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| Forum topic by WoodScrap | posted 944 days ago | 5414 views | 0 times favorited | 11 replies | ![]() |
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944 days ago |
I’m wiring a new shop and have a question regarding using 3 conductor vs. 4 conductor wire for the 220V circuits. Every 220V machine I have ever purchased (some recent) recommend using either a 3 prong twist lock or 3 prong spade plugs. Even new machines are recommending this type plug. I’m being told that the code is electrical code is changing and that soon all machines will reuire 4 prong plugs. I can run 4 wire just as easy as 3 but would seem to indicate I would need to rewire all my current euipment as well. This is not hard but I wonder about the logic to do so. When I look at auto switches and remote switches they are all 3 prong as well. I’m leaning towards just running the 4 conductor wire but only using 3 wires for now. I can then replace outlets (and rewire the breakers) should that become a code issue in the future. Does this make sense or should I just bite the bullet now and rewire everything for 4 conductor? Appreciate your thoughts. Thanks, -- Rick -Tulsa |
11 replies so far
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#1 posted 944 days ago |
I would think that if the code is not in effect at this time, you would be “grandfathered” if you wire with 3 conductor. -- Don't rollerskate in a buffalo herd |
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#2 posted 944 days ago |
If its wired now, inspected and signed off on, there will not be a code issue in the future. In Georgia anyway. |
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#3 posted 944 days ago |
Speak with your local electrical code official. He may have an issue running four wire and not hooking it up to the panel. Since he/she has to sign off on the work you might as well find out what he will sign off on before you do the work. -- Jack T, John 3:16 "For God so loved the world that he gave his only Son, so that everyone who believes in him might not perish but might have eternal life." |
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#4 posted 944 days ago |
Right on Jack -- Don't rollerskate in a buffalo herd |
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#5 posted 944 days ago |
I would go ahead and run the 4 conductor. Leave the neutral in the box unconnected for now if your equipment only requires 2 hots and a ground. At some point in the future the neurtal will be there is you need it. I had a rather interesting discussion with the state the other day about range wiring on existing circuits. Who knows what they will come up with next? The code book is 2x as big as it was 40 years ago, :-(( They occasionally write code ignoring the fact there is no possible way to comply. ;-) -- "some old things are lovely, warm still with life ... of the forgotten men who made them." - D.H. Lawrence |
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#6 posted 944 days ago |
the logic for this change is coming from appliance manufacturers. by adding the 4th wire (neutral), they can get 110V for the controls without a transformer. i heard they pushed through this code change to lower their component costs. |
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#7 posted 944 days ago |
It was put in for household appliances such as ranges sevreral changes back. Not sure how long it was, but late 80s. 120 volt electronics is the bottom line. -- "some old things are lovely, warm still with life ... of the forgotten men who made them." - D.H. Lawrence |
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#8 posted 944 days ago |
Code or not, I have run mine with 4 wire. I ran it all the way to the switch (new wire) and then grounded the table of my saw. I lost a good friend to a 220v shock. I believe in the ground line. -- chas -- looking for Serta sponsorship to go Pro... |
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#9 posted 944 days ago |
The older you get, them susceptible you get to electrical shock. Problem is heart in ventricular fibrillation. Older hearts are weaker than young ones. Working in a shop, the chances of shock for hand to hand vs hand to foot is higher. The worse you can get is across the heart. Well, ear to ear is worst ;-)) but what are the odds of that? Current first aide info for electrical shock is to spend 24 hrs in the hosp for observation. The heart can go into ventricular fibrillation that long after the fact. The bottom line is you wouldn’t drive without brakes would you? The ground is the brakes for the electrical systems that trips the breaker and maintains safe voltage reference between conductive (metal) surfaces. Not all faults are overloads; therefore, use ground fault interrupters on your equipment. -- "some old things are lovely, warm still with life ... of the forgotten men who made them." - D.H. Lawrence |
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#10 posted 943 days ago |
this the difference between one and three phases When I built my shop I wanted 3 phases. the power company told OK no problem, it will cost you only $12000 to bring a line from the end of the block. phases is much much better, run stuff at 380 volts or 408 even 220 but 3 phases is much more efficient -- Bert |
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#11 posted 943 days ago |
I ran 4 wires to be safe, and figured that I didn’t want to redo it on the future if I needed it for a machine. Hot tubs for example, some require a 3 wire and some a 4 wire run. I wasn’t sure what type I was going to buy and the fact that it will get replaced, as nothing last for ever these days. I ran a 4 wire to it to be safe. Better to be Proactive than Reactive. Or as I constantly have to remind myself of something my Grandma said, “Lazy people do things twice.” like throwing something to the trash can and missing & having to get up and put it in. She would alway get on me about that. LOL Not saying your lazy, talking about me in this case LOL Good luck! -- Ken, "Everyday above ground is a good day!" |
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