LumberJocks

Problem cutting band saw box

  • Advertise with us

« back to Woodworking Skill Share forum

Forum topic by Anthony Finelli posted 11-16-2010 05:26 PM 12953 views 0 times favorited 17 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View Anthony Finelli's profile

Anthony Finelli

52 posts in 2246 days


11-16-2010 05:26 PM

I was watching stevin marin’s band saw box video and decided to build one. I am using a 1/4” blade (original blade that came with the band saw but its brand new) much like the one he uses in his video but I am having a difficult time cutting the round corners of the drawer itself. As I make my way up to the first corner the blade seems to drift and will not make the corner. I am not sure if I am going to fast, if my blade tension is to loose or if it is just technique. I have never really used a band saw for this type of work, I usually use it to split logs in half or resaw. I have a ton of pine 1×8 pieces to practice with before I use some nice red cedar so…...can anyone help me with this problem, I plan on buying a 1/8” blade soon but I would like to practice and figure out what I am doing wrong first….Steve made it look so easy and I guess i’m just getting frustrated with my technique, so if anyone can help with technique suggestions etc.. I would greatly appreciate it.

-- Salem, New York "Find something you love to do and you will never have to work another day of your life"


17 replies so far

View Gene Howe's profile

Gene Howe

8257 posts in 2894 days


#1 posted 11-16-2010 05:41 PM

Tighten the blade a little, try it, see if it makes a difference. Then, if it does, tighten a little more till you can make the turns.
You do know that you can barely turn 1/2” radius with a 1/4” blade?
I tighten by sound of the twang it makes when I pluck the blade. I only use the saw’s scale to get close. It ain’t all that accurate.
Also, mine’s a 3 TPI. More teeth make turns a little more difficult.

-- Gene 'The true soldier fights not because he hates what is in front of him, but because he loves what is behind him.' G. K. Chesterton

View patron's profile

patron

13538 posts in 2807 days


#2 posted 11-16-2010 06:07 PM

get a timberwolf blade
the tin ones that come with the saws are garbage
dull fast
and don’t really cut good

the difference is
like night and day

-- david - only thru kindness can this world be whole . If we don't succeed we run the risk of failure. Dan Quayle

View Scott Bryan's profile

Scott Bryan

27251 posts in 3287 days


#3 posted 11-16-2010 10:50 PM

I agree with David’s comment. The blades that come with bandsaws, despite being new, are poor quality at best. A Timberwolf or Woodslicer blade will help solve a lot of these problems.

-- Challenges are what make life interesting; overcoming them is what makes life meaningful- Joshua Marine

View Elizabeth's profile

Elizabeth

814 posts in 2609 days


#4 posted 11-16-2010 11:58 PM

I have a bandsaw box blade question too:

On the advice of my local woodworking supply shop (though the salesman did admit that he doesn’t make bandsaw boxes) I got an Olson 3/16” 4 TPI skip tooth blade. It’s the only blade I own other than the 3/8” that came with my saw.

When I cut a prototype the kerf seemed really wide. Is this a trait of skiptooth blades? Should I be using a different one for boxes?

View hairy's profile

hairy

2384 posts in 2998 days


#5 posted 11-17-2010 12:01 AM

I always round off the back side of the blade. It helps in a curve. I just a hold a file against the blade while its running.

-- stay thirsty my friends...

View Gene Howe's profile

Gene Howe

8257 posts in 2894 days


#6 posted 11-17-2010 12:30 AM

Elizabeth,
It’s possible that the set is too wide. Olsen blades are normally .025 thick, as are most other blades of that size. So, set could be the cause.

Here is a method to tell if your set is correct. From Suffolk Machinery.

“Appropriate set is when you have a mixture of 65%-70% saw dust and 30%-35% air in the space between the body of the band and the wood you are cutting. The SIGN you are looking for, when you are running appropriate set, IS A GOOD 80%-85% SAW DUST EJECTION FROM THE CUT! If you are running too much set for the mass or thickness of the wood, you have too much air and not enough saw dust. You will leave EXCESSIVE loose saw dust and most likely it will be accompanied by tooth marks. If you are running under set, you will have no air flow pulling the saw dust out…The SIGN for this is excessive HOT packed down saw dust. This is the most damaging thing you can do to a band. You will have short cutting times and premature band breakage. The saw dust should be warm to the touch, not hot or cold. One last thing, a band that is excessively under set will cut in a wavy motion, and a band that has an improper HOOK ANGLE and is UNDER SET will cut a bow across the board every time!”

