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Forum topic by sreilly24590 posted 05-18-2017 01:51 AM 895 views 0 times favorited 17 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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sreilly24590

53 posts in 129 days


05-18-2017 01:51 AM

I’m looking for parts availability for an old 80’s Powermatic 8” model 60 jointer and so far just locating replacement blades has proven far harder than I thought it would be. I’m looking at this jointer and the asking price is $1,200 but I thought it would be prudent to look at the most normal replacement parts. If blades are this hard to find what else is likely to come back and bite me.

Any suggestions?

-- Steve, Virginia


17 replies so far

View TungOil's profile (online now)

TungOil

416 posts in 192 days


#1 posted 05-18-2017 02:17 AM

have you called Powermatic tech support? I find they are pretty good. I was looking at a used model 60 a few months ago- it had straight knives and I wanted a helical head, they had the assembly in stock ready to ship.

-- The optimist says "the glass is half full". The pessimist says "the glass is half empty". The engineer says "the glass is twice as big as it needs to be"

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sreilly24590

53 posts in 129 days


#2 posted 05-18-2017 02:20 AM

No I haven’t, as I just started looking this evening and am suppose to look at the jointer tomorrow morning. As you were looking a short while ago was it in good shape and the price?

-- Steve, Virginia

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MrUnix

5437 posts in 1896 days


#3 posted 05-18-2017 02:22 AM

If blades are this hard to find what else is likely to come back and bite me.
Any suggestions?
- sreilly24590

Jointer knives are pretty generic… you can get a set from Powermatic directly, or any number of aftermarket places. Most everything else is generic hardware store stuff, or possibly mail-order form Grainger, McMaster Carr, etc… For machine specific parts, you can find stuff on the bay and at the BOYD section over at OWWM.

Cheers,
Brad

PS: $1200 is way too high IMO

-- Brad in FL - In Dog I trust... everything else is questionable

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TungOil

416 posts in 192 days


#4 posted 05-18-2017 02:28 AM

well, it’s hard to say what’s a good price in your area might not be good in mine (eastern PA). But as a reference point the model 60 I was looking at was very lightly use and just a few years old- a very nice machine, and it sold for $750. in less than 24 hrs. someone got a good deal.

-- The optimist says "the glass is half full". The pessimist says "the glass is half empty". The engineer says "the glass is twice as big as it needs to be"

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sreilly24590

53 posts in 129 days


#5 posted 05-18-2017 02:57 AM

Brad,

I guess using the Powermatic part number was my blunder. I had assumed that it would be crossed referenced and I would get hits. I agree that the price seems high. I was told the owner bought it from a friends estate sale after he bought it new, used it only occasionally, and then passed away. This was early-mid 1980’s. The new owner used it lightly in his part-time cabinet shop. That’s all I know about it for now. I’ll see it tomorrow morning around 10am and should know more then.

TungOil,

I’m told this is an old American made 80’s unit. Finding a price point isn’t well documented from what I’ve found. I’m told the older units were better made but I have no idea.

Thanks for the replies guys.

-- Steve, Virginia

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magaoitin

223 posts in 646 days


#6 posted 05-18-2017 06:22 PM

Mid 80’ isn’t an “Old” Powermatic, that’s practically brand new compared to mine.

I picked up an old green machine, Model 60 at an auction just over a year ago for under $300.

$1200 for a used Powermatic would be tough for me to do. even though it is good ‘ol American made, you can get a brand new Grizzly 8” joiner with a Shelix cutter for $1350 (plus $150 for shipping)

Used equipment is in the eye (and wallet) of the beholder. I probably wouldn’t go over $800 for a mid ‘80’s Model 60 with straight blades. However $1200-$1300 seems to be the going price for most that I have seen over the past year.

Just be cautious of bad bearings in the cutter head. Hopefully you can turn it on and hear it run when you go over to see it.

-- Jeff ~ Tacoma Wa.

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sreilly24590

53 posts in 129 days


#7 posted 05-18-2017 07:17 PM

I did get there this morning and have to say it’s in very good condition. I inspected the blades and found some small nicks but expected to need replacements anyway. I ran a 7” cedar board through several times and it did a good job of planning the board. Then ran a 2” thick oak board on the edge and it never blinked. I did discover the motor isn’t a 2 HP but rather a 1.5 HP Baldor motor which is a brand I have a very high regard for. Currently wired as 220v with a 5.9 amp draw but could be rewired to 110v if I needed to. Was sure how to check the cutter head bearings but the assembly made no obvious odd noises while running or had any side to side motion when off.I used a 4’ straight edge with the infeed side at 0” and it was perfectly level. I made an offer of $900 and told him I would let him know by the week-end after doing a bit more research. I need to see what baldes will cost me and probably a good belt replacement. It’s a single belt drive. I’d like to add a mobile base as well if I can find a good one. Suggestions on where to find good replacement knives?

