish coat.
Thank you very much for your kindness!
Julian
Perhaps spray toner. I use this to tweak the color if I am trying to match something… but I usually put a clear coat over it. Comes in many colors. But really for 'tweaking the color'
Wow, Waterlox Original is about the darkest varnish available. The toner idea would be the easiest and quickest solution, but you would be best off setting up a piece of scrap with the Waterlox on it, and test it out first. The varnish will likely shift over time, getting even darker (the wood might as well) but you may not want to wait for that, it may take over a year.
1. Glazing is the application of gel stain over a topcoat. Wipe off until you see the desired color. Let dry fully and apply another topcoat like lacquer, poly, or shellac.
The risk with gel stain is that it might not wipe off uniformly. It can look streaky if you're not careful.
2. Toner is a colorant added to the topcoat. I use universal tint from the paint store, but some folks use wood dye. Each additional coat adds more color.
The risk with toner is if you get a drip, sag, or run it will create a dark spot where the pigment is concentrated. Toning is a very difficult to master, and although I can achieve professional results, it's my last resort.
Finally toner should only be applied with spray equipment.
This is wonderful news!
Thank you so much for helping me!
If I apply gell stain, I should probably let it dry 3 days prior to applying Waterlox Tung Oil Varnish; is this right?
Let the gel stain dry fully. Usually this only takes 24 hours. I don't have any experience with Waterlox as a topcoat, I've only used lacquer, poly, or shellac. Try it on a test board first to make sure you get the look you want. Apply your original finish recipe, then glaze, and topcoat with Waterlox to see how those particular finishes behave together. My gut reaction is that it would work fine. Read the instructions on the Waterlox label as well.
I just tried JAVA GEL STAIN now.
BROWN MAHOGANY JAVA GEL STAIN.
I scuffed the surface well with the maroon synthetic scuff pads.
Then applied JAVA GEL STAIN over old varnish which I applied last month.
I used foam brush and went cross grain, then long stoked with the grain.
It went on WONDERFUL and even without any streaks.
It just toned the golden brown look to a walnut brown.
I will wait 3 days, then I will apply a top coat of Waterlox Varnish.
I called WATERLOX COMPANY and they said to make sure I wait 72 hours or 3 days to avoid reactivating the stain which will cause it to pull off and look streaky.
THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR ALL THE ADVICE!!!
God bless you all !
Julian
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