-- Gene 'The true soldier fights not because he hates what is in front of him, but because he loves what is behind him.' G. K. Chesterton

View Elizabeth's profile

Elizabeth

814 posts in 2609 days


#7 posted 11-17-2010 01:37 AM

Hi Gene,

I’m new to bandsaws and I don’t know what set is or how to, um, set it. Is set something that I can adjust myself? I don’t have any specialised tools.

Looks like Olson blades of this type have a “raker” set..

View wiswood2's profile

wiswood2

1138 posts in 3162 days


#8 posted 11-17-2010 02:08 AM

I use a 3/16th 6 tooth and a 1/4 in 15 tooth olson,I have no trobble turning a 1/2 rad. the 15 tooth cuts a lot smother, but not as fast. the 6 tooth cuts real fast but leaves saw marks.
Chuck

-- Chuck, wiswood2 www.wisconsinwoodchuck.com

View Anthony Finelli's profile

Anthony Finelli

52 posts in 2246 days


#9 posted 11-17-2010 10:51 PM

Thank you all for the advice, looks like im buying a new blade!

-- Salem, New York "Find something you love to do and you will never have to work another day of your life"

View huff's profile

huff

2828 posts in 2751 days


#10 posted 11-17-2010 11:25 PM

Anthony, Sounds like you’re on the right track. (buying a new blade). I agree with David and Scott when it comes to bandsaw blades. Both the Timberwolf and Woodslicer are good quality blades. For Bandsaw boxes, I personally like using a 3/16” blade, 6tpi., but always keep a 1/4” on hand too. When you get your new blade, make sure your wheels are clean before you install your new blade. Adjust your tension and that is something you should play with a little. Make sure your guides (upper and lower) are adjusted properly. When you are practicing on some scrap wood, notice when you start cutting a curve, make sure your forward pressure when pushing your wood is being applied directly to the front of the blade. We have a tendency to push a little from the side, which flexes the blade and it will want to wonder or drift. This is really noticable when you are doing a bandsaw box, working with thicker woods. Good luck and let us know how you make out.

-- John @ http://www.thehuffordfurnituregroup.com

View Anthony Finelli's profile

Anthony Finelli

52 posts in 2246 days


#11 posted 11-17-2010 11:43 PM

great advice huff, that is exactly what im doing, i was pushing from the side to much….ill keep that in mind next time!

-- Salem, New York "Find something you love to do and you will never have to work another day of your life"

View Gene Howe's profile

Gene Howe

8257 posts in 2894 days


#12 posted 11-18-2010 12:59 AM

Elizabeth,
Check your PMs

-- Gene 'The true soldier fights not because he hates what is in front of him, but because he loves what is behind him.' G. K. Chesterton

View Steven H's profile

Steven H

1117 posts in 2526 days


#13 posted 11-18-2010 02:44 AM

What other have said, Get a new blade and let the blade do it;s work.

View Kathy's profile

Kathy

210 posts in 2387 days


#14 posted 11-18-2010 01:47 PM

A new blade does make a huge difference but, this is why I love band saw boxes. The drawers and the box can really be any shape at all. If it doesn’t got on the line you drew—just go with it!! LOL You get some interesting shapes.

-- curious woodworker

View kayakdude's profile

kayakdude

97 posts in 2242 days


#15 posted 01-24-2011 12:51 AM

ilike useing 3/16 blade with 10 tpi thats what will work best for you i make boxes all the time.i also use timber wolf blades there night and day diffnents . thy that and let me know

-- kayakdude

showing 1 through 15 of 17 replies

Have your say...

You must be signed in to reply.

DISCLAIMER: Any posts on LJ are posted by individuals acting in their own right and do not necessarily reflect the views of LJ. LJ will not be held liable for the actions of any user.

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics

HomeRefurbers.com