-- Steve, Virginia

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TungOil

416 posts in 192 days


#8 posted 05-18-2017 08:12 PM

You can get them sharpened for about $25/set

-- The optimist says "the glass is half full". The pessimist says "the glass is half empty". The engineer says "the glass is twice as big as it needs to be"

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MrUnix

5437 posts in 1896 days


#9 posted 05-18-2017 09:53 PM

The first thing I would do with that machine is replace the bearings… cheap and easy insurance to prevent potential future damage. Motor bearings would be a good idea as well. They do have a shelf life, even sitting idle – and that machine is 30+ years old, so they are probably well on their way out. Besides blades and belts, bearings are about the only other maintenance item on that machine.

As for the knives; based on your description of usage, there should be plenty of life left in them. They can be sharpened over and over again until they are just too short to engage the gibs. Around here, it’s about $1 an inch to sharpen… some areas of the country are more, some less. Of course, having a spare set ready to go is always a good idea ;-)

Also, the knife dimensions are not really critical. The spec for that machine appears to be 8-1/8” X 11/16” X 1/8”. However, an 8” X 5/8” X 1/8” would work as well, and many are labeled as being applicable for the PM60 – such as this set for $37 by american national knife, or this Freud C441 set for about $33 on Amazon.

For the belt… apparently is just a pretty common 4L540 v-belt, which should cost you less than $10.

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - In Dog I trust... everything else is questionable

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sreilly24590

53 posts in 129 days


#10 posted 05-19-2017 09:11 PM

Thanks Brad,

This thread has been a great help to me. I did call Powermatic and they gave me a warm fuzzy feeling about making this deal. Looks like most all parts I would possibly need are still available so that takes a load off my mind. The tech was easy to converse with and very patient. I think I’ll order the new set of blades and install them when they arrive sending the old ones off for sharpening in the meantime.

After watching a very informative video on setup and adjustments it occurred to me I’ll need to get a good straight edge. The one used in the video was about $100 but I found one for 1/2 that from Taylor Tools. The unit is the Taytools 50” Aluminum Straight Edge for $44.90 including shipping. The reviews I see on Amazon seem to show most use it as a straight edge as a tool (like router) guide so I’m not sure if this is suitable for setting jointer tables to be coplanned.

-- Steve, Virginia

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sreilly24590

53 posts in 129 days


#11 posted 05-20-2017 12:13 AM

Brad I also took to heart the suggestion of replacing the bearings and think that’s an excellent idea since I’ll be putting in new knives anyway and taking the assembly loose is a matter of taking the fence off and 2 bolts loose. Might just as well make it all in one job. I will keep the idea of a helical head on the table as that saves a ton of time later after I get some good use on the new blades and the time to replace them comes along, most likely a good way down the road. But I’ll keep an eye on the cost and that option open. I’m looking forward to using a good quality jointer and this 8” wasn’t what I was originally looking for but glad it came along. Not sure the 6” would have sufficed for too long before I got the bug. Most of my hardwoods fall in the 3-8” range anyway so it should be a good fit.

Thanks again for all the replies and suggestions.

-- Steve, Virginia

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TungOil

416 posts in 192 days


#12 posted 05-20-2017 01:09 AM

Brace yourself- when I priced the helical head a few months ago it was about $875. The longer beds on the 8” are a great feature when jointing long boards. I think you will be very happy with that machine after you get it tuned up.

-- The optimist says "the glass is half full". The pessimist says "the glass is half empty". The engineer says "the glass is twice as big as it needs to be"

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sreilly24590

53 posts in 129 days


#13 posted 05-20-2017 01:16 AM

I was looking at these thinking it might be close in cost but I need to check the bearing size. I’m told, by the Powermatic tech, if the bearing will fit the new assembly it would work. This is what I was looking at https://shelixheads.com/SHELIX-heads_for_Jointers/SHELIX_Heads_for_Jointers_by_POWERMATIC

-- Steve, Virginia

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sreilly24590

53 posts in 129 days


#14 posted 05-24-2017 04:14 AM

So this past Sunday morning I went and picked up the jointer and brought it to its new home. It will need some rust removal and cleaning up. Feel free to advise me on your best methods as I haven’t done this in a long while. I have posted pictures of this jointer on my astronomy website here Look at the lower section of the pictures and you’ll see the jointer pics. I also received the 50” aluminum straight edge to check the tables although I admit I found the procedure to set the tables to be coplanar a bit murky at best. The tech at Powermatic did send me the 1999 manual that seems to be correct. I have a set of knives and bearings coming to replace the installed set. The only clearer information I have on the coplanar process if from a video I downloaded from the Woodworker Whisperer. Any additional information from those who have done this would be greatly appreciated. I’d like to be sure I have this setup as well as possible for best results. Looking forward to making more sawdust soon.

Thanks,
Steve

-- Steve, Virginia

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TheFridge

7272 posts in 1183 days


#15 posted 05-24-2017 01:50 PM

FYI 436$ for a shelix head if you were ever to consider it. I have one on a jet 8”. It’s awesome.

-- Shooting down the walls of heartache. Bang bang. I am. The warrior.

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