Rikon 18" bandsaw vibration

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Forum topic by sharpendww posted 11-18-2010 06:48 PM 2685 views 0 times favorited 6 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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8 posts in 2792 days

11-18-2010 06:48 PM

Just got a new Rikon 18” bandsaw and am a little disappointed in how much it vibrates. Not sure if there’s a problem or if my expectations were too high. I’ll admit I’m totally new to setting up a bandsaw and still have lots of stuff to research but what’s an acceptable amount of vibration? I have followed the directions in the manual and have the stock blade on until a new one arrives in a few days.
So what are some indicators I should be looking at?

6 replies so far

View lilredweldingrod's profile


2496 posts in 3129 days

#1 posted 11-18-2010 07:23 PM

You can get a lot of vibration from the belt. I changed mine to to the link belt. Big help.
Next remove the blade and mark the bottom of the wheels. Spin them by hand and see if they always come to rest at the same spot. If they do then the wheel is out of balance. I use copper wire to balance mine. Once balanced I coat the wire in epoxy glue to be sure it stays put.
To my knowledge that is the only places to cause vibration. Hope this helps. Rand

View PurpLev's profile


8536 posts in 3671 days

#2 posted 11-18-2010 07:29 PM

take off the blade, run the saw – still vibration? = coming from the motor/belt/lower wheel assembly. No vibration? = virbration is from the blade, or upper wheel assembly.

turn upper wheel by hand (no blade on) is it spinning quietly and true? than the problem is the blade. is it tentioned properly? are the roller bearings coming in contact with it? (they shouldn’t under no load operation)

-- ㊍ When in doubt - There is no doubt - Go the safer route.

View Eric_S's profile


1565 posts in 3218 days

#3 posted 11-18-2010 07:29 PM

Are your wheels coplanar? Take a long straight edge and make sure to touch the top and bottom of the bottom wheel and the top and bottom of the top wheel at the same time. Rotate the wheel a bit as well. If its not always touching all 4 points then your wheels aren’t correctly aligned and will create additional vibration. Also, check the tension of the blade.

-- - Eric Noblesville, IN

View Steve Peterson's profile

Steve Peterson

377 posts in 3105 days

#4 posted 11-18-2010 09:03 PM

I bought a used bandsaw from CL that was at a really good price, but needed tires. There was no way to fully test the saw, yet I bought it anyway because of the price.

It used to vibrate more than expected after putting tires on it. Zero vibration with just the motor and lower wheel turning. Put a blade on it and the vibration is back. The top wheel was slightly out of balance. I put several wraps of the good aluminum foil type duct tape on one of the spokes. I kept adding more tape until the wheel was statically balanced. It ended up at about 1/16” thick and 2” wide. The vibration is completely gone and I am now really happy with the saw.

-- Steve

View sharpendww's profile


8 posts in 2792 days

#5 posted 11-20-2010 03:06 AM

I went through the suggestions given above and also changed out the stock blade. The wheels were balanced, top wheel was quiet and smooth w/o the blade and the tracking is fine when I installed the new blade. I think the remaining vibration might be coming from the belt and a very “bendy” HTC 3000 mobile base. The saw still will not pass the “nickel test.” Is that really a concern? Still need to try resawing something. Thanks for the help!


View barryvabeach's profile


159 posts in 3066 days

#6 posted 11-20-2010 05:32 AM

Josh, not sure I understand you – you said the top wheel was quiet without the blade, typically, the bottom wheel is driven by the motor, so with the blade off, the top wheel shouldn’t be spinning. I use Bob Vaughan’s method
though I use spare change and duct tape , and can get a bandsaw pretty smooth – easily pass the nickel test. I switched the belt to a link belt and it is definitely smoother, though certainly not required.